BrettBowen

There's a good chance your shock bladders are turning inside out. Is it all 4 shocks or just the fronts? With the lowered shock tower in the front, I cut about 1/2 of the threads off the shock shaft, and actually shortened the shock end as well. This way the piston runs more in the middle of the shock body, instead up right up by the bladder. Also, you can try running one of the foam "dots" that several companies make on top of the bladder, that will keep it from flipping inside out, or caving in at all.

Hope this helps

Brett

RDXracerboy

Brett it happens with all 4 shocks, and has always happened with previous cars aswell.... I have the rounded part facing down so if you look at the shocks without the shock caps on its the hole facing up... any ideas? So this dosen't happen to you? Your shocks always have preload? And if so do you fill it up that its hard to push the preload in when rebuilding? Cause when I rebuild them they have preload in and its fine, but just like after a run the don't anymore...

kartermdb

iTrader: (15)

i build my shocks to be completely dead, no rebound at all, i save that for the springs

RDXracerboy

Oh ok thanks Mark. I just thought people always trying to get the rebounds to be the same and stuff, still performs like it should just thought it was supposed to keep the rebound, but thanks for clearing it up for me!

Riketsu

iTrader: (34)

When you rebuild em, try to go with much less rebound. A normal shock should only push out about half the shock shaft. If your rebound is high, then when your running the car, the seal will turn inside out like brett said.

RDXracerboy

Thank you for the suggestion Riketsu! Makes sense.. I do usually have high rebounds when I rebuild.. thanks.

kabttu

I'm having an issue with my car and I'm getting very frustrated. I just got the 3.9mm chassis and I'm putting the car back together and I install the steering post only to find out that it hits the front bulkheads. Am I doing something wrong here? You'll also notice that where the steering posts mount, it is not milled down, is it supposed to be? Any help would be great! Thanks!!

Customworksking

iTrader: (74)

I was told to build them to rebound all the way out is your way with all shocks ? I run Tamiya shocks on my rdx ...just wondering

MUDVAYNE

iTrader: (88)

[QUOTE=kabttu]I'm having an issue with my car and I'm getting very frustrated. I just got the 3.9mm chassis and I'm putting the car back together and I install the steering post only to find out that it hits the front bulkheads. Am I doing something wrong here? You'll also notice that where the steering posts mount, it is not milled down, is it supposed to be? Any help would be great! Thanks!!

I got my car already assembled, but from looking at it, I see that my chassis is milled out around the steering posts. I would call corally, or the lhs you purchased it from and ask them. Is it a corally part or not? Just curious.

kabttu

That's what I was afraid of. I've already moved everything back over to the original chassis. I bought it from Stormer hobbies, should I call them or call Corally directly?

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

When I expressed interest in the 3.9mm chassis, a couple people warned me that they had to mill down the area where the steering posts are located on their original units.

HarshGuy

iTrader: (6)

Both of mine are milled out at the steering posts, they're both put together, but you can see no clearance problems (you can kind of see the post into the milled are):

Turbonium

iTrader: (27)

im not sure that early or late matters, as mine was one of the first couple o' batches, and it did have the milled areas for the posts...

i would bet Jeff B. will be on here shortly, and let you know what would be best to do...

Jeff Brown

Regarding the clearance......

We had a few chassis that had the milling removed from the bellcranks in hopes to fix the bump steer angle on the steering link. Well, it obviously hits the bulkhead. We stopped shipping those and sent the ones we still had back to be fixed.

You simply have to dremel the nut and screws a bit to make clearance. Justin Zorc ran this exact chassis at Novak and finished 4th with it. Only has to be dremeled like 1mm or so.

Jeff

kabttu

So if I understand correctly I just need to dremel the nut holding the joint ball on each steering post?