SteveM

iTrader: (165)

I did receive a reply from TQ and unfortunately that free shipping applies only in the USA. Bummed out for sure!

Rodarbal

iTrader: (49)

That is awesome! I would have to drive three hours if I were to get back into racing on carpet.

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

I've pulled the trigger on the Zero S kit and placed my order this morning. I'm considering getting a few option parts once the car arrives. I'm considering getting a second set of the front diff covers so that I can mod the rear shock tower to place the shocks behind the tower and the vertical motor mount to make it easier to access both motor screws. I've read that I need to use a new top brace with this mount so I'm not too sure yet. Any thoughts?

FauxMako

Vert Motor mount is definitely nice, without it your spur will need to have holes your driver can fit through or adjusting gear mesh and tightening down the motor will be a major PITA.

With the Vert Motor mount you either need to trim the stock top plate or get the option one. The option one is narrower than the stock one where the motor mount curves up and over to get to the top of the motor.

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

Trimming the stock upper brace with a Dremel should be simple enough and saves the expense of buying a new brace. Having better access to the motor screws would be nice and this option will be number one on my options list.

What about the rear shock tower mod? Does this really make for a better handling car?

jdeadman

iTrader: (41)

I don;t have too much problem with the mesh adjustment as I just pull the motor mount from the car 3 screws. Change pinion loosen slightly both screws put the mount back in without screws get the mesh right tighten the visible screw then pull the mount and tighten the other screw.

never had a problem and it only takes me a few min to do that.


Now Yes it would be a bunch nicer but I get by

1101

Definitely get the spare belts: better quality.
Also...
the metal spur holder & shaft & 19T layshaft pully . Belt is too tight otherwise.
better turnbuckles (the 3racing generic ones are good)
maybe a complete diff for spares, its pretty cheap

Took mine for its 1st run today. Nice till I spun out & got t-boned...bigtime
No breakages though



Whats the deal with the rear body posts. Seem to be way too far back, the posts are about where the wing is
Batt holder makes it very hard to get the pinion in & out. I didnt need the optional vertical motor mount otherwise.

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

The only option I've ordered so far is the vertical motor mount. I might end up doing the rear shock tower mod which should move the rear body posts in a bit and put the shocks behind the shock tower. The gear diffs should be bullet-proof but I might get the different pulleys as I prefer the belts to be loose.

1101

can you tell me more about this shock tower mod??
I need to do it too
Cheers

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

Easy mod.
Get the alloy front bulkhead covers and a Tamiya TRF416X rear damper stay.
Open the holes on the damperstay a little bit and mount the whole thing at the back.
I used it with the Sakura X1 rear lower arms and got a ton of grip back for it.
It let's me drive the car like the TRF416X i have.
Same setup now
Another thing you get with this mod is that you don't need shorter springs.
You can use Tamiya,HPI and similar springs without any problems.

regards Roy

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

The online shop where I bought my vertical motor mount from has refunded my payment stating that this item is now out of stock. Odd considering it was in stock when I used the Buy It Now option on eBay.

I've since ordered the alloy spur adapter, 19T pulleys to suit and the rear alloy lower bulkheads. I'll have to look for that motor mount again.

UPDATE: My order for the spur adapter, 19T pulleys and rear lower bulkheads I mentioned above were cancelled by the seller on eBay (rcplatform). They refused to honor their own combined shipping policy and when I mentioned that it was already posted in their auctions they promptly cancelled all of my purchases. I recommend buyers stay clear of this seller from Hong Kong.

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

I understood that this mod was as simple as using the front upper bulkhead covers in the rear as these parts allow you to mount the shock stay to them

Fish1

iTrader: (17)

I tried the vertical motor mount and was able to use the stock top plate with minimal dremal work but could not use the stock battery strap because the pulley hits the battery strap mount when the diffs are reversed so the belt doesn't hit the mount, so is everyone using tape when they run the vertical mount?. On another note, TQ rc racing is much better for parts out of California then HKS, no backorders, ships same day if ordered before 3pm and actually responds to emails quickly, HKS sucks.

6376vette

Grind the rear battery mount to clear the belt. Remove the center mount. I replaced my center mount with a small nylock nut just for extra belt protection. This will allow you to keep the battery strap

FYI

The graphite chassis plates do not use a battery strap at all. battery must be taped in.

1101

Hi guys. My steering bellcrank has become really sloppy, alot of play/slop (after 1 run) - TT01 sloppy

Could it be just be the bearings ??, the dont seem like they are a tight fit on the metal post.
Ive ordered the metal steering upgrade anyway.

Yep, Ive had this happen with that supplier as well. Obviously they dont actually hold in stock the stuff they are selling.
To their credit, they notified me & refunded the next day.
Some other ebay/online 'shops' wont refund anything if they dont actually have stock and take your money.