mattwoodcraft

iTrader: (10)

i have used the hard arms all round or medium rears putting the hard at the front for myself seemed to settle my car down, i thought the soft arms were to soft it caused my S411 to be inconsistent in the corners i found it hooked and really dug in

TimPotter

iTrader: (15)

This car is quite durable. I would suggest the usual suspect parts for any car... Here are the part numbers

SER401362 C-hub 4 L+R
SER401462 C-hub 4 L+R medium
SER401455 C-hub 4 L+R hard
SER401397 Wishbone front lower (2)
SER401393 Wishbone rear lower (2)
SER401459 Wishbone Fr Lw medium (2)
SER401460 Wishbone Rr Lw medium (2)
SER401452 Wishbone Fr Lw hard (2)
SER401453 Wishbone Rr Lw hard (2)
SER401363 Steeringblock L+R
SER401396 Upright (2)
SER401461 Upright medium (2)
SER401454 Upright hard (2)
SER401427 Pully 19T alu
SER401409 Blade (16)
SER401394 CVD driveshaft (2)
SER401410 Bushing steeringblock (4)
SER401381 CVD insert (2)
SER110208 Pin 2x10 (4)
SER411187 Pivotball with shaft (2)
SER401351 Belt Kevlar 30S3M510 low friction
SER401353 Belt Kevlar 30S3M186 low friction

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

Just got back from my first outing with my LE kit and I'm very impressed. Ended the day .2 off the fast lap going against guys that have been running this layout since the fall, and I haven't raced any TC in 3 years The kit setup is a great place to start, I worked from there and have some more stuff to try next time out. Mainly want to try lightening the diff oil even more, ended up with 600 in it and I believe 400 would be spot on, just ran out of time to try it. If I had a nickel for everyone that said, "hey, you got an Xray!", I'd be a rich man right now

Cory B

iTrader: (5)

Nice to see you back racing Matt! What class are you running these days?

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

little bit of everything, dabbled in offroad for a bit this year but the carpet nats are coming to Dallas so I got back into onroad for that.

Cory B

iTrader: (5)

Very nice! Too bad you wont really have home track advantage this year like you did in '08 LOL. But Im sure you will do well!

FastHound

Thanks Tim!

Martin Crisp

I have not tried a more narrow hex in the rear, because with my setup for carpet I have been running the number 2 hinge pin blocks in the front and the 0/3 in the rear, which makes the rear about 2mm more narrow than the front anyway. In fact, I have been making the rear match the width of the front by adding 1mm spacers on both rear hexes to make increase the rear grip a little and make it more stable through high speed chicanes.

Martin Crisp

to add to these suggestions... try the 1.2mm swaybar in the rear and keep the ride height the same front and rear.

TimPotter

iTrader: (15)

Martin,

It is my experience that a more narrow track makes for more traction. What am I experiencing here ?? It definitely makes that end of the car less forgiving, and seems like it changes direction quicker.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Martin I'm wondering which car you ended up running in the video post on the Awesomatic forum. Was it the LE or the other? To confirm what is the chassis thickness of the one you ran? Have you tried the hard parts yet? Can you post your most recent setup? Thanks

Martin Crisp

Whenever you make the track width on a car wider it will jave more lateral grip. i explain the math behind this in my RC SETUP WORKBENCH app. Yes the car will feel more twitchy especially in chicanes with the narrow rear end as the rear will roll more. as to why it might feel more stable mi cant really say without knkwing the resr of your setup.

I ran the standard kit. In the main my car had a severe tweek in the chassis eual to 2 comomete turns on the front right shock make the car have a severe oversteer turning left and a big push turning right. if you watch the car on the opening lap and around the 6 min point in the video yiu can see how much it slides going inti the left jNder after the high soeed chicane in the middle of the track.

I was only able to do 10.3 second laps in the main where the day before i did 9.9 so the car was not at its best in the main. by the way the best lap i did with my xray on the same layout a couple of weeks ago was a 10.2. so the sepent at 9.9 is very quick when I set it up right

I ran the 2.25 chassis with the normal uppr deck and the DJC.

I will upload my setup later.

lifeguy

Martin's car certainly looked good in the main, as I did my best to get out of his way as he lapped me at least twice! The car looks really dialed and easy to drive, and I am sure he will get even quicker.......

Grant

Martin Crisp

Here are the changes to my original setup.

stood up rear shocks two holes
7 grams w removed from in front of battery
0.5mm more spacer on inboard rear upper link
longer rear link by using the most inboard hole on the bulk head
added 1mm spacers on rear axles between hex and wheel.
added the DJC

The main thing I was trying to do with these changes is reduce the traction rolling as we have very high grip track and smooth out the handling a little. The wider rear track along with the rear shocks being stood up made the car much more stable through the high speed chicane, but did make the car push a little more than I would like on corner entry and mid corner. I lowered the rear roll center slightly by going to 4mm on the inboard rear upper link, along with adding the DJC to get more mid corner rotation.

This setup was easy to drive and very consistent.

MarcS2K

Nobody???