Team Corally RDX Touring Car
#6646
Originally Posted by syndr0me
Looks like you can buy the undertray from Corally USA here:
http://www.corallyusa.com/istar.asp?a=6&id=COR78400!COR.
http://www.corallyusa.com/istar.asp?a=6&id=COR78400!COR.
#6647
Tech Elite
iTrader: (20)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: MEMBER OF THE "MWC" Mimi Wong Clan
Posts: 2,442
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
sorry for the late respnonse.. went to the Region 2 race!! Corally was once again dominating the field..Cuffs, Dodge, Derrroch, and all the local RDX drivers!!
Im finally back to the RDX... slipped of the track a little, got a great deal on the "new cars" could not stand the inconsistency of it, and bought a new Rdx friday night.. should have gotten it early and it would have been ready to go!!!
ok the diff bolt with the new kit, is threaded all the way down with an allen head screw like jeff metioned.. but will it break?? i know the newer version bolt has a shoulder on it... hopefully this kit version will not cause problems for now, gonna get new bolt anyways. my old ones were showing signs of wear at the bottom of the threads but never broke..... just replaced them before problem occurred.
im just glad im back... thanks jeff. i did see some not running the extensions and some running standard roll centers in the cars... they say running standard roll centers freed up the car more if tracton allows it.
ok back to building!!
later.
Im finally back to the RDX... slipped of the track a little, got a great deal on the "new cars" could not stand the inconsistency of it, and bought a new Rdx friday night.. should have gotten it early and it would have been ready to go!!!
ok the diff bolt with the new kit, is threaded all the way down with an allen head screw like jeff metioned.. but will it break?? i know the newer version bolt has a shoulder on it... hopefully this kit version will not cause problems for now, gonna get new bolt anyways. my old ones were showing signs of wear at the bottom of the threads but never broke..... just replaced them before problem occurred.
im just glad im back... thanks jeff. i did see some not running the extensions and some running standard roll centers in the cars... they say running standard roll centers freed up the car more if tracton allows it.
ok back to building!!
later.
#6648
Originally Posted by subman
Has anyone else had a problem with rear shock towers? I have broken almost one per weekend.
if anyone is interested in grabbing a couple, let me know and i will let Larry know how many to make - it will probably be a couple weeks out, but if you are interested, shoot me a pm
marc
ps....still loving the RDX....couldn't ask for a better car....
#6650
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
I always prefer a front one way on carpet with rubber tires. I know MCgreevy likes a diff still on rubber... but I've always found a one way easier to click off faster lap times. It rolls through the middle of the corner a lot faster.
I would run the Standard front shock tower with rubber tire as well. It's easier to get the correct ride height and such.
-Korey
I would run the Standard front shock tower with rubber tire as well. It's easier to get the correct ride height and such.
-Korey
#6652
[QUOTE=RCFREAK]sorry for the late respnonse.. went to the Region 2 race!! Corally was once again dominating the field..Cuffs, Dodge, Derrroch, and all the local RDX drivers!!
Your right about the Corally group but you forgot to mention Danny Hartman and Mike McBride as well............and you can thank Rob Michaels for allowing Ray Darrock to remain up north for acouple of weeks to race at the regionals and the upcoming Grand Finale in Cleveland....I am sure Rob has stuff for Ray to do down south .
Your right about the Corally group but you forgot to mention Danny Hartman and Mike McBride as well............and you can thank Rob Michaels for allowing Ray Darrock to remain up north for acouple of weeks to race at the regionals and the upcoming Grand Finale in Cleveland....I am sure Rob has stuff for Ray to do down south .
#6654
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
Have you ever had a screw stuck that just won't come out?
Have you ever had a screw stuck that just won't come out? I have and yes, I've done what everyone else has probably had to to before. Get the dremel out & cut a slot in the head (and my chassis) and use a large straight head screwdriver out and "hope" it comes out before you torque the head of the screw off.
Well, I tried something last night that worked great!! So next time you have a stubborn screw try this!
#1) If it doesn't come out naturally....DON'T force it! You'll just strip it out....
#2) Put a drop or two of WD-40 around the head of the screw (where you can see the edge of the countersink)
#3) Wait about 10 minutes.....
#4) Take your soldering iron and heat up the head of the screw for about 1 minute...... the oil will boil around the head and it'll loosen up the threads.
THEN>> Give it a good TWIST! and walaaaaa! It should come out...
If not, heat it up for another minute and try again.... but remember Don't force it.... it'll eventually work. It did for me...!
Hope this helps someone out there!!!
Well, I tried something last night that worked great!! So next time you have a stubborn screw try this!
#1) If it doesn't come out naturally....DON'T force it! You'll just strip it out....
#2) Put a drop or two of WD-40 around the head of the screw (where you can see the edge of the countersink)
#3) Wait about 10 minutes.....
#4) Take your soldering iron and heat up the head of the screw for about 1 minute...... the oil will boil around the head and it'll loosen up the threads.
THEN>> Give it a good TWIST! and walaaaaa! It should come out...
If not, heat it up for another minute and try again.... but remember Don't force it.... it'll eventually work. It did for me...!
Hope this helps someone out there!!!
#6657
Guy put in the club but i half to say i got the old tc4 rollin tonight kicked some but on the test track with a few of my friends. But i order my us carpet spec car today be here wedensday what should i set my hopes at? will i be more consistant and faster or what will it be like. Also could someone explain to me what will the car do when you move the shocks up on the post or down on the post?
#6659
Tech Lord
iTrader: (32)
I finally installed the lowered shock tower last night with the required mods. I shortened the shock shafts and ball ends 3mm. I noticed the spring retainers won't fit on the ball ends anymore, so I had to ream them out just a tiny bit. They now bottom out on the ball ends, which seems to be okay and doesn't get in the way when the shocks are screwed into the A-arms. Is that what you guys are doing too?
It definitely makes it easier to put the body on the car, and looks nice. What else does it do again? :-D
I'm going to give Cuffs' IIC setup a try. I noticed he went to the black springs for the back of the car, which is the first I've seen on a carpet setup.
Is there any good carpet racing around the Washington D.C./Herndon area? I'm stuck here all week for a stupid business trip, so I thought I might get out and watch a good club race if there are any within a reasonable distance.
It definitely makes it easier to put the body on the car, and looks nice. What else does it do again? :-D
I'm going to give Cuffs' IIC setup a try. I noticed he went to the black springs for the back of the car, which is the first I've seen on a carpet setup.
Is there any good carpet racing around the Washington D.C./Herndon area? I'm stuck here all week for a stupid business trip, so I thought I might get out and watch a good club race if there are any within a reasonable distance.
#6660
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
Syndr0me,
We've been running black springs in the back of the car for quite some time: for about a year.
I run 19 or 22 lb rears with the long extensions...24 lb with the standard ones...with 33 lb fronts being the norm.
As for the lowered tower procedure...it all sounds good. I never had to ream anything once it was all done, but the spring cups should fit right on top of the ball-end like you said.
We've been running black springs in the back of the car for quite some time: for about a year.
I run 19 or 22 lb rears with the long extensions...24 lb with the standard ones...with 33 lb fronts being the norm.
As for the lowered tower procedure...it all sounds good. I never had to ream anything once it was all done, but the spring cups should fit right on top of the ball-end like you said.