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Old 10-20-2011, 01:54 AM
  #2071  
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Hmmmmmm wierd
What axle length are you running up front?

Originally Posted by Nilks
Hi,

I have tried with a gear-diff with 500k oil.
Did you have the same problem?
It should have been eliminated with a diff

Downstop has been checked, and we have even tried some extreme downstops (in both directions).
We have also tried with the shocks detached.
That would only give you more chatter
I started on my 4th battery in this indoor season, between two outings. I didn't have a crash. I have just barely touched the inside of a corner on the curb a couple of times, but nothing serious.
After that it started?
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Old 10-20-2011, 02:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Pro10noob
Hmmmmmm wierd
What axle length are you running up front?
44mm.
The problem didn't go away with a gear-diff.
It first appeared on my 4th run of the indoor-season. There was nothing in the first 3 runs, but on the 4th it started making some grinding noices. I took it in immediatly, and then I noticed the extreme vibrations.
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Old 10-20-2011, 02:25 AM
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Grinding noises sounds like bearings or a CVD that is eating your steering knuckles up.
There isn't a pin that goes true your CVD almost out?
Look for wear and tear there or even a bend axle stub.
Also a damaged spoolcup can do strange things.
It it deffo somewhere in the drive train.
As a diff would have eliminate chatter.

regards Roy


Originally Posted by Nilks
44mm.
The problem didn't go away with a gear-diff.
It first appeared on my 4th run of the indoor-season. There was nothing in the first 3 runs, but on the 4th it started making some grinding noices. I took it in immediatly, and then I noticed the extreme vibrations.
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Old 10-20-2011, 02:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Pro10noob
Grinding noises sounds like bearings or a CVD that is eating your steering knuckles up.
There isn't a pin that goes true your CVD almost out?
Look for wear and tear there or even a bend axle stub.
Also a damaged spoolcup can do strange things.
It it deffo somewhere in the drive train.
As a diff would have eliminate chatter.

regards Roy
Bearings have been changed, and the CVD's have been renovated, and I even tried some other ones. Didn't help.
Spool-cups have been changed - same issue.
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Old 10-20-2011, 02:47 AM
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Now without a clue

regards

Originally Posted by Nilks
Bearings have been changed, and the CVD's have been renovated, and I even tried some other ones. Didn't help.
Spool-cups have been changed - same issue.
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Old 10-20-2011, 04:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Nilks
Bearings have been changed, and the CVD's have been renovated, and I even tried some other ones. Didn't help.
Spool-cups have been changed - same issue.
Is your front drive shaft rubbing the stabilizer by any chance? I find out that certain setting the drive shaft might come in contact with the front stabilizer.
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Old 10-20-2011, 04:25 AM
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Forgot to ask you something.
How are the front arms shimmed??
Are they tight to the rear or to the front?
Or just in the middle?.

regards Roy
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Old 10-20-2011, 04:38 AM
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Originally Posted by eComet
Is your front drive shaft rubbing the stabilizer by any chance? I find out that certain setting the drive shaft might come in contact with the front stabilizer.
I can see on the driveshaft, that it does touch sometimes, but I have tried manually pushing it away, and that didn't help.

Originally Posted by Pro10noob
Forgot to ask you something.
How are the front arms shimmed??
Are they tight to the rear or to the front?
Or just in the middle?.
regards Roy
I don't have the car in front of me right now - I will check when I get home from work tonight.
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Old 10-20-2011, 05:24 AM
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Nilks, check also your spool bearing holder. Should be round dot up and triangle down, position should also be same left and right.
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Old 10-20-2011, 06:43 AM
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besides xenon, would this duratrax and hpi spur fit? Not usually my first choice of spurs, but I need to make an order soon and don't have the car.

are there any other brands that fit the 417?

looking at the manual, it looks like you need holes at the 12,3,6 & 9 o'clock positions.
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya TRF417-dtxc3005.jpg   Tamiya TRF417-hpic6978.jpg  
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Old 10-20-2011, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by hacker
besides xenon, would this duratrax and hpi spur fit? Not usually my first choice of spurs, but I need to make an order soon and don't have the car.

are there any other brands that fit the 417?

looking at the manual, it looks like you need holes at the 12,3,6 & 9 o'clock positions.
Try these, specifically the V2. They have holes that allow you to access both motor screws (90 tooth+).

http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...d=392&id=11479.

Last edited by malkiy; 10-20-2011 at 08:52 AM.
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Old 10-20-2011, 08:20 AM
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I am currently using a Xenon 88T 64P spur/44T pinion on my 417. All I did was drill two more holes in the spur gear and it's fine. I also got the motor mount milled out so I can have more adjustments to run 17.5...sweet~!
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Old 10-20-2011, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Nilks
Bearings have been changed, and the CVD's have been renovated, and I even tried some other ones. Didn't help.
Spool-cups have been changed - same issue.
Have you tried a ball diff up front to see if it helps...I suspect it wont but is something very easy to try. Also another good idea is to try a new front belt and ensure that the pullies are clear of debris.

Make sure the screws that going into the steering blocks are not too long and hitting the axle.

You have to isolate the issue...rule out one thing then move to the next.

I personally think based on the video...that you are trying to use entirely too much steering, and hitting the natural limitations of a traditional CVA. Just go buy some Xray or Hot bodies double joint universals and make them fit.

I have run on a lot of different surfaces and have never had the issues you are trying to overcome. Just not sure what to tell you anymore. There are a lot of people around the world that seem to be able to make this car work just fine without any modifications.
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Old 10-20-2011, 10:03 AM
  #2084  
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Originally Posted by hacker
besides xenon, would this duratrax and hpi spur fit? Not usually my first choice of spurs, but I need to make an order soon and don't have the car.

are there any other brands that fit the 417?

looking at the manual, it looks like you need holes at the 12,3,6 & 9 o'clock positions.
RW racing ultralight spur gears work the best in my testing and running. I think they fit perfectly and have holes to access the motor screws. They are also very quite...
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya TRF417-whitespur64.jpg  
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Old 10-20-2011, 11:53 AM
  #2085  
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After watching the video that is totally normal with that much steering throw the universals are at there max and binding up. You would need to get some of the spec-R double joint ones or wait till tamiya comes out with there own. At the IIC Viktor and Marc were testing some tamiya prototypes.
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