Originally Posted by Kensei

Sorry for me asking again, but I never ever had a geardiff. Don't wanna mess things up.........

Did you leave it at that then? NO
If not, which follow up? I clean it out with motor spray after.
If you would have used it longer than 2 mins each way, would the result have been better than? It should, but there is likely a diminishing return after more than 5 mins
Or is the stuff simply not cut out to do the job properly? there might be better stuff...but not sure as I only used the turtle wax rubbing compound

It's the brown kinda thick stuff, isn't it? the stuff I used is white
Put it in the diff up untill the diffaxle, or how much? up to the bottom of the diff axle

Originally Posted by haywood

Martin

Have you already equalled your fast lap with your old Xray? How does it feel compared to the Xray? Thanks

Originally Posted by Martin Crisp

Keep in mind that this was only my first day with the car, but I was very happy with this setup. My lap times (10.2 to 10.4) at my local (well 2 hours away) high grip carpet track were the same as what I would get on this layout with my xray. I only worked on changes to the spring rates, shock oils, roll center and rear diff oils, and left everything else the same. Also I don't have the ECS drives and the flex upper deck yet, which I think will help gain some more speed and consistency. The layout of the track is a great combination of tight corners, low and high speed chicanes and hard braking zones, so it was a good test for the car.

Having said that, the car felt incredibly smooth and easy to drive. I tried some higher roll center settings with softer (white) springs, and although the car had more lateral grip, it was a little harder to drive consistently, as it tends to be with most cars.

Also, as I got use to the car, and hit a lot of boards I tested out how strong this car is! I did not break any parts This surprised me given some of the hits it took.

Attached is my setup.

Cheers.

Originally Posted by Martin Crisp

Thanks for the comments about the app

I did not measure the droop using that approach. I measured droop above ride height. I do this by first measuring the ride height and then lift the car off the table sot that the tires are barely touching the surface and measure that ride height. The difference is the droop. I ran 2.5mm droop in the front and 3.0mm droop in the rear using this method.

As for the screws...I took out the 4 outer most screws and the one screw that screws into the motor mount.

Originally Posted by MarcusEngdahl

Ok i thought so too.
Just wanted too check

Tnx
Marcus

Originally Posted by Kensei

Maybe it is not really something for this thread, but hey I give it a shot.

Sold my RDX PHi '09 with servo Savox SC-1257 TG.
Ran WGT RC10R5 for a while than. Sold it with servo Futaba S9650 (mini 1/12th servo).

Starting all over again with Serpent S411 for the summer outdoor season.

Any suggestions on servos? Sanwa SDX-801 or the new Sanwa Brushless Servos
Does it make sense to use a low profile servo? Like Savox SC-1251 MG? I don't like Sävox, the "zero-point" isn't really good!
Looking for as low weight as possible. Futaba S9650 weighs only 29gr. Therefore me like very much...! But would that fit with the servoposts in the kit and the holes in the chassis the servoposts have to be used with? I don't know, is this Servo smaller then other ones? On Pictures it looks smaller
Other options?

The manual offers the option to use double sided tape for the servo.
Never been there, never done that.
Anyone any experience on that matter? Yes, used already a taped Servo on my S411 and a screwed Servo!
Does it hold when in heavy competition? Yes, normally yes ... you can fix the servo on one side with a servo post and tape then the servo, thats an better protection as ONLY taping. But normaly, it should hold.
Less weight because of not using the servoposts in the kit? I always prefer to use them. If you wanna save weight, try this with alloy steering posts, alloy camber links, titan screws and so on.
Not the possible problem of the servo not fitting in between the servoposts that have to go on the holes in the chassisplate? Normaly, no problems with regular 1:10 Touring Car Servos - i tried Sanwa & Graupner. I always use a Low-Profile Servo because you have more room for your electrics

Originally Posted by #iZzy

Hopefully this helps

Originally Posted by dameetz

I m racing this car on carpet right now at my local race (my 1st carpet race with this car), so far its been working perfectly. After 3 heats today I m still on top with 1 lap advantage over the 2nd place guy, also fastest lap by almost a second. Tommorrow we will have another 2 heats and then the finals. My car is almost all stock with only gear diff up front with 500k Kyosho oil, hard front arms and medium rear. I ll post the result again tommorrow and maybe a video of the race. Eversince I got this car, its been perfect whether on asphalt or carpet with all stock parts. I m loving this S411.

Originally Posted by Kensei

Maybe it is not really something for this thread, but hey I give it a shot.

Originally Posted by Martin Crisp

Thanks for the comments about the app

Originally Posted by Benzaah

I know a lot of people in this thread have a lot of patience for others but after about 4 pages of your posts i'm over it. Can we keep this discussion S411 related as this is not the 'I'm a newbie, answer every question i have about Rc' thread...

Originally Posted by pcar951

Although I kinda hate to screw with this great setup (Jeremy's), I got all my hard plastics, 2.25 chassis, one piece motor mounts, ready to update my cars. Are you all running hard arms on the front only? And what about the one piece mount?