Team Associated TC4
#6121
Tech Lord
iTrader: (13)
about using the aluminum screws,remember,your are roll forming threads into a very abrasive composite.heat is the problem.the aluminum expands and the plastic heats up and they pretty much mend themselves together.if you put a little bit of black grease on the threads of the screw it will keep them from siezing and you will have no problems.i would recomend using steel or titanium screws for mounting the hinge pin blocks because the aluminum screws just do not have the sheer strength to withstand the load of that area.everywhere else in the car they will be ok though.
#6122
I put in the lightened (plastic) outdrives into my TC4 to lighten it up from the lightened steel outdrives. I adjusted them to the factory 1/2 turn out. They felt alittle too tight.They melted into the gear in 2 races. Do any of you run the plastic outdrives and what setting do you have success with? Also does anyone have success running them with 19 turns? I want to loosen them up but I heard they spin the rings if it isnt tight and I didnt want to toast them so early.
#6124
TC4
Hey yall,i have a team TC4 that i updated with a BMI chassis, I ordered the FT shock towers from AE but they did't come with the mounts,my question is does any one have a FTTC4 that they could give me the pt # for the shock tower mounts from your book.Thanks!
#6125
Steering Servo - What steering servo should I install in my FT TC4? What amount of torque is needed (or used by racers)? What Speed, .06 sec, .1 sec, .15 sec etc.?
What would be best?
Still trying to locate Ti screws kits for the FT TC4 other than Lunsford - any ideas?
Bodies - should I be purchasing a 190mm or 200 mm body for the TC4?
Thank you,
K
What would be best?
Still trying to locate Ti screws kits for the FT TC4 other than Lunsford - any ideas?
Bodies - should I be purchasing a 190mm or 200 mm body for the TC4?
Thank you,
K
Last edited by frog racing; 09-04-2005 at 11:26 AM.
#6126
FROG: You need a 190mm body. Your servo should be a high quality one. Futaba, Airtronics, KO, etc, makes great ones. There are other smaller companies that make servos of comprable speed and torque, but not quality. In this hobby, the one thing you dont want to skimp on is electronics. Im not saying buy a 500$ servo, but dont buy a 50$ servo that will break and need to be replaced, costing you more in the longrun. I personally run Airtronics 94357 servos, have been more than pleased, and can be found new for 100$. I would say a servo no slower than .10 in transit time, and no less than 90 oz of torque. Metal gears are a plus, as the servo savers in the TC3/4 rarely work right. To get them to work well, you lose steering input and control. I actually install an AE diff spring in my steering kit in place of the stock spring, and just torque it down completely. However, i dont hit alot of stuff either.
- DaveW
- DaveW
#6127
All right, I just bought a TC4 FT. Coming from a Losi and no TC3 experience, can anyone offer a good baseline carpet setup for foams.
Much appreciated.
Much appreciated.
#6128
JEEL:
Front-
Shocks: #2 piston, 50wt oil, purple spring, #2 hole on the tower (from inside), inside on the arm
Caster: 2 degrees, use Losi XXX-S steering blocks
Bumpsteer: Make the steering turnbuckle level with the suspension arm at rideheight, add/remove washers/change ballstuds to do so
Ackerman: Stock
Hingepin mounts: Triangle, circle, level, one #2 shim under each mount
Arm spacing: All washers in front of the arm
Camber turnbuckle: Inside hole on supports, no washers, black ballstud - silver ballstud on the caster block
Camber: -2 degree, adjust for tire wear
Anti-roll bar: .055, smallest in the kit, adjusted all the way out
Diff: Lightweight steel (for weight), tightened, backed off 1/8 turn
Tires: Jaco Double Pink/Or, 57mm diameter
Ride height: Slightly under 5mm
Droop: I measure droop in the center of either end of the car, with the car ready to run minus the body. If i have 5mm of rideheight in the front when measured on the gauge, then i add .5mm of chassis uptravel from ride height. So, with the droop figured in, rideheight would be 5.5mm with the chassis lifted in the front, and the tires still touching. I do it this way, because it can be duplicated with any shim/tire combo with greater accuracy than with the plastic droop gauge. 5.5mm total, .5mm uptravel from ride height
Rear-
Shocks: #2 piston, 45wt oil, purple spring, #3 hole on the tower (from inside), inside on the arm.
Hub: Losi XXX-S 0 degree, non-offset hub, inside hole
Rear toe: circle block mount, and stock X mount (3.0)
Hingepin mounts: Circle mount front, #3 shim - X mount rear, #2 shim
Arm spacing: All washers in front of the arm
Camber turnbuckle: Inside hole on supports, no washers, black ballstud - silver ballstud on the outer hub
Camber: -1.5 degree, adjust for tire wear
Anti-roll bar: .055, smallest in the kit, adjusted all the way out
Diff: Plastic diff, tightened, backed off a little less than 1/2.
Tires: Jaco Double Pink, 57mm diameter
Ride height: 5mm
Droop: 6.5mm total, 1.5mm uptravel from ride height
General-
Battery front, transmitter steering dual rate no higher than 100%, and should be best around the low 90's. Transmitter steering EPA set not to bind the servo. Sauce full tire f/r, wipe before run. The car should rotate well, drive smooth, and wear the tires evenly, both when compared f/r and across the width of the tire. This setup works best with stock, and needs a little tweaking for 19T. I have yet to test for mod. if the car turns too agressively through the entire corner, change the shim under the rear X block to #3, readjust droop, etc. The rest should be small changes for preference.
- DaveW
Front-
Shocks: #2 piston, 50wt oil, purple spring, #2 hole on the tower (from inside), inside on the arm
Caster: 2 degrees, use Losi XXX-S steering blocks
Bumpsteer: Make the steering turnbuckle level with the suspension arm at rideheight, add/remove washers/change ballstuds to do so
Ackerman: Stock
Hingepin mounts: Triangle, circle, level, one #2 shim under each mount
Arm spacing: All washers in front of the arm
Camber turnbuckle: Inside hole on supports, no washers, black ballstud - silver ballstud on the caster block
Camber: -2 degree, adjust for tire wear
Anti-roll bar: .055, smallest in the kit, adjusted all the way out
Diff: Lightweight steel (for weight), tightened, backed off 1/8 turn
Tires: Jaco Double Pink/Or, 57mm diameter
Ride height: Slightly under 5mm
Droop: I measure droop in the center of either end of the car, with the car ready to run minus the body. If i have 5mm of rideheight in the front when measured on the gauge, then i add .5mm of chassis uptravel from ride height. So, with the droop figured in, rideheight would be 5.5mm with the chassis lifted in the front, and the tires still touching. I do it this way, because it can be duplicated with any shim/tire combo with greater accuracy than with the plastic droop gauge. 5.5mm total, .5mm uptravel from ride height
Rear-
Shocks: #2 piston, 45wt oil, purple spring, #3 hole on the tower (from inside), inside on the arm.
Hub: Losi XXX-S 0 degree, non-offset hub, inside hole
Rear toe: circle block mount, and stock X mount (3.0)
Hingepin mounts: Circle mount front, #3 shim - X mount rear, #2 shim
Arm spacing: All washers in front of the arm
Camber turnbuckle: Inside hole on supports, no washers, black ballstud - silver ballstud on the outer hub
Camber: -1.5 degree, adjust for tire wear
Anti-roll bar: .055, smallest in the kit, adjusted all the way out
Diff: Plastic diff, tightened, backed off a little less than 1/2.
Tires: Jaco Double Pink, 57mm diameter
Ride height: 5mm
Droop: 6.5mm total, 1.5mm uptravel from ride height
General-
Battery front, transmitter steering dual rate no higher than 100%, and should be best around the low 90's. Transmitter steering EPA set not to bind the servo. Sauce full tire f/r, wipe before run. The car should rotate well, drive smooth, and wear the tires evenly, both when compared f/r and across the width of the tire. This setup works best with stock, and needs a little tweaking for 19T. I have yet to test for mod. if the car turns too agressively through the entire corner, change the shim under the rear X block to #3, readjust droop, etc. The rest should be small changes for preference.
- DaveW
#6130
you can take the 4 standoffs out of the bmi one to give it a little more flex if required.
#6131
Originally Posted by xDeeDubYax
FROG: You need a 190mm body. Your servo should be a high quality one. Futaba, Airtronics, KO, etc, makes great ones. There are other smaller companies that make servos of comprable speed and torque, but not quality. In this hobby, the one thing you dont want to skimp on is electronics. Im not saying buy a 500$ servo, but dont buy a 50$ servo that will break and need to be replaced, costing you more in the longrun. I personally run Airtronics 94357 servos, have been more than pleased, and can be found new for 100$. I would say a servo no slower than .10 in transit time, and no less than 90 oz of torque. Metal gears are a plus, as the servo savers in the TC3/4 rarely work right. To get them to work well, you lose steering input and control. I actually install an AE diff spring in my steering kit in place of the stock spring, and just torque it down completely. However, i dont hit alot of stuff either.
- DaveW
- DaveW
Thank you for the info. Not an issue on quality. I have the Hitec Ti Gear servo in my Revo. I know what you are saying about quality. I now just have to decide which - I have been looking into the new 9000 series JR servos, the Hitec Ti Gear Servos, Futaba or Airtronics. I have the JR XS3 Pro Radio and at this time I am leaning towards the JR DZ9000S servo. I just can not find a good price on line. Tower has a great discount going on right now but they do not sell JR items.
#6132
Super Moderator
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by rcracenut
I put in the lightened (plastic) outdrives into my TC4 to lighten it up from the lightened steel outdrives. I adjusted them to the factory 1/2 turn out. They felt alittle too tight.They melted into the gear in 2 races. Do any of you run the plastic outdrives and what setting do you have success with? Also does anyone have success running them with 19 turns? I want to loosen them up but I heard they spin the rings if it isnt tight and I didnt want to toast them so early.
#6133
Hi Dude..
I had tested my TC4 with Sphere b/l last evening.. m using the gear ratio of 9.02 with 64P .. the motor generated " Touchable " heat .. is it normal ? any best gear ratio solution for my b/l on this machine ?
Thx in advance for the suggestion ..
I had tested my TC4 with Sphere b/l last evening.. m using the gear ratio of 9.02 with 64P .. the motor generated " Touchable " heat .. is it normal ? any best gear ratio solution for my b/l on this machine ?
Thx in advance for the suggestion ..
Last edited by kawada; 09-06-2005 at 04:59 AM.
#6134
FROGRACING: Have you checked www.horizonhobby.com? I know they carry JR products.
KAWADA: Your gear ratio for a 5 minute racing heat, when compared to practicing with the car for a whole battery pack will be different. The full battery practice run will generate more heat in a motor of any type when geared for racing. Typically, a race gear ratio will be higher, and can be accomplished because of the 5 minute limit. It is normal however for an electric motor to be uncomfortable to touch at the end of a run, but it does reduce the life of the motor dramatically. Tire size also affects ratio, so keep that in mind. Be reasonable in your gear. If you are just adding more gear to the motor to make it go faster, and you get more heat that speed, then it is time to change the motor to get something faster.
- DaveW
KAWADA: Your gear ratio for a 5 minute racing heat, when compared to practicing with the car for a whole battery pack will be different. The full battery practice run will generate more heat in a motor of any type when geared for racing. Typically, a race gear ratio will be higher, and can be accomplished because of the 5 minute limit. It is normal however for an electric motor to be uncomfortable to touch at the end of a run, but it does reduce the life of the motor dramatically. Tire size also affects ratio, so keep that in mind. Be reasonable in your gear. If you are just adding more gear to the motor to make it go faster, and you get more heat that speed, then it is time to change the motor to get something faster.
- DaveW