Serpent S411
#4051
#4052
#4053
Carpet setup
Hi. Y'all. What's the best s411 setup for carpet track 100 x 60 size?
Anyone tested it on carpet how does it do compared to tamiya and X-ray cars?
Thank
Anyone tested it on carpet how does it do compared to tamiya and X-ray cars?
Thank
#4054
S411 SE, box stock, great starting point for carpet. Running dual gear diffs.
#4057
Serpent should be in the progress of making the split blocks. But it takes time to develop, and with so many big races at the moment both EC and WC, it could take 1-2 month before it is ready.
#4058
I was rebuilding my shocks a while ago and changed one of the standard o-rings for a green Much More o-ring. Much better. This together with 1 mm hole in the cap resulted in very little rebound. On track the car had way more grip, almost to much roll. Much better over the bumps.
Anyone else having trouble with the rear damper ball cups hitting the rims? I´m using 1 mm washers and it still rubs (under load I presume).
Anyone else having trouble with the rear damper ball cups hitting the rims? I´m using 1 mm washers and it still rubs (under load I presume).
#4059
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
I was rebuilding my shocks a while ago and changed one of the standard o-rings for a green Much More o-ring. Much better. This together with 1 mm hole in the cap resulted in very little rebound. On track the car had way more grip, almost to much roll. Much better over the bumps.
Anyone else having trouble with the rear damper ball cups hitting the rims? I´m using 1 mm washers and it still rubs (under load I presume).
Anyone else having trouble with the rear damper ball cups hitting the rims? I´m using 1 mm washers and it still rubs (under load I presume).
i will be trialing viton orings in the near future as they are harder and LOVE SILICON OIL
trick will be getting the size abolutely right but we are talking cents not dollar and i buy them by the 1000
#4060
Tech Elite
iTrader: (19)
I was rebuilding my shocks a while ago and changed one of the standard o-rings for a green Much More o-ring. Much better. This together with 1 mm hole in the cap resulted in very little rebound. On track the car had way more grip, almost to much roll. Much better over the bumps.
Anyone else having trouble with the rear damper ball cups hitting the rims? I´m using 1 mm washers and it still rubs (under load I presume).
Anyone else having trouble with the rear damper ball cups hitting the rims? I´m using 1 mm washers and it still rubs (under load I presume).
#4061
Tech Apprentice
I suggest, you cut the cup and check the inside of the dishes after every race. If you have black spots on the rims, you have to cut more of the cup.
If you don't, you rear tire may brake a little while cornering, and then you can get a loose rear end.
#4062
Tech Apprentice
I was rebuilding my shocks a while ago and changed one of the standard o-rings for a green Much More o-ring. Much better. This together with 1 mm hole in the cap resulted in very little rebound. On track the car had way more grip, almost to much roll. Much better over the bumps.
Anyone else having trouble with the rear damper ball cups hitting the rims? I´m using 1 mm washers and it still rubs (under load I presume).
Anyone else having trouble with the rear damper ball cups hitting the rims? I´m using 1 mm washers and it still rubs (under load I presume).
Now I do the dampers this way: I use the standard o-rings, but I use Tamiya damper grease (the blue one) while assembling the bottom parts. The membrane I put into the top, where I have drilled an extra 1 mm hole in the plastic like Holmenkollen and others too. I fill the damper body with oil, put the top on, press the piston slowly up as high as I want the rebound. Oil will come out of the standard hole in the aluminium top. While I still hold the piston in the correct position, I finally screw the top on the damper body. The rebound can be almost like zero that way if you want.
I have no binding in the dampers. I have not tried other o-ring brands, as I have not felt any need yet. I have some new Tamiya blue competition o-rings in my bag. Maybe I will try them.
#4063
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
I was rebuilding my shocks a while ago and changed one of the standard o-rings for a green Much More o-ring. Much better. This together with 1 mm hole in the cap resulted in very little rebound. On track the car had way more grip, almost to much roll. Much better over the bumps.
Anyone else having trouble with the rear damper ball cups hitting the rims? I´m using 1 mm washers and it still rubs (under load I presume).
HiH
Ed
#4064
Tech Champion
iTrader: (15)
For those of you that use heatshrink around the end of the CVD to stop the pin from coming out.... Why are you also using the grub screw ? If the pin is contained, why both with the grub screw at all ?
I would think without the grub screw the entire assembly would be more "free". That is the reason I started running the TOP rings..
Thanks in advance...
I would think without the grub screw the entire assembly would be more "free". That is the reason I started running the TOP rings..
Thanks in advance...
#4065
Tech Champion
iTrader: (15)
We have been running Solaris tires as a spec here and the rim is chamfered . With previous wheels we used a deburring tool to chamfer it .
One or two rotations around the wheel and it has a nice bevel. ( it will be fine as long as it is within the rules you race with, some rules will not allow you to touch the rim at all )
http://www.homedepot.com/buy/brasscr...tool-t090.html
One or two rotations around the wheel and it has a nice bevel. ( it will be fine as long as it is within the rules you race with, some rules will not allow you to touch the rim at all )
http://www.homedepot.com/buy/brasscr...tool-t090.html
I've been using my shocks for a while with two tamiya blue o-rings in the bottom of the shocks. Makes the action much smoother, as they have a lot less friction than the standard serpent O-rings. However, as they are a little thinner, they don't quite seal the shock as well. To rectify this, I've added 0.7mm worth of shims between the shock body and the upper o-ring, which helps to squeeze them onto the shaft.
Had the same issue first time out with a set of Much-More tires, so I just cut the ball cup back a bit. 3 meetings later, no rubbing, and no issues
HiH
Ed
Had the same issue first time out with a set of Much-More tires, so I just cut the ball cup back a bit. 3 meetings later, no rubbing, and no issues
HiH
Ed