Ofna Ultra GTP2e
10-16-2011, 07:46 AM
#1111
That seems like a good option. Seems to be a odd design choice for ofna .
Also the car came with 2 little spacers that connect the hub to the outer arm. Are you guys running them in the back or front ?. Manual shows to place one in front of the hub and one behind the hub, then slide that outer pin in.
Also the car came with 2 little spacers that connect the hub to the outer arm. Are you guys running them in the back or front ?. Manual shows to place one in front of the hub and one behind the hub, then slide that outer pin in.
10-16-2011, 06:02 PM
#1112
I moved both plastic washers to the front of the rear hub. Gives you a longer wheelbase, so more stability I assume at high speeds.
10-17-2011, 01:16 PM
#1114
I'm going to be using a 2650kv for my track
11-07-2011, 08:23 PM
#1115
So anyone running a center diff ?
11-08-2011, 01:50 PM
#1116
Het guys,
I just ordered my GTP2-e and I plan on putting my Tekin 2000kv truggy motor in it on 4s. This will be a new basher for on road for me. What size pinion would you guys recommend running? Also what spares and what premounted tires should I get?
Thanks
I just ordered my GTP2-e and I plan on putting my Tekin 2000kv truggy motor in it on 4s. This will be a new basher for on road for me. What size pinion would you guys recommend running? Also what spares and what premounted tires should I get?
Thanks
11-08-2011, 08:43 PM
#1119
11-09-2011, 06:04 AM
#1121
Experience with GTP2e
Ok, so I have enough experience now I think to contribute here, hope it helps others & answers some of the recent questions you guys have posted.
I have 2 GTP2e's setup identically. Running Castle Mamba Monster w/2,200 Castle motors w/castle blowers, Spectrum S6030 servos. They are bone stock, chassis, no hop-ups.
I've been running all summer in Long Island, parking lot racing (not bashing, but not fully prepped official tracks), and I've done some speed runs. In our parking lot races, it' not unusual for me & my son to be running/racing hard one or both of the cars 3 or 4 hours actual run time, spanning our race days most Sundays.
I love the car's - they have been an absolute blast to drive & "casual race". They've also been astonishingly durable, can't even guess how many high speed tumbles, end over end tumbles, airborne from catching the wind, a few head-on collisions at 20-30mph, and even a couple of hard impacts with curbs (we've got lots of those here in NY). I've had to replace front center drive shaft a couple of times, 1 universal, 1 a-arm, and the "rear arm plates" a couple of times. That's with literally having worn out 3 of the PF8 bodies from impacts & skidding on their lids. (This was our first year in the hobby, we are getting much better at driving now, btw, rare to crash at all now).
Have tried pretty much every tire combo, and will only buy/use GRP pre-mounted rally tires (only ones I can get to consistently hook-up), B compound for summer temps (asphalt temps 100+), and A compound for cooler weather. The Ofna treaded & slicks (both belted and un-belted) can hook up, but wear out 2 or 3 times as fast as the GRP's, and I'm sick of spending the $ on them and/or gluing tires. The GRP's don't balloon at all, and you can run them for quite a while after the belt starts to show. I've taken them down to belt & had the tire basically cut through on the edge to the foam, and still never had a blow out.
I have used 4cell 40c GensAce hard case - good battery, but the track we setup is large as some of the guys (including me) drive 5th scales as well. So I've been primarily using GensAce 5cell 35c 5,000mah. Snug fit in the tray, great power for the price, and of my apx 10 GensAce batteries I've only had one puff on me. Will note, I have not had such good luck with some of my other hobbypartz.com purchases including chargers & power supplies, but the batteries have been good for the low price tag.
Stock spur gear & currently 17t pinions. No heat issues, plenty of low end grunt, and more top end speed than we have room for on our track. I've used up to I think 21t for speed runs, but they get boring after a while, and temps & tires are both a concern.
As I said, stock setups, still using whatever came in the shocks & diffs, but this winter will tear them down and put in fresh oils (not decided what weights yet). On the shocks, stock black springs, pre-loaded to the max. Droop varies, but usually around 20 to 25mm front & rear.
I'm looking to find good/reasonable $ center diff for them, as I'm convinced that would help with traction under power & take off. My son has a Losi 8ight, converted L8ight (w/GT body), converted brush-less (same power combo & tires) and with his having a center diff, he's got way better take-off & acceleration while turning traction. I believe the K-style diff from the Ofna LX1 (now replaced by the LX2) is a direct fit, but I'm not 100% sure.
Ok, enough for now, will report back what weight fluids & what diff we end up going with. Thanks to everyone for sharing your experiences on this thread.
I have 2 GTP2e's setup identically. Running Castle Mamba Monster w/2,200 Castle motors w/castle blowers, Spectrum S6030 servos. They are bone stock, chassis, no hop-ups.
I've been running all summer in Long Island, parking lot racing (not bashing, but not fully prepped official tracks), and I've done some speed runs. In our parking lot races, it' not unusual for me & my son to be running/racing hard one or both of the cars 3 or 4 hours actual run time, spanning our race days most Sundays.
I love the car's - they have been an absolute blast to drive & "casual race". They've also been astonishingly durable, can't even guess how many high speed tumbles, end over end tumbles, airborne from catching the wind, a few head-on collisions at 20-30mph, and even a couple of hard impacts with curbs (we've got lots of those here in NY). I've had to replace front center drive shaft a couple of times, 1 universal, 1 a-arm, and the "rear arm plates" a couple of times. That's with literally having worn out 3 of the PF8 bodies from impacts & skidding on their lids. (This was our first year in the hobby, we are getting much better at driving now, btw, rare to crash at all now).
Have tried pretty much every tire combo, and will only buy/use GRP pre-mounted rally tires (only ones I can get to consistently hook-up), B compound for summer temps (asphalt temps 100+), and A compound for cooler weather. The Ofna treaded & slicks (both belted and un-belted) can hook up, but wear out 2 or 3 times as fast as the GRP's, and I'm sick of spending the $ on them and/or gluing tires. The GRP's don't balloon at all, and you can run them for quite a while after the belt starts to show. I've taken them down to belt & had the tire basically cut through on the edge to the foam, and still never had a blow out.
I have used 4cell 40c GensAce hard case - good battery, but the track we setup is large as some of the guys (including me) drive 5th scales as well. So I've been primarily using GensAce 5cell 35c 5,000mah. Snug fit in the tray, great power for the price, and of my apx 10 GensAce batteries I've only had one puff on me. Will note, I have not had such good luck with some of my other hobbypartz.com purchases including chargers & power supplies, but the batteries have been good for the low price tag.
Stock spur gear & currently 17t pinions. No heat issues, plenty of low end grunt, and more top end speed than we have room for on our track. I've used up to I think 21t for speed runs, but they get boring after a while, and temps & tires are both a concern.
As I said, stock setups, still using whatever came in the shocks & diffs, but this winter will tear them down and put in fresh oils (not decided what weights yet). On the shocks, stock black springs, pre-loaded to the max. Droop varies, but usually around 20 to 25mm front & rear.
I'm looking to find good/reasonable $ center diff for them, as I'm convinced that would help with traction under power & take off. My son has a Losi 8ight, converted L8ight (w/GT body), converted brush-less (same power combo & tires) and with his having a center diff, he's got way better take-off & acceleration while turning traction. I believe the K-style diff from the Ofna LX1 (now replaced by the LX2) is a direct fit, but I'm not 100% sure.
Ok, enough for now, will report back what weight fluids & what diff we end up going with. Thanks to everyone for sharing your experiences on this thread.
11-09-2011, 09:21 AM
#1122
Tech Adept
^ yes a k style diff will fit, flea bay will get you going for cheap,I would also suggest this
http://www.igthobbies.com/OFNA-OFN31...IT_p_1680.html
http://www.igthobbies.com/OFNA-OFN31...IT_p_1680.html
11-09-2011, 05:33 PM
#1123
Tech Addict
i purchased this car and i kinda regret not to have purchased the ofna dm
11-09-2011, 06:32 PM
#1124
Would a Center Diff from a Kyosho Inferno fit ?
11-09-2011, 09:24 PM
#1125
Tech Adept
Not a drop in unit that's for sure, I'm still trying to figure it out, I know you need different bearings the ones from the kyosho diff kit wont fit, the stock ones are too large ,you need 8x19 bearings,but 6mm width is too narrow, I was looking at 1 8x19x6 and 1 8x19x9,but havent had time to deal with it right now, I know the ones from the 9.5 series fit the kyosho center diff spur gear ,but I forget which one was a wider setup.
On another note, does someone have a chassis for sale?I need one for mock up, used is ok,bent no, hopefully not modded with extra holes?I dont have a gtp2-e, I have old skool gtp cnc 4mm chassis so mine wont work for layout purposes
On another note, does someone have a chassis for sale?I need one for mock up, used is ok,bent no, hopefully not modded with extra holes?I dont have a gtp2-e, I have old skool gtp cnc 4mm chassis so mine wont work for layout purposes
Last edited by Joat; 11-09-2011 at 11:27 PM.