Joe B

iTrader: (1)

ghoppa...First.........For the IRS lite outdrives to function "properly" you have to use the NITRO TC-3 assembly instructions, not the electric TC-3 assembly......First you need the nitro PN#6575 nylon T-nut and the standard PN#6582 (electric or nitro) diff spring that you already have, these both go into the "long" diff half (the spring first, then the T-nut)........then, the thrust bearing assembly & diff bolt gets installed thru the short diff half (instead of the long one)........this is because the IRS lite drives have no recess for the small diff nut (thats no longer needed) to properly center the thrust bearing and diff bolt..........I haven't used the associated lightened steel units as of yet, but if they ALSO have no recess for the little diff nut, then you should be able to use the 6575 nylon T-nut.........Joe

Joe B

iTrader: (1)

And like earlier posts mentioned.....The defective overly fat diff gears could be the "immediate" problem.......

raving-monkey

just because it spins for a long time, doesn't mean it is incredibley free, it means it has a large rotating mass.

yes a free drivetrain will spin for longer, but if it spins for so long it means ithas a large rotating mass, and carries a lot of momentum.

Joe B

iTrader: (1)

If it spins for a long time it "can" mean it does so because of heavy resiprocating mass thats overpowering a less than efficient drivetrain........but not always.......properly set-up, a light as can be drivetrain for a tc-3 or 4.....aluminum imput shafts,plastic outdrives,free bearings,ect.....can go for close to 25 seconds.......not that there's probably much advantage over just a few seconds of spin......

crACkeD ChaSsiS

iTrader: (4)

lol i wouldnt call 15 more secs,just a few secs.

Steven Alexander

Jsaves

iTrader: (4)

Hey Guys,

The sway bars and Eric D.'s set up helped me go from 2 laps off the pace to TQ and A-main win.
I just changed the ft. sway to the gold, put on rear blk. sway and used copper rear springs. I did not have a 2 set of purples springs.
I even run CRC's foams R6 ft. and R4 rear. ( like double purple and purple jaco's).
Car was great, now I want to get rid of a little chasis draging in corners, any ideas?

Merry Christmas to all.
jsaves

Eric's set up
http://www.streamload.com/tphalen/Ra...pet_Champs.pdf

JDM_DOHC_SiR

iTrader: (31)

Hey Ray..

Any feed back form your test "Mule" yet
-Dave

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

Its being built right now!! YOur all going to want to start saving your Chrismas cash for this bad boy!!!

I have a Family Dinner party to go to-but when I get home-assuming i can see straight, etc.

I'll take some pics when its built.

JDM_DOHC_SiR

iTrader: (31)

Thanks Ray... also if you get a chance when you are done building it..put that bad boy on a scale so when can all get an "ABOUT" weight for it
-Dave

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

Dave-for sure-the whole conversion kit-standoffs and screws weighs LESS then the stock plastic tub.

I wasnt able to compare the Graphite tub because I was dissasssembling the tub car as I built the other one!!

Ray

Poppa Ray

I can understand that theory but I'm not sure it applies in this case. The tires were the same as mine (CS-27) and I think everything else was as light as can be, even plastic out drives (stock racing) I honestly think it was just lack of friction. I know if I just fold the hub of my xxxs and spin the cvd with a wheel on it it will spin free for a while. but as soon as i asemble everything IE connect to the belt drive I only get a couple of seconds of free spin and that's with a hard spin! Now the only thing I've added is the spur idler and diff pulleys and their bearings but each has it's own rotating mass and all free spin when unassembled. So the only added friction is from the belt! If all those obsevations are tru and the theory that bevel gears unload friction at high speed (I race on a fairly large track Hobbyworld http://www.angelfire.com/music5/g_ramos/home.html ) then the TC4 should be the rig to run. That and the local hot shoe is just whoopin my a$$ by a second per lap with a TC4.

Joe B

iTrader: (1)

Hey Cracked Chassis.............I ment that there's probably not "much" advantage between just a (couple seconds of spin and 25 seconds of spin).......Although it's nice to have a very free and efficient drivetrain.......(all else being equal) Iv'e never felt a big difference with the above situation, even running stock........

raving-monkey

yeah i understand what your saying, just that on my old xray, if you built it up without wheels then it would spin for a couple of seconds...as soon as you put wheels on it was spinning for arund 10+ secs, its just the momentum it carries once you increase its rotating mass.

well, once ive built my TC4 tomorrow ill let you guys know what the drivetrain is like, hope i don't get any dodgey bevels or dodgey hingpins etc

RCknight

iTrader: (5)

Acer Teflasonic Dual PTFE bearings? If so, what did you think of them? Also what does PTFE stand for? Any other brands of this bearing type that are better? I don't want to spend more that $60.00. I have always liked the AE team teflon ones, but they want a fortune for them.

raving-monkey

i dont know what PTFE stands for but i know you can get PTFE tape, plumbers use it on joints, like they will tape it around where 2 pipes meet before putting a bolt on or wot ever.

its like a rubber type stuff, isn't actually sticky but it sticks for some strange reason

coming from an engineer (got a degree, and is a bachelor of science) aparently ceramic bearings aren't the best to use for our application, standard steel balls are with a tolerance of 0.01microns (might cost £3 a bearing, but their damn worth it, had some int he xray, gonna get some for the TC4 )

also, roller bearings are VERY free, but they have no side to side movement, so if you get hit from the side they will most likely shatter (if their ceramic) or just totally mess up if their steel.