luda

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the tips. Yes this will be for running at Dandenong.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

On the serpent spings, I actually believe Marc Fischer ended up using Gray/gray F/R at the last ETS, so don't quite rule them out yet.
The biggest issue with the serpent springs for me is that the rates are quite far apart, which can make it difficult to tune with them. For me the Ride springs have very nice close rates, which makes it a little easier to tweak the springs.

HiH
Ed

RCJunkie77

Hello all! New to this forum and I am sure that I am most likely breaking some unknown rule, I apologize in advance.

I have been reading this forum for information on the s411 anticipating the day it arrived. That day was yesterday. Ran the car on the track tonight and it handled like a dream, almost like it was riding on glass. Anyways, after being happy with track performance, I of course had to get a speed run in on 3s . First was a moderate run clocked at 73 mph, I then decided to be a bit more bolder and try a 2nd one. I shouldn't of, the car went airborne like I knew it was possible . I only broke an upright and a cvd insert and pin. Just wanted to say that I like the car and I learned my lesson. No more speed runs, the car is pretty light as everyone already knows.

Thanks for all the input everyone has been writing about, it has helped me quite a bit. Keep up the good work.

Geberit

No doubt the Gray springs can get useful in some conditions. Maybe on a track with more grip they would work better. I our case we tried Serpent and Ride springs and in both cases harder springs were a better choice. Ride the Red/Red combo seemed to work better than Blue/Blue or Green/Green. On the Blues and Greens the car lack of grit at the start and got better after a few laps but still slide around a little more. The Reds gave good grip from the start. The same we observed with Serpent springs Black/Black, Yellow/Yellow and Gray/Gray were the Blacks were the best option.

This has certainly to do something with the track that we were riding on. It is a medium bite track when conditions are at its best so it tends more to low bite than high bite.

On high bite tracks softer springs may work better so Grays definitely would be worth to try.

Lojz

Timbo99

iTrader: (14)

Ed you have PM.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Certainly agree. Springs is still one of the major things I'm still not 100% settled on, at least in terms of a base setup. Changing track conditions, and other changes to the car mean I've been undecided between harder and softer. Recently, I've moved back towards a HPI silver/silver setup (not dissimilar to Ride Red/Red) over the Ride Green/Green I had been running. Also tried out the yokomo's again, but think the fact that the pink behaves more like a progressive, whilst the blue is linear, makes the car feel odd on asphalt...maybe a Yok Blue/Blue will work well for higher grip, and I do need to add Ride Red's to the pit box as well

Anyway, doesn't really solve much, lol, and more random mumblings than anything else... but does mean I have still more things to try out on my list in the future!

Replied

Livingston

Ed,

I tried some of the changes and car now no longer breaks away mid corner.
Went to Stafford for BTCC, track has been swept and washed, no grip and grained tires after one run, even for the top drivers.

I put on 1.0/1.0 blocks on front and 3mm bump washers, moved rear wishbones back (1mm at rear).
Put 0.5mm spacers under rear block, then tried 1mm.
Will be testing at Aldershot next week, track much kinder on tires.

Have also notice shocks are starting to leak, do you put in a extra spacer in with the o ring.

Chris.

FastPete

iTrader: (44)

Thanks for the help guys. Back to spring questions. I have the 2.0 with two races on it. Stock setup black front grey rear . I noticed on the rear grey springs at 5mm droop which is stock. and 5mm ride height, when the car is on the stand, so tires hanging, one spring was alittle loose, no preload. But the other side did have alittle preload. I went through everything and its the springs one is a good mm shorter or so. Now the car does handle great! But that cant be good, when u let off the throttle rear weight wouldn't transfer forward even right? No spring pressure pushing up to get it to the droop screw.

Just always trying to make things better right? And if u agree I should fix it, should I get Ride springs or? And what ones? The stock rate to me feels good, and might want one step stiffer. And where to get them?

Thanks

Arn0

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/serp...zer_BuildTips/

FastPete

iTrader: (44)

Thoughts?

Timbo99

iTrader: (14)

Hey Pete,
I wouldn't worry about it.
The cars weight transfer would have to be so great it lifts the rear wheels off the ground when braking,and that doesn't happen.
I'd keep the cash in your wallet and keep smiling!
Regards
Tim

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Just make sure that its not the paint build up on the spring thats making the stack difference. When you set your ride height do you have equal amounts of gap between the shock collars and the top cap? At static is the ride height the same left to right? If you have the car sitting static and lift it and do a "over ride height" measurement is it the same left to right?

gearhead_22

iTrader: (10)

http://www.serpent.com/product/401597 does anyone know why there are two different suspension bracket in this kit 0.5 and 1.5

gearhead_22

iTrader: (10)

also I can grab my spur gear and move it side to side. Is this normal?

whityboy

iTrader: (1)

yes this is normal. some put a shim in to take the play away.
for the brackets you can choose between 0.5 and 1.5 depending on which side you place them on the chassis