300LikesTeam Associated TC4
02-02-2005, 10:31 AM
#3122
Runnin RC10
Some things you need to check are in order..
1) When setting ride height you need to better understand the droop settings you have, especially on the rear of the car. Since the ride height is dependent on the collar location and the droop settings, it's possible to pre-load the spring. Many racers have many different opinions on how to set the droop and shock collar. I have found in my experince that droop is rarely an exact number at all four corners. I would back all the shock collars off, set your droop to 5 in front and NONE in the rear of the car. Then set the car down and begin to set ride height. When you set the ride height you should be able to lift the rear of the car and the springs should only slightly lose contact with the shock collar. In addition, when you re-check droop, I like to press down each corner of the car to see the effective droop before the tire opposite lifts off the ground. In my opinion, you would never want a tire to lift off the groud as you would lose both traction and consistancy.
2) When you check a board and the car no longer handles the same, I would check the hinge pins first (if no noticebale damage has occured to other parts such as the C-hub). Other things that do go bad over time are the ball-stud in the top of the c-hub and the lower shoulder screw. You could have even popped the swaybar and not noticed...
3) Racing these cars is all about blueprinting the chassis every once in awhile. While a quick visual inspection is good between race rounds, you should go throught the car once a week to really fine-tune the car and how it performs.
Good luck!
Greg
1) When setting ride height you need to better understand the droop settings you have, especially on the rear of the car. Since the ride height is dependent on the collar location and the droop settings, it's possible to pre-load the spring. Many racers have many different opinions on how to set the droop and shock collar. I have found in my experince that droop is rarely an exact number at all four corners. I would back all the shock collars off, set your droop to 5 in front and NONE in the rear of the car. Then set the car down and begin to set ride height. When you set the ride height you should be able to lift the rear of the car and the springs should only slightly lose contact with the shock collar. In addition, when you re-check droop, I like to press down each corner of the car to see the effective droop before the tire opposite lifts off the ground. In my opinion, you would never want a tire to lift off the groud as you would lose both traction and consistancy.
2) When you check a board and the car no longer handles the same, I would check the hinge pins first (if no noticebale damage has occured to other parts such as the C-hub). Other things that do go bad over time are the ball-stud in the top of the c-hub and the lower shoulder screw. You could have even popped the swaybar and not noticed...
3) Racing these cars is all about blueprinting the chassis every once in awhile. While a quick visual inspection is good between race rounds, you should go throught the car once a week to really fine-tune the car and how it performs.
Good luck!
Greg
02-02-2005, 10:35 AM
#3123
Re: Runnin RC10
Originally posted by Greg Amendola
Some things you need to check are in order..
1) When setting ride height you need to better understand the droop settings you have, especially on the rear of the car. Since the ride height is dependent on the collar location and the droop settings, it's possible to pre-load the spring. Many racers have many different opinions on how to set the droop and shock collar. I have found in my experince that droop is rarely an exact number at all four corners. I would back all the shock collars off, set your droop to 5 in front and NONE in the rear of the car. Then set the car down and begin to set ride height. When you set the ride height you should be able to lift the rear of the car and the springs should only slightly lose contact with the shock collar. In addition, when you re-check droop, I like to press down each corner of the car to see the effective droop before the tire opposite lifts off the ground. In my opinion, you would never want a tire to lift off the groud as you would lose both traction and consistancy.
2) When you check a board and the car no longer handles the same, I would check the hinge pins first (if no noticebale damage has occured to other parts such as the C-hub). Other things that do go bad over time are the ball-stud in the top of the c-hub and the lower shoulder screw. You could have even popped the swaybar and not noticed...
3) Racing these cars is all about blueprinting the chassis every once in awhile. While a quick visual inspection is good between race rounds, you should go throught the car once a week to really fine-tune the car and how it performs.
Good luck!
Greg
Some things you need to check are in order..
1) When setting ride height you need to better understand the droop settings you have, especially on the rear of the car. Since the ride height is dependent on the collar location and the droop settings, it's possible to pre-load the spring. Many racers have many different opinions on how to set the droop and shock collar. I have found in my experince that droop is rarely an exact number at all four corners. I would back all the shock collars off, set your droop to 5 in front and NONE in the rear of the car. Then set the car down and begin to set ride height. When you set the ride height you should be able to lift the rear of the car and the springs should only slightly lose contact with the shock collar. In addition, when you re-check droop, I like to press down each corner of the car to see the effective droop before the tire opposite lifts off the ground. In my opinion, you would never want a tire to lift off the groud as you would lose both traction and consistancy.
2) When you check a board and the car no longer handles the same, I would check the hinge pins first (if no noticebale damage has occured to other parts such as the C-hub). Other things that do go bad over time are the ball-stud in the top of the c-hub and the lower shoulder screw. You could have even popped the swaybar and not noticed...
3) Racing these cars is all about blueprinting the chassis every once in awhile. While a quick visual inspection is good between race rounds, you should go throught the car once a week to really fine-tune the car and how it performs.
Good luck!
Greg
MAN! that is confusing .
02-02-2005, 11:29 AM
#3124
I am not a fan of using the just barely loose method of setting droop and heres why.
First off, your droop setting will very with spring length. You will need to make sure all you springs are exactly the same length. If you dont, you could have varying droop settings at each corner wich could make for a very evil handling car. Also a simple spring change not only your spring rate, but your droop setting as well.
Second, if your on foams, your ride height will change with tire wear. When your change ride height, you need to change droop to account for the new settings. If you are already running max droop, where do you change it to.
Third, droop is a great adjustment for handling. Need more on power steering, take out some front droop, less add some. Need more off power steering, add rear droop, less take some out. Also, droop can come into play in mid corner depending on your droop split and if you car is hitting the droop stops in the corner.
I start with 2-3mm more droop from ride height. If my car is at 5mm, my droop screws hit the stops when I pick up on the chassis at around 7-8mm measured with a droop gauge. Slick tracks I usually go to 10mm. But make sure the springs aren't loose at full droop.
After that I use a droop gauge to make sure it is even from side to side. The AE gauge works good if you are sure that the chassis is perfectly straight. I use a Dynamite droop gauge with blocks. Set the blocks on a flat surface and set the car on the blocks, use the gauge on each corner to make sure they are even from side to side. Then I set the tweak on an MIP Tweak Station and the car is even every time.
First off, your droop setting will very with spring length. You will need to make sure all you springs are exactly the same length. If you dont, you could have varying droop settings at each corner wich could make for a very evil handling car. Also a simple spring change not only your spring rate, but your droop setting as well.
Second, if your on foams, your ride height will change with tire wear. When your change ride height, you need to change droop to account for the new settings. If you are already running max droop, where do you change it to.
Third, droop is a great adjustment for handling. Need more on power steering, take out some front droop, less add some. Need more off power steering, add rear droop, less take some out. Also, droop can come into play in mid corner depending on your droop split and if you car is hitting the droop stops in the corner.
I start with 2-3mm more droop from ride height. If my car is at 5mm, my droop screws hit the stops when I pick up on the chassis at around 7-8mm measured with a droop gauge. Slick tracks I usually go to 10mm. But make sure the springs aren't loose at full droop.
After that I use a droop gauge to make sure it is even from side to side. The AE gauge works good if you are sure that the chassis is perfectly straight. I use a Dynamite droop gauge with blocks. Set the blocks on a flat surface and set the car on the blocks, use the gauge on each corner to make sure they are even from side to side. Then I set the tweak on an MIP Tweak Station and the car is even every time.
02-02-2005, 11:41 AM
#3126
Spur gear ?
I'm was buy TC4 use which spur gear best for MOD 5 mins ?
48P or 64P ?
48P or 64P ?
02-02-2005, 11:43 AM
#3127
Tech Master
the pitch of the gear doesnt have to do with what motor your running you have more percise gearing with 64 than 48 because its a finner pitch.
02-02-2005, 11:55 AM
#3128
Ok i tried setting my droop once using a different method and it worked terribly. It said to back your droop all the way out..and then with the car suspened (wheels off the ground) to set the droop so that the springs barely made contactact with the shock collars. I did this and it was only and like 2mm of dropp. Im confused about how to set droop..
02-02-2005, 11:57 AM
#3129
Re: Spur gear ?
Originally posted by LeoChan
I'm was buy TC4 use which spur gear best for MOD 5 mins ?
48P or 64P ?
I'm was buy TC4 use which spur gear best for MOD 5 mins ?
48P or 64P ?
02-02-2005, 12:07 PM
#3131
Re: Runnin RC10
Originally posted by Greg Amendola
Some things you need to check are in order..
1) When setting ride height you need to better understand the droop settings you have, especially on the rear of the car. Since the ride height is dependent on the collar location and the droop settings, it's possible to pre-load the spring. Many racers have many different opinions on how to set the droop and shock collar. I have found in my experince that droop is rarely an exact number at all four corners. I would back all the shock collars off, set your droop to 5 in front and NONE in the rear of the car. Then set the car down and begin to set ride height. When you set the ride height you should be able to lift the rear of the car and the springs should only slightly lose contact with the shock collar. In addition, when you re-check droop, I like to press down each corner of the car to see the effective droop before the tire opposite lifts off the ground. In my opinion, you would never want a tire to lift off the groud as you would lose both traction and consistancy.
2) When you check a board and the car no longer handles the same, I would check the hinge pins first (if no noticebale damage has occured to other parts such as the C-hub). Other things that do go bad over time are the ball-stud in the top of the c-hub and the lower shoulder screw. You could have even popped the swaybar and not noticed...
3) Racing these cars is all about blueprinting the chassis every once in awhile. While a quick visual inspection is good between race rounds, you should go throught the car once a week to really fine-tune the car and how it performs.
Good luck!
Greg
Some things you need to check are in order..
1) When setting ride height you need to better understand the droop settings you have, especially on the rear of the car. Since the ride height is dependent on the collar location and the droop settings, it's possible to pre-load the spring. Many racers have many different opinions on how to set the droop and shock collar. I have found in my experince that droop is rarely an exact number at all four corners. I would back all the shock collars off, set your droop to 5 in front and NONE in the rear of the car. Then set the car down and begin to set ride height. When you set the ride height you should be able to lift the rear of the car and the springs should only slightly lose contact with the shock collar. In addition, when you re-check droop, I like to press down each corner of the car to see the effective droop before the tire opposite lifts off the ground. In my opinion, you would never want a tire to lift off the groud as you would lose both traction and consistancy.
2) When you check a board and the car no longer handles the same, I would check the hinge pins first (if no noticebale damage has occured to other parts such as the C-hub). Other things that do go bad over time are the ball-stud in the top of the c-hub and the lower shoulder screw. You could have even popped the swaybar and not noticed...
3) Racing these cars is all about blueprinting the chassis every once in awhile. While a quick visual inspection is good between race rounds, you should go throught the car once a week to really fine-tune the car and how it performs.
Good luck!
Greg
02-02-2005, 12:10 PM
#3132
I always set my droop last. I back out the droop screws a couple of turns first and set my ride height. Then I put it on scales and set the tweak. Then I use two identical ride height gagues to hold up each end of the car evenly at over ride height measurement. I then set the screws so the tires are even with the setup board. I stay between 1mm-2mm in front and 2mm-5mm in the rear. Running on carpet.
02-02-2005, 02:02 PM
#3133
Speedie is correct on setting the droop last. Sorry I didn't covey that clearly in my previous message as I tried to get across alot of info in a short paragraph.
To revisit the setup...
The reason I set droop the way is this:
1) If I press down on the LR corner, and watch the RF tire, I want to make sure the tire just barely stays on the ground. I then check it by pressing down on the RR, adn watching the LF tire just the same. While I do typically set my downstops at 5 as a starting point, they never stay there during final setup. I also use this to identify issues with the car after a crash. If the tire lifts, I know something has changed, often times the bent hinge pin which reduces suspension arm travel. It will also identify shock issues quickly as far as when they need to be rebuilt...
2) Between my studies and racing experiece, I haven't been able to find any preformance gain by having a tire lose contact with the surface. Using to little droop can cause this to happen so you need to be careful on how much you limit droop.
I set mine in the back to none for several reasons... When you race, you lose the most time coming off and going back on power through corners. Thus, the sooner you can get back on the power, the faster your lap times we be.
The way I break down a setup is pretty simple. The front dictates the line I can take, and the rear determines how quickly I can take it. By using no droop, I can maximize the amount of time I'm on-power by keeping as much traction in the rear of the car as possible. To that effect I also use 3 degrees of toe-in to reduce as much off-power as possible.
Now, I use many different tuning options to make the car work best, and the inner workings of these setting can be simple or complex. The point is to make one change at a time and understanding the change you are looking to achieve.
Just remeber, setups need to be blueprinted often to ensure the best, most consistant performance possible. A good setup is worthless unless you have taken care of some of the basics first, such as: centering the servo such that the tires are straight before attaching the servo horn, checking your EPA (end point adjustments) to make sure your car turns left and right equally, use no exponential, steering punch, throttle punch, or any other performance enhancement gimmic.
Remember to clean out your tires between rounds, and rotate them once per night!
To revisit the setup...
The reason I set droop the way is this:
1) If I press down on the LR corner, and watch the RF tire, I want to make sure the tire just barely stays on the ground. I then check it by pressing down on the RR, adn watching the LF tire just the same. While I do typically set my downstops at 5 as a starting point, they never stay there during final setup. I also use this to identify issues with the car after a crash. If the tire lifts, I know something has changed, often times the bent hinge pin which reduces suspension arm travel. It will also identify shock issues quickly as far as when they need to be rebuilt...
2) Between my studies and racing experiece, I haven't been able to find any preformance gain by having a tire lose contact with the surface. Using to little droop can cause this to happen so you need to be careful on how much you limit droop.
I set mine in the back to none for several reasons... When you race, you lose the most time coming off and going back on power through corners. Thus, the sooner you can get back on the power, the faster your lap times we be.
The way I break down a setup is pretty simple. The front dictates the line I can take, and the rear determines how quickly I can take it. By using no droop, I can maximize the amount of time I'm on-power by keeping as much traction in the rear of the car as possible. To that effect I also use 3 degrees of toe-in to reduce as much off-power as possible.
Now, I use many different tuning options to make the car work best, and the inner workings of these setting can be simple or complex. The point is to make one change at a time and understanding the change you are looking to achieve.
Just remeber, setups need to be blueprinted often to ensure the best, most consistant performance possible. A good setup is worthless unless you have taken care of some of the basics first, such as: centering the servo such that the tires are straight before attaching the servo horn, checking your EPA (end point adjustments) to make sure your car turns left and right equally, use no exponential, steering punch, throttle punch, or any other performance enhancement gimmic.
Remember to clean out your tires between rounds, and rotate them once per night!
Last edited by Greg Amendola; 02-02-2005 at 03:06 PM.
02-02-2005, 03:02 PM
#3135
Tech Adept
drivetrain
Thanks guys for taking time to answer!
OK, so I've finished my kit completly now and I found the drivetrain train too tight
I ran a motor in it for about half an hour but didn't make much difference
I can't spin the drivetrain free at all
even with fairly heavy wheels on it doesn't spin 1 second ! I feels smooth but its just not free at all....
Do you think this is normal?
There"s a very little noise coming out from the gear boxes, I wonder if the mesh isn't too tight?
Do you think I sould change the shimming of the gears and try and make it more free?
Hope you guys can still help me on this, feeling a bit depressed right now
Guys, you've been a great help! Please continue
See ya!!
OK, so I've finished my kit completly now and I found the drivetrain train too tight
I ran a motor in it for about half an hour but didn't make much difference
I can't spin the drivetrain free at all
even with fairly heavy wheels on it doesn't spin 1 second ! I feels smooth but its just not free at all....Do you think this is normal?
There"s a very little noise coming out from the gear boxes, I wonder if the mesh isn't too tight?
Do you think I sould change the shimming of the gears and try and make it more free?
Hope you guys can still help me on this, feeling a bit depressed right now
Guys, you've been a great help! Please continue
See ya!!