Haven't seen the 417V5 manual yet.

Regards Roy

Thats because the official date for release is later this month. HK / Europe has got their stock early.

Only as a special order partnumber still. Tamiya will probably release it as a normal spare part later which means supply will be better. For now though the car is so new you might struggle to find them yet.

#9224034 RC Swing Shaft Cap: 42240 - White

Here you can see all new special order parts listed:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/search.php?q=42240

http://kentech.blogs.se/2012/12/11/t...uild-15309270/

Will add some more pictures of the finished car later and edit what needs editing but most of it there now. Hope some of you find it somewhat useful.

Great pics and write up!

x2. I'm sure, being new to Tamiya, I'll have more questios as I go, but to start with - I'll also be putting a Gear Diff in the front. Is the existing Diff (42197) http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info....ducts_id=11366 a direct drop in?

Yup its the same diff.

For the front diff I suggest picking up a set of the steel outdrives (#54425). This will let you run the diff without blades which get destroyed quickly up front.

Thanks Craig. Had just typed and posted a reply the same minute you did. I think that answered my next question.

Are you running on the carpet track at all? The putty diff up front was much better when I ran there last year. Just smoother and better rotation

I race on carpet during the winter, I find spool have det best forward bit and the lap times back it up.

However its something i going to test again.

That's where I primarily run. Haven't run Kambah yet. My current brand car, I run 200,000 in the front diff and quite like that. Haven't used putty before, but might give it a test.

Erm, when you say putty, what sort of putty do you use? And how do you do it? Also what is the advantage over say a thick oil?

I race on carpet and use gear diffs front and rear, I only have 10k in the front and I beat cars with spools etc. I can understand that a spool is more direct than a ball diff, but a gear diff doenst really slip.

Hi all,

I'm about to build one of the v5's and am confusing myself regarding outdrives/blades!?

I have ordered the new steel outdrives (and will be running gear diffs front and rear) and am wondering do you run blades with these? If so, will the kit blades fit or will I need the older style blades!?

Finally, if I go with kit outdrives instead, what aftermarket blades would be able to replace the new V5 ones as I believe spares are currently hard to come by of the kit ones?

I assume the difference between Ali and steel gears in the diff by the way is weight/durability?

New steel outdrives only have slots for the driveshaft pins without blades.
I would run the stock new outdrives with the new 3.5mm blades. I believe by the time you have used up the 2 pairs included in the kit spare ones will be available.

There are no oftermarket 3.5mm blades available yet. But other manufacturers have 3.5mm blades on their cars and some of these might fit.

Steel gears are just for durability.

I understand the issue is that we can't use the stock outdrives and 3.5mm blades because we can't buy them. Only the one available in the kit. The only Gear Diff kit available to buy seperately is the one one with the older outdrives, hence the reason to buy the steel outdrives and use no blades. Is that correct?

OK there's a bit of confusion:

I'm told the yokomo blades fit straight on, so you can use them until the tamiya 3.5mm are available

The tamiya steel outdrives take no blade, I would only use them up front where you have DCJs. They will cause some binding if used in the rear.

The old outdrives take the 3mm blade, you can get aftermarket steel versions from roche and arena that will accept the 3mm blade too

I use the ride 70 hardness diff putty. You pack the diff completely with it, which makes a very heavy action, much heavier than even 1 million oil. It makes the car smoother turning in, but a bit less steering coming out.

10k sounds very light, but hey, if it works it works.

Hello guys.
Do you know that the sakura zero diferential fits perfect on 417x and it's outdrives are 3,5mm width?
I'd running it last year without any issue and in Andalusian Regionals (The biggest region in south of Spain), I'd win the championship with two victorys and two seconds with this configuration.

Cheers.

http://www.touringelectricoandalucia.es/
http://www.agaerc.com

spec r already do a 3.5mm blade that fits the tamiya driveshafts. my brother uses them on his 417 after we filed his worn diff outdrives out

yes.. i also use the XRay NT1 metal gears inside my Sakura Gear Diff...

Associated TC6 3.5mm blades fit right on and will last forever.

Steel out drives for front diff are preferred to the standard alloy with a blade as in a crash the alloy will spread open.

Cheers

Fix your sig ;)

Apologies :)

When does the 417v5 come out on the U.S.?

Manual now online http://www.tamiya.com/japan/download.../42240-144.pdf

if i use orca motor 11,5T, how the FDR for my tamiya v5? (asphalt track, medium lenght)

sorry if my english is bad :D

Anyone who's been wanting a second pair of the aeration shocks, i sent a message to Rc market and apparently they are getting the shock kits in sometime this week and other parts (new blades, diff outdrives) later in december. Thought id pass this info onto everyone :)

Hi Guys,

I just got a used 417 and was wondering if you have any tips on how to set up the car correctly or a list of hop-ups needed.

I currently use a ta05 v2 and purchased the 417 in order to compete in the faster classes.

Currently, the 417 I have has a front spool and rear gear diff. The rest of the configuration is purely stock.

I usually run on an indoor asphalt track (med-large length) here in the philippines.

Appreciate your help!

Pick up some DCJs and steel spool cups, some HPI springs, and an assortment of suspension blocks if you don't already have those. The car doesn't really need any hop ups, it's good to go!

Hi Craig, thanks. I'm sorry, what are DCJ's (forgive my ignorance)

Also, is there a huge difference between the 417 and 417x?

You switched to tamiya?

Double jointed universals

The main changes are top and bottom deck and motor mount. The new 417v5 is very different, again with new top and bottom decks, all new bulkheads, shocks and more

Anyone raced the V5 on Carpet yet?

Our lokal fast guy has run it on rug.
He said he find it better than the X.
Hope it helps

Mine's sitting there built, looking pretty, doing nothing. No racing here till mid January :(. It'll give me time to work on the new body and the F1, I suppose.

please share base setup for V5 in medium asphalt track

thanks

oh got it thanks!

I'll be testing it this thursday.

Kit setup is an excellent starting point :nod:

Tamiya Tools
 

Not really a 417 question, but a Tamiya question. You know what I hate?! Building turnbuckles! No one told me about these Tamiya turnbuckle adjuster thingos. However, does anyone know the difference between the two? They both say 5mm. One says Tamiya, one say TRF. Tamiya is cheaper. TRF says suitable for reinfornced adjusters.

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53858

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=42186

I have them both, the "tamiya" one fits the kit turnbuckles and the shock ball cups perfectly. The TRF one has a slightly larger hole that can fit a heavier duty/larger ball cup. Maybe the TRF one is aimed at off road (i have no clue if the off road kits have larger ball cups though).
Anyway, both should work fine however, the TRF one is the same colour as the rest of the TRF tools ;) the tamiya one is a slightly different blue.