4LikesTamiya TRF417
04-13-2015, 01:30 AM
#6482
Tech Adept
Nothing else you'll need to purchase. I checked the chassis' this morning and the holes ALL line up on the lower deck for the motor mount. Only thing extra is the location tab and extra hole on the newer chassis' for the single point servo mount. Get the newer V5 chassis, it works great on carpet. The other aftermarket stuff is nice, but you'll have a harder time finding those now. Smokem doesn't seem to be in operation anymore since the beginning of the year.
As for the 419 gear diff... it's nice, but I've seen just as many of those leak as the gear diff II. You just have to build them properly and shim them so they don't leak. They're very smooth though when done well. You really don't need the new diff. It looks nice because it's black and the teeth are larger, which makes it more durable.
If you're planning on spending quite a bit of money, I'd tell you to go ahead and get a 419. The prices are dropping on those fast. They're about 90-100 USD more than a brand new 417V5 kit, as I saw this at a TCS sale. You'll spend quite a bit to get a chassis and motor mount to update the 417 to V5 status, but the motor mount is still different from the first 417 to the final version. That's another expense to update.
I would honestly advise you to just drive the 417 as-is and get more track time along with setup experience. I do not know your RC or track experience, but these goodies and updates won't do you much good if one can't drive the car well enough and be consistent with it. If and when one does get consistent, upgrade to a better car! You won't feel like you've wasted money to update the older car if you've only driven on it for a short time and finally decide to upgrade.
As for the 419 gear diff... it's nice, but I've seen just as many of those leak as the gear diff II. You just have to build them properly and shim them so they don't leak. They're very smooth though when done well. You really don't need the new diff. It looks nice because it's black and the teeth are larger, which makes it more durable.
If you're planning on spending quite a bit of money, I'd tell you to go ahead and get a 419. The prices are dropping on those fast. They're about 90-100 USD more than a brand new 417V5 kit, as I saw this at a TCS sale. You'll spend quite a bit to get a chassis and motor mount to update the 417 to V5 status, but the motor mount is still different from the first 417 to the final version. That's another expense to update.
I would honestly advise you to just drive the 417 as-is and get more track time along with setup experience. I do not know your RC or track experience, but these goodies and updates won't do you much good if one can't drive the car well enough and be consistent with it. If and when one does get consistent, upgrade to a better car! You won't feel like you've wasted money to update the older car if you've only driven on it for a short time and finally decide to upgrade.
Will probably get the v5 lower deck, servo and motor mount this week and try to rebuild it again using the box setting as a good baseline.
Thanks again! Keep em tips and tricks coming
04-21-2015, 01:46 PM
#6483
I really like my trf417!
04-22-2015, 04:03 PM
#6484
Another 417 motor mount option is to contact Chis at Sepes racing. I found him on Facebook and contacted him directly. He still has some 417 kits in stock on sale for $49 euro, or about $51 USD shipped. I just received mine, took about 2 weeks to get here. This motor mount moves the motor 4.5mm in and has a new top deck to go along with it. I see this as a upgrade to bring the car more inline with the newer kits on the market. I see no reason to move to the 419 at this point. I'm no pro racer, so will run this chassis till I break something and can't get the part anymore.
04-25-2015, 08:45 PM
#6485
Hey guys, i just got this tamiya a week ago and raced my first race tonight indoor on mid grip carpet track. Thing is on rails, and after a gear change to 86/50 i now have the speed others seem to have. Picked up 2 laps just with the gear change. More track time and i should be one of the front runners in the 17.5 stock rubber tire touring class here. My biggest issue is the battery, and my question is, what part numbers do i need to find to have the battery hold downs like the tc6.2 or team c tr10 has? Right now my chassis has nuthing on the battery side and i have to tape it in. I hate tape. LoL anything available to retro fit this chassis with current style battery hold downs and velcro strap? My car is actually a 416x that has been updated to 417 lipo chassis and rear bulkheads and gear diff. (That is what the original owner told me anyway.) Besides that, i am loving this thing. The fastest guy at my track runs a tc6.2 and a tr10 and he told me he would love to have his cars turn in and have the corner speed mine does. LoL he said he would be chasing me after i get the hang of the car and onroad racing. I came to onroad from being one of the front runners every week on indoor offroad short course mod, and i wont be going back. Onroad is way too much fun. And carpet is much cleaner!
05-04-2015, 01:37 PM
#6486
Does anyone have 416x rear bulkheads and 417 rear bulkheads that could lay them on top of each other and take a pic or measure hole spacing? Trying to confirm tjis has 417 stuff on it so i can order a motor mount that moves motor in further. Thanks.
05-15-2015, 05:09 AM
#6488
depending on the KV you 17,5 T is doing 1900-2200 KV i would start at 86/42
thats 2.05 and will end somewhere at 50 km/h
I have my 12T Lehner Car (2400KV) at 69/34 48Pitch
That will end somewhere at 55-57 km/h
05-19-2015, 05:24 PM
#6490
Thanks for.the info guys. I think i have the gear figured out. Coming off the track after 6 minutes at 150ish. May drop a tooth or 2 and see if it hurts the speed any. I was too high, and infield speed sucked. We have an 80 foot straight that goes into a long sweeper that i could take almost full throttle with the car as 17.5 with mazda speed6 body. But with nothing changed except motor to 25.5, vta tires and 70 camaro body it pushes like a frieght train. Not just in the sweeper, but everywhere! Im also a second or more off the pace with the fast vta guys. Does anyone have some good setups for these cars? Like i said, we run a big track, 85'x40+'. Tight infield with long 80' straight and sweeper that goes all the way from the back straight to the front into the infield. Carpet, medium grip i would say. Its not ozite, its a thicker carpet but rough feeling. Touring i could run 24r to 27r sorex tires and my car was on rails. Oh, i also went from a spool in touring, to a gear diff with 30k associated gear oil in it. Was tearing up outdrives every 2 weeks with the spool. Would that change make it push? Should i find a putty for gear diffs to put in it instead? Rear has the stock light tamiya oil in it. Any help would be appreciated.
05-26-2015, 07:43 PM
#6491
What do you mean when you say push? Is it push understeer or oversteer?
Unfortunately I run VTA on low grip outdoors asphalt track so my setup wouldn't be great for your use.
I'd go back to a spool in the front, so it keeps things consistent. I found when I ran a front putty diff that cornering was inconsistent.
I had oversteering issues under power with my car, which I fixed by running a hard front stabilizer bar and softer springs on the rear end.
Unfortunately I run VTA on low grip outdoors asphalt track so my setup wouldn't be great for your use.
I'd go back to a spool in the front, so it keeps things consistent. I found when I ran a front putty diff that cornering was inconsistent.
I had oversteering issues under power with my car, which I fixed by running a hard front stabilizer bar and softer springs on the rear end.
06-01-2015, 06:26 PM
#6492
I'm running 25.5 Novak Ballistic and i'm thinking of running 95/46*1.85=3.82 FDR on my raceberry 417.
I burned up my last silver can with 95/50*1.85=3.6 FDR
06-01-2015, 07:31 PM
#6493
The different gearing depends on the motor, not the car.
Some 21.5 motors like to rev, so a fdr between 3.3 and 3.7 is fine e.g R1 wurks . A torque motor might like a fdr around 2.8 to 3.3 e.g Hobbywing V10, Fantom v5.
Not sure what a silver can fdr is, but with any motor, run for 2 minutes then temp, then run for 4, 5 and 6 minutes and temp again.
As I found, your driving style will also determine the heat build up in a motor. Also drag brake will effect motor temps. Any excessive friction /bind in the drive train will impact temps.
Golden rule, always temp motors until you find your sweet spot for a track.
Some 21.5 motors like to rev, so a fdr between 3.3 and 3.7 is fine e.g R1 wurks . A torque motor might like a fdr around 2.8 to 3.3 e.g Hobbywing V10, Fantom v5.
Not sure what a silver can fdr is, but with any motor, run for 2 minutes then temp, then run for 4, 5 and 6 minutes and temp again.
As I found, your driving style will also determine the heat build up in a motor. Also drag brake will effect motor temps. Any excessive friction /bind in the drive train will impact temps.
Golden rule, always temp motors until you find your sweet spot for a track.
06-01-2015, 08:33 PM
#6494
Smoother throttle/brake will help, yes. So therefore initial brake AND initial drive/punch set by the ESC also makes a difference.
06-01-2015, 09:44 PM
#6495
This is my first season driving on a carpet track & I've only played on the street before, so this is still new to me. However, this makes sense to me now and I can see how it would vary for different motors.
Has anyone here used the 417 for VTA with the Novak Ballistic 25.5? I see similar cars running a 3.8 FDR is that about where I should be with the 417/raceberry?
Has anyone here used the 417 for VTA with the Novak Ballistic 25.5? I see similar cars running a 3.8 FDR is that about where I should be with the 417/raceberry?