Xpress

iTrader: (3)

That is the "tension" side of the belt. Pull the slack out of the belt and see if it still rubs? If it doesn't I wouldn't worry too much about it, but you can always dremel or sand a little material off of the chassis.

orcadigital

iTrader: (61)

Tamiya makes them. I am not sure which chassis, but I know I have seen them. Just keep in mind, if you replace those with something harder, you will probably break something else.

I have gone through 4 plastic outdrives so far, and all on the same side, so I feel your pain. I just am not sure there is a better option, as plastic outdrives are a lot cheaper then anything else that could break instead around the axle.

FauxMako

Rotate the diff rings so the "dot" is flipped to the high side. If it's at 5 o'clock now, rotate it to 1 o'clock. If it's at 8 o'clock now, rotate it to 10 o'clock. That'll raise the diff up slightly and get rid of the rub while retaining the same amount of belt tension.

Edit:
Reverse that Dot should be on the low side, not the high side since the dot is on the thicker side of the ring.

kosmickid

Thanks for the advice!

BCZero

iTrader: (2)

They are for the Tamiya TRF 416/417 chassis. But yeah, ppl ive seen use them end up breaking universals instead which cost more...

rbsix

iTrader: (4)

I rotated the holder with dot at the bottom, then filed the chassis a bit..thanks for the replies.

urban

ok i have this chassis ons its way, with the 19t center pulley & gear adapter u05
& vert motor mount
what other additional parts should i get? do i need any washers or bearings for the center pulley?

im running on a small carpet track with silvercan

goldsworthy1

Hey Guys,

Wondering if someone can help me.

Looking to replace the stock arms on my Zero S with the "Narrow" arms from the XI, and replacing the swing shafts with Universals... Has anyone done this? and know what size universal i would need.

rageracing

iTrader: (1)

Well the ole girl is officially done tested tuned and ready to race. Sunday will be my first race with the S in VTA. FDR is 3.88 temps after a full pack on the motor were 146 and 138 @ the esc. shortened the wiring on servo and direct wired the BL motor to the esc. she is smooth and quiet. I have never had a car run this free. probably because I have been running Off road. well now i have to buy 2 more for parts and maybe a USGT build. Thank you all for your input on this thread I have read it all and have taken all info I can to improve setup and driveability of this car. Now if my driving skills improve, we will be set.

Thanks Guys.

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

Only use the narrow arm on the rear.
Front you need the universals of the Sakura Zero(44 or 46MM) and rear you need the 44MM because of the narrow arms.
And yes i have done it on my Sakura.
After this mod you don't need the narrow suspensionblocks anymore.

regards Roy

goldsworthy1

Thanks Roy,

Am only replacing the stock rear arms with the XI arms and the rear swing shafts with the Universals... Just wanted to check what size Uni's i needed.

How did u find your car handled after changing the rear arms?

Thanks

Goldie

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

Handling was perfect but i also done the rear shock mod
Had the same setup on the Sakura as on the TRF

regards Roy

goldsworthy1

What does the rear shock mod involve doing?

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

Using front bulkhead covers and the shocktower of the TRF416X.
You get less flex in the rear shock tower so changes to the setup respond better.
You need to widen the holes of the shock tower where it mounts on the bulkhead a bit.
I mean i tiny bit.
This in combination with the Sakura X1 rear arms makes a rock solid car that responds beter to changes then the stock setup.
It also depends on what class your driving.

regards Roy

goldsworthy1

awesome thanks for your help mate!