OnRDPassion

iTrader: (59)

I ended up mounting mine right on top of the receiver, no issues what soever and gets it really close to the chassis. If you want to see what I'm talking about I can post a picture.

Csaari77

iTrader: (35)

The reason I considered using the mount was to ensure that I could remove the transponder quickly and easily. I've always just used velcro to attach it to the servo. I tried to attached one to the bumper brace once on an Evo IV and the wires got severed in a nasty crash.

Typeone

iTrader: (50)

Question should I put the urethane bushings in the work shocks or should it be fine running without them?

narcotiks

iTrader: (8)

You generally don't run the foam insert at all.

Typeone

iTrader: (50)

Ok thanks

missouri racer

iTrader: (7)

What are the main difference between the 417, 417x and 417v5?

racer x 1

iTrader: (27)

ok so im pretty to my 417x and had a question about tamiyas spring offerings.
what is the difference performance wise between the white long type and black short type springs? is there a real difference on the track.
Oh and after two packs I literally feel in love with on road again! I have not driven any sedan that was this good from the get go!

JoeyE

iTrader: (45)

I also mounted mine on the Rx with no issues.

NItrox416

You can also put the trasponder in front of the battery.

A question for all. How much do your cars weight? I'm struggling to keep mine under 1400g considering that in my championship the limit is 1350
Any suggestions?
PS
I already have low profile servo, lw body, light esc(sxx) and motor (x12), short wires , battery 320g.

JoeyE

iTrader: (45)

Mine is 1340. I have to add weights to mine.

Potoczak

iTrader: (120)

Nib v5 for sale. Pm for details

nolo148

Mine is 1380 with a 50c(300g) battery and 1390 with a 65c battery(310g). The weight limit is 1380g. Mine used to be like 1450 but I removed the battery stops which were like 15g ea, moved to a low profile servo (saved almost 20g) and I switched to a lw body. Right now the heavier parts are probably steel cups on the spool, dcj all around, mostly steel screws that are like 1-2mm above the hole for the alluminum parts, steel turnbuckles for steering, and messy receiver wiring and a big capacitor.

I'd suggest a lighter battery. check out the battery vs weight thread, it's pretty interesting.

NovakSA

Hi guys, I am really struggling to get steering out of my 417X for our Tamiya Cup race this weekend coming. We have to run either A or B compound tamiya tires and only Tamiya parts as you all know. My car just seem to grain the front tires,but I have to really back off the throttle to get the car to turn on power and off power. Does anybody have a setup for these crappy tires. We run the Tamiya 18T system and gear them 51T/90T. The track is tight and narrow with banked and off camber turns. Will a tire additive help? I am so frustrated.

narcotiks

iTrader: (8)

Can you post your current setup on a setup sheet? that will make it easier for everyone to point you in the right direction

NItrox416

Thanks for help, I've all the screw of the original kit
If I change the the screw set with a lighter how many grams
I would save?
Which is a good method to shorten wires? I've tried some time ago but I
was unable to place the connector, so I ended up soldering directly a new short wire on the servo. Any suggestion?