Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

68/34 should fit perfectly as would 70/35 as stated above.

regards Roy

Glarke

iTrader: (1)

Does anyone know if these

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Spur-Gear-96T

fit? + will the holes be big enough to access the motor mount screw? Im trying to get away without having to buy the vertical motor mount.

Also are the 19t centre pulleys needed? Or has the front belt issue been sorted with the newer kits?

hotrod306

what servo are you guys using? for vta?
do you use the stock shock springs?

davlind

iTrader: (4)

Learned a few lessons on the weekend and one of them being:

- make sure when you buy paint for the body to check the cans and not do what I did. Accidentally purchased one can of ts and one can of ps labelled paint. The ts doesn't stick to lexan and on the first impact it all started flaking.
Guess its easy to repaint now.

I've set up as per factory setup but too much toe out.
Does any one know the distance between the ball cups along the turnbuckles to get 1 degree toe out at the front. I'm ordering some ride height and camber gauges but they'll take some time to arrive.
I want to change the turnbuckles on the zero; which brands are the easiest to adjust?

Thanks guys

luda

iTrader: (6)

borrow a setup station to check the angles. If your at SERCCC next week you can use mine

davlind

iTrader: (4)

Thanks Luda
I'll try and get down.
What time do you need to be there for starting.
If I can't make the full day do you mind if I drop in and take up your offer.
Cheers dave

FauxMako

The titanium turnbuckles from 3Racing have nice squared off adjustment points. The stock turnbuckles I think they forgot to hammer -- they are almost totally round.

hotrod306

well I just finish my build of Sakura S
took about a day
I really enjoyed the build
some of the screws where hard to put in and had 2 that strip out on me.
(used visegrip to get them out)
dont have a track but ran it on the street and was very impressed

Im so happy with it im going to order a few more for other class's

so one upgrade im thinking was to get those dog bones out and swing shaft in
what would the effect be?
why would one use narrow chassis over standard one? what parts would i need to change or could I use stock parts

im looking for a few set ups -stock tc carpet
-gta carpet 21.5
-mod asphalt

thanks for any info

wollow86

iTrader: (7)

With the narrower chassis you can have more chassis roll, at a lower ride height without it scraping and effecting the handling. Also the CF has less flex, so less of it is needed to maintain the cars flex properties.

For the dogbones... 3Racing just released their new SSK driveshafts for the XI DH (and the other 3Racing TC's), which will fit fine in the front of your car. Dog bone, vs cvd, against ssk... Basically as the wheel as more lock applied to it a normal driveshaft produces vibration. The more lock, the more vibration. Both the cvds and the ssk's will be better there, which means your inside front when cornering will be producing more grip.

The question is, do you really need either of those things? For 21.5, probably not. For mod, I'd guess so but I've never run mod before, just boosted 17.5.

6376vette

You're not really going to notice much by changing the dog bones in the rear. Maybe a smoother transfer of power. If you go aluminium its less spun weight. For me the best part was not having to look for the dog bone when you break a rear arm.

stock parts will fit the narrow chassis just fine.

6376vette

The car should come with cvd shafts up front already. I wouldn't want to run a dog bone on the front for the reasons you mentioned. The new ssk axles should be a great improvement. Even with a 21.5 the difference will be noticeable. It may even be more important in a 21.5 vs a mod. Mod you have plenty of power to spare so the motor can overcome tuning shortfalls. With a 21.5 momentum and smoothness are very important. A vibrating tire in a corner will bleed speed because it isn't generating consistent grip resulting in lower lap times. There is no reason to use ssk style shafts in the rear. The cvd or dog bones will be fine there.

NewRCSim

Hey there Everyone,

Finished my Sakura S build 2 weeks ago, installed a 19t brushed motor Reedy motor and ESC I had lying around from my Team Associated TC4, charged up some nimh batteries and headed to the track.

I am very happy with how she handled, and was considering putting in my 17.5 brushless setup from my current tc4. Ordered and recieved the vertical motor mount, and started doing the modifications to the battery holders, when I noticed something on the battery side of the chassis:

A chip in the chassis!!!

I knew I should have seeled the outer rim of the chassis with superglue

Is there a way to repair the damage? If it is repairable, will seeling the rest of the chassis and will using a protective film on the underside of the chassis help prevent more damage? Or should I just get a replacement chassis?

I know I may be over reacting, but the Sakura Zero S is the first rc I have built from a kit since building my Kyosho Optima Mid back when I was younger. I have to say that the Sakura is definately a step up from running my rtr TC4.

Thank you all for all your help. This forum thread rocks!!

shadowracer24

iTrader: (3)

From the pic it doesn"t look that bad. You could fill it with a two part epoxy and should have no problems. If it starts to crack or splinter more its time for a new chassis but they are pretty cheap compared to the graphite versions.

NewRCSim

Thanks Shadowracer24 Will epoxy and see how things go

djamiller

iTrader: (3)

Hey guys I'm ordering a Sakura Zero S to run RCGT with, I'm going to order the car along with the vertical motor mount, spur gear adapter, 19t pulleys, extra arms and knuckles, and sway bars. Anything else I should get or have I got it all pretty much covered?