CraigM

iTrader: (34)

Set your steering throw to 27 degrees which is about 1mm before the knuckle hits the chub

For asphalt run either ride red or HPI silver springs, and for more rotation go to a harder diff. Start with 2k for most tracks, I've been using 4-5k lately

I always run the 0.5mm wheel spacers, the car feels too twitchy without them. For more steering you can lower the bottom arm roll centre to 0mm/0.5mm for anti dive or 0mm/0mm for more overall grip

vivo quevas

iTrader: (19)

Is this true by using B blocks reducing track width will increase steering?

Typeone

iTrader: (50)

What would be the advantage running a smokem FX chassis and a 417v5 top deck vs a stock X top and bottom deck? Or what would a V5 top deck and X chassis do as far as performance?

Jochim_18

iTrader: (10)

417X stock chassis is little stiff I personally run the exotek chassis at hobby town in Fresno..

Smartypants

Yes more steering but less stability with a narrower pivot block.

dizope

iTrader: (5)

I have been running AE 40wt shock oil (500 cst) in the rear diffs. This works fine for the TC6.1.

Okay. Ordered AE 2k diff oil and HPI silver springs yesterday. Ran out of time to order the large springs cups but am going to now.

Should I order any suspension blocks?

What do you mean lower the bottom arm roll center to 0mm/0.5mm?

dizope

iTrader: (5)

Yep, -3.0*. I'm thinking about changing it to -2.5*.

The stock blocks are front 1B/1B (inside/outside) and rear blocks are 1XB/1D (inside/outside). Is the correct move to change the 1XB to 1XA?

vivo quevas

iTrader: (19)

What is the difference in flex in the chassis using 1xb or a B block in it's place. I was thinking on using A block and a B block in the rear. B blocks in the front. Not using split blocks anywhere in the car?

dizope

iTrader: (5)

I would be guessing on the change in flex by using or not using split blocks.

The inside front blocks are the only split blocks in the kit setup. I don't know if the stock v5 chassis supports other split blocks or the use of non-split blocks.

I ordered the 1XA block to reduce the rear toe. I'm expecting the rear track width to stay the same. Hopefully it and the other stuff arrives before Saturday night's race.

Csaari77

iTrader: (35)

By moving to the 1XA on the front block, it will change your track width. It would have been a much easier change to get a C block. That way your inside track width stays the same and the block is much easier to swap if you want to revert back to 3 deg. of toe.

Not sure if you have a block chart. I got this off TryHards' site. It's pretty handy.

vivo quevas

iTrader: (19)

Aren't the A blocks 43mm and B blocks 43.75mm. Wouldn't you want to use a A block in front and B in the rear on the back of the car.

dizope

iTrader: (5)

So the inside block on the rear defines the track width and the outside block defines the toe?

dizope

iTrader: (5)

I was able to add a 1C block to the order before it shipped.

Is there a chart somewhere to determine the track width?

I've seen the toe chart, that is how I came to the conclusion on the 1XA block.

DPRacing

hi guys, have a few questions about the shocks (417x basic)

- Which O-rings are recommendable? Tamiya # 42137 O-ring or X-ring #42214? or what is the difference?

Or O-rings other manufacturers?( I read a few years time, Jilles drive Muchmore o-ring 50) .

- build with one o-ring + shaft guide or 2 o-rings?


- what advantage brings a downstop O-Ring?

Thanks for answer!

dizope

iTrader: (5)

I was able to get some more throw out of the servo last night by extending the EPA to 150% (R) and 125% (L). It was at 100% previously.

I installed the servo saver per the manual, one tooth (5*) to the left with the servo in neutral. I built the servo turnbuckle with a 4.5mm gap, like the manual recommends.

I read earlier in this thread where someone else went from a Savox 1258 to a 1251 and had the same lack of throw problem.

All of my other models have 1258's and don't need past 100% EPA. I use an Airtronics MT-4 transmitter.

I used an angle finder to set the throw to roughly 27 degrees (~1mm) from the c-hub. In doing this, I realized the left side has more throw than the right side. Trim is at zero. Subtrim is at R20. REV is normal.

With the EPA extended, I now have a tighter turning radius but is that the correct fix or do I have some other mechanical issue.