Tamiya TRF417
#1741
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
To adjust rear toe, which block do I need to change? I see that different combinations can give the same toe but different track widths. I'm thinking, to keep it more simple, is to adjust width with hexes and shims and to use the blocks just for toe adjustment. Right now I'm running 1XA and 1E in the rear.
It does depend on how much toe you want to take out of the car... if it's a full degree, it's quite easy (go 1X/1D for 2°). If you only want to adjust the toe a little, then just try a 1D block on the rear, and leave everything else as is. That will give 2.5°.
If I'm adjusting toe, I'll do the rear block first, then the front. Thats mainly because the rear block is easier to change!
HiH
Ed
#1742
Tech Master
iTrader: (26)
The thing to remember is that if you adjust the width with shims and so on, you also change the offset of the wheels to the hub.. so it's not quite as simple.
It does depend on how much toe you want to take out of the car... if it's a full degree, it's quite easy (go 1X/1D for 2°). If you only want to adjust the toe a little, then just try a 1D block on the rear, and leave everything else as is. That will give 2.5°.
If I'm adjusting toe, I'll do the rear block first, then the front. Thats mainly because the rear block is easier to change!
HiH
Ed
It does depend on how much toe you want to take out of the car... if it's a full degree, it's quite easy (go 1X/1D for 2°). If you only want to adjust the toe a little, then just try a 1D block on the rear, and leave everything else as is. That will give 2.5°.
If I'm adjusting toe, I'll do the rear block first, then the front. Thats mainly because the rear block is easier to change!
HiH
Ed
Also, what is the typical range for rear and front track widths? I'm using Jilles 2010 Snowbirds setup if that helps...
#1743
Tech Champion
iTrader: (4)
I'm so confused. 1X/1D has 2° of toe out according to the chart on your site. On the other side, 1XA/1D = 2.5° toe out? Why couldn't I just keep my 1XA front block and just change the rear accordingly?
Also, what is the typical range for rear and front track widths? I'm using Jilles 2010 Snowbirds setup if that helps...
Also, what is the typical range for rear and front track widths? I'm using Jilles 2010 Snowbirds setup if that helps...
If you go 1X/1D you keep the car the same width as the 1XA/1E combo, but with a degree less toe. Think of it of taking half a degree out of each end.
If you went to a 1XA/1C combo (again, 2° toe), the rear track would be about (I think!) 1mm or so narrower than the 1XA/1E, which can also affect how the car grips and rotates at the rear (I always found a narrower rear end to be more unstable on entry, quick rotation middle, but then push more on exit)
My personal preference would be to try and keep it the same as the kit settings, but if you have the time, could be worth testing which suits you better
HiH
Ed
#1744
Ran my 417 for the first time last night and was happy with its first outing.
A little loose mid or exit on slow corners but fast sweepers were great.
I did notice on full lock it was very chattery in the front shafts, has anybody else noticed this?
A little loose mid or exit on slow corners but fast sweepers were great.
I did notice on full lock it was very chattery in the front shafts, has anybody else noticed this?
#1746
Tech Addict
As mentioned, all cars with spool (unless they use something like the Xray ECS driveshafts) will have chatter. But I think the chatter is much less in the Tamiya, compared to Xray with standard driveshafts.
#1747
thanks for the feedback about the shafts, just didnt notice it on my 416, thats why i asked
but very happy with its first outing, just have to play with setup a little compared to my 416.
but very happy with its first outing, just have to play with setup a little compared to my 416.
#1750
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (34)
http://store.hkshobby.com/product_in...oducts_id=8992
I think the stock plastic blades are too brittle. They snapped when you hit something hard.
#1751
Tech Master
I have been getting mine to work as a foam car indoors, I wont lie its been a little bit of a struggle and I got close to thinking about either getting a 3.5mm chassis made from Fibrelyte or just selling it. I cant believe how soft the car is!
However I dont give up easily, and its really starting to get there now, this week the car was amazing and it was only my thumbs that were letting me down from winning every heat.
I have a few more tweaks, and then I should be able to post a foam indoor set-up.
However I dont give up easily, and its really starting to get there now, this week the car was amazing and it was only my thumbs that were letting me down from winning every heat.
I have a few more tweaks, and then I should be able to post a foam indoor set-up.
#1752
Tech Addict
Hi guys,
Quick question. I know on the 416 that it was necessary to use shims in between the upper and lower bulkheads. Is it still necessary in the 417? I have done it so far, but they are a pain in the butt
Quick question. I know on the 416 that it was necessary to use shims in between the upper and lower bulkheads. Is it still necessary in the 417? I have done it so far, but they are a pain in the butt
#1754
Anyone know where the gear diff version of the kit can be bought from at the moment? They appear out of stock almost everywhere.