Team Associated TC4
#2312
Tech Regular
I thought it was diff gears too thick, not the spur gear...
Haven't seen anyone report the spur was too thick..
Haven't seen anyone report the spur was too thick..
#2313
Sorry I meant the ring gear its the one with the diff balls in it. You can take your calipers and measure the thickness of the ring gear. I dont know what the spec is offhand but the overly thick one was causing my diffs to lock up midway through the run. If you have some spares from your old tc3 they will work fine.
#2315
Tech Regular
The new ones and the ones you would buy as parts are not as thick, permitting the balls to ride properly on the rings.
In the kits the diff gears were slightly too thick not allowing the balls to ride on the rings properly, associated has acknowledged the problem, if you believe yours are too thick, if you call AE with proof of purchase I think they will help ya out.
In the kits the diff gears were slightly too thick not allowing the balls to ride on the rings properly, associated has acknowledged the problem, if you believe yours are too thick, if you call AE with proof of purchase I think they will help ya out.
#2316
Re: runnrc10....
Originally posted by RCknight
you shouldn't be stripping the front knuckles. Don't keep turning the hex, man! Just tighten it down until it's snug. No more, no less.
If you have to remove the ball stud and screw it back in, make sure you back turn the ballstud counterclock wise a few turns so that the threads drop down, then screw it back in snug. You should do this with all the screws that go into plastic or carbon molded parts. Your parts will last much longer between rebuilds.
you shouldn't be stripping the front knuckles. Don't keep turning the hex, man! Just tighten it down until it's snug. No more, no less.
If you have to remove the ball stud and screw it back in, make sure you back turn the ballstud counterclock wise a few turns so that the threads drop down, then screw it back in snug. You should do this with all the screws that go into plastic or carbon molded parts. Your parts will last much longer between rebuilds.
#2317
Tech Regular
Try using CA at least to make it last until u buy alu
#2318
New to RC!
I have the TC3 and love it, I hav changed some of the parts out for stronger ones It's all good my problem is under standing which spur to use to get more speed. any help.
era152
era152
#2319
Tech Master
on the spur go down for top end and up for low end
#2320
That will help , that may be why guys running 27t and I'm running 17t is faster then me.
#2321
Tech Regular
Try going with a larger pinion before changing the spur gear...
Check AE's recommended gear chart as a starting point. Also could be your motor needs a rebuild.
Check AE's recommended gear chart as a starting point. Also could be your motor needs a rebuild.
#2322
Tech Master
are you running the same pitch gear as the other guy because 10teeth is a pretty big jump
#2323
just wondering what shims everyone is running under the hinge pin mounts? Stock setup or? I did actually search the forum so dont go nuts if its already been asked. Running rubber on ozite on smooth moderatly tight track setups.
#2324
Tech Champion
iTrader: (3)
Originally posted by newera152
That will help , that may be why guys running 27t and I'm running 17t is faster then me.
That will help , that may be why guys running 27t and I'm running 17t is faster then me.
So here's something I came across talking to a lot of different people on the TC4. Flex is an issue, that's been talked about over and over again. One driver even said he is able to flex the graphite arms in his hands. Would it be possible to simply retrofit the TC4 with FT TC3 arms and use the TC3 Swaybar mounts? Seems like it "should" fix some of the problems. Any thoughts?
#2325
Tech Lord
iTrader: (13)
hey guys,
i did alot of testing today with the BMI TC-4 carbon fiber chassis kit.testing went very well.the car carried alot more coner speed and was extremely consistant.i ran it with a 8x2 and i could almost drive it with my eyes closed.it was so smoothe and did respond very well to even the most slight adjustments.my only complaint with the car is that its pretty brittle.on occasion that i tagged a pipe it was almost certain of breaking.it took me a bit to get it set up but once i got it she was so nice.all that i am lacking now is a swaybar.even without running a swaybar on the front or rear on high bite asphalt,it still didnt scrub the sides of the chassis on the bottom.it carried so much speed through the corners without getting squirley and was very,very consistant.the car felt the same every lap and i could hit the same lines every time.i am very pleased with the car and feel that this kit is ready to go to production as long as carpet testing went as well.
jason
i did alot of testing today with the BMI TC-4 carbon fiber chassis kit.testing went very well.the car carried alot more coner speed and was extremely consistant.i ran it with a 8x2 and i could almost drive it with my eyes closed.it was so smoothe and did respond very well to even the most slight adjustments.my only complaint with the car is that its pretty brittle.on occasion that i tagged a pipe it was almost certain of breaking.it took me a bit to get it set up but once i got it she was so nice.all that i am lacking now is a swaybar.even without running a swaybar on the front or rear on high bite asphalt,it still didnt scrub the sides of the chassis on the bottom.it carried so much speed through the corners without getting squirley and was very,very consistant.the car felt the same every lap and i could hit the same lines every time.i am very pleased with the car and feel that this kit is ready to go to production as long as carpet testing went as well.
jason