4LikesTamiya TRF417
12-26-2010, 01:34 PM
#422
Tech Master
Erm is there a strap to holddown the lipos or should I use tape? If so whats the part no for the blue tamiya tape?
Oh an will most hardcase liPos fit?
Cheers
Oh an will most hardcase liPos fit?
Cheers
12-26-2010, 06:40 PM
#425
Agreed on the steering setup... final check always on track with the foot method... 
However, one way to reduce the difference as much as possible is put the car on the setup station, and then play with a combination of subtrim and drag link length between the servo and steering. Ideally, the servo horn should be at 90° to the drag link when centred for equal throw, not vertical (hence why the instructions say for the horn to be off centre by 5°).
Then steer left and right with a toe gauge attached to get max left and max right lock. When close by setting subtrim and link length, then go to the EPA adjustment.
By this method, never need more than a couple of percent adjustment on EPA when checked on the track
HiH
Ed
However, one way to reduce the difference as much as possible is put the car on the setup station, and then play with a combination of subtrim and drag link length between the servo and steering. Ideally, the servo horn should be at 90° to the drag link when centred for equal throw, not vertical (hence why the instructions say for the horn to be off centre by 5°).
Then steer left and right with a toe gauge attached to get max left and max right lock. When close by setting subtrim and link length, then go to the EPA adjustment.
By this method, never need more than a couple of percent adjustment on EPA when checked on the track
HiH
Ed
Last edited by TryHard; 12-26-2010 at 06:53 PM.
12-26-2010, 06:54 PM
#426
I'm looking for a part number for the shock o ring used on the 415/416 (417 ?) I'm assuming they are the same for all three (?).
Thanks.
Thanks.
12-26-2010, 07:04 PM
#427
12-26-2010, 07:11 PM
#428
12-26-2010, 07:24 PM
#429
Agreed on the steering setup... final check always on track with the foot method...
However, one way to reduce the difference as much as possible is put the car on the setup station, and then play with a combination of subtrim and drag link length between the servo and steering. Ideally, the servo horn should be at 90° to the drag link when centred for equal throw, not vertical (hence why the instructions say for the horn to be off centre by 5°).
Then steer left and right with a toe gauge attached to get max left and max right lock. When close by setting subtrim and link length, then go to the EPA adjustment.
By this method, never need more than a couple of percent adjustment on EPA when checked on the track
HiH
Ed
However, one way to reduce the difference as much as possible is put the car on the setup station, and then play with a combination of subtrim and drag link length between the servo and steering. Ideally, the servo horn should be at 90° to the drag link when centred for equal throw, not vertical (hence why the instructions say for the horn to be off centre by 5°).
Then steer left and right with a toe gauge attached to get max left and max right lock. When close by setting subtrim and link length, then go to the EPA adjustment.
By this method, never need more than a couple of percent adjustment on EPA when checked on the track
HiH
Ed
12-26-2010, 09:09 PM
#430
Thanks Ed! I gots lots to learn on this subject!
"To set them, slowly compress either arm as you watch the other to see the amount of free play before the opposite arm rises. More than likely, one side will have more free play than the other so you want to adjust the length of the linkage rods accordingly until the amount of free play is equal. You can also adjust the free play on the sway bar mounts as well by rotating the sway bar clips enough to reduce slop."
Not sure I full understand how this part works. How do you measure accurately the "free play?" And so if one side has more free play than the other, what do you do to the turnbuckles? Finally, "rotating the sway bar clips?" Whazzat?
"To set them, slowly compress either arm as you watch the other to see the amount of free play before the opposite arm rises. More than likely, one side will have more free play than the other so you want to adjust the length of the linkage rods accordingly until the amount of free play is equal. You can also adjust the free play on the sway bar mounts as well by rotating the sway bar clips enough to reduce slop."
Not sure I full understand how this part works. How do you measure accurately the "free play?" And so if one side has more free play than the other, what do you do to the turnbuckles? Finally, "rotating the sway bar clips?" Whazzat?
http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/fe...article-id=413
12-26-2010, 10:20 PM
#431
Everytime I peel a new piece, the first cm of tape would be messed up if I dont fold a tab on a previous cut. Same for removal, strands get torn off and stays on the surface if you dont fold a tab on the ends. (Although i always do anyways, its just nice if the tape doesnt do that)
Does anyone know of an alternative that doesnt do this?
12-27-2010, 02:49 AM
#433
Agreed on the steering setup... final check always on track with the foot method...
However, one way to reduce the difference as much as possible is put the car on the setup station, and then play with a combination of subtrim and drag link length between the servo and steering. Ideally, the servo horn should be at 90° to the drag link when centred for equal throw, not vertical (hence why the instructions say for the horn to be off centre by 5°).
Then steer left and right with a toe gauge attached to get max left and max right lock. When close by setting subtrim and link length, then go to the EPA adjustment.
By this method, never need more than a couple of percent adjustment on EPA when checked on the track
HiH
Ed
However, one way to reduce the difference as much as possible is put the car on the setup station, and then play with a combination of subtrim and drag link length between the servo and steering. Ideally, the servo horn should be at 90° to the drag link when centred for equal throw, not vertical (hence why the instructions say for the horn to be off centre by 5°).
Then steer left and right with a toe gauge attached to get max left and max right lock. When close by setting subtrim and link length, then go to the EPA adjustment.
By this method, never need more than a couple of percent adjustment on EPA when checked on the track
HiH
Ed
12-27-2010, 03:14 AM
#434
I tend to leave my battery in the car for long periods. Just charge it in the car between heats. So, on my last car, I used Parma double sided servo tape to attach the battery to the chassis. This is the clear gooey stuff that is easy to remove. I never had an issue with the battery shifting or coming lose and it allows enough movement that it doesn't noticeable effect chassis flex. When you do need to remove the battery for maintenance, it removes cleanly. Give it a try.
I don't recommend you do this if you change batteries often though.
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...nid=395&id=872
I don't recommend you do this if you change batteries often though.
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...nid=395&id=872
12-27-2010, 04:16 AM
#435
Have a look at this link, Hara's build guide to the cyclone. Want to achieve the same effect on the 417 when the link is in the centre, but due to the steering setup, need to cant the servo horn into the centre of the car.
http://www.hpiracing.co.jp/contents/...yclone03.htm#2
HiH
Ed