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I recently watched Jilles Groskamp's build tips on YouTube. If you guys get a chance, watch the part on building shocks. I have been bundling them that way and have had great consistent results. On a car such as M06 with limited tuning, it helps a lot.
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Originally Posted by HugoW
(Post 13973321)
Huh? Can anyone explain to me what this does, and whether it makes sense (on an M-06)?
http://www.musicamoviles.com/EtRqhiRHpPs/m-05-ff/ Thanks! Hugo |
The race body for the long chassis is done:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...502_125349.jpg https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...502_125406.jpg Hugo |
Nice job Hugo.
2 questions for the bunch. 1. On the M06 pro it comes with e clip hinge pins (steel I assume) and the long screw type hinge pins...if you use the hinge pins do you just not use the same me that the shock mounts on? The hinge pin with ball on end? 2. Does everyone's rear camber length deeply angle backwards (as seen from above)? Seems you could space out the ball studs and make it more straight. Thanks |
Originally Posted by Herc Driver
(Post 13998638)
Nice job Hugo.
2 questions for the bunch. 1. On the M06 pro it comes with e clip hinge pins (steel I assume) and the long screw type hinge pins...if you use the hinge pins do you just not use the same me that the shock mounts on? The hinge pin with ball on end? 2. Does everyone's rear camber length deeply angle backwards (as seen from above)? Seems you could space out the ball studs and make it more straight. Thanks The camber links are angled. I have often pondered using spacers to straighten them out.. However since the car is so planted, I've never bothered to mess with it |
Ok thanks...building the trf shocks and painting up my herbie body next.
Still looking to get aluminum motor mount and 1 degree hubs next I have kit clear shocks (nip) that I won't be using pm me if you are interested. |
Hi guys,
Today while testing my car I think I messed up my M-05 ball dif. If I drive slowly its works, but when I push the throttle It starts slipping. I will take it apart tonight, but I need a back-up plan. I have the original gear dif still, should I keep it light with regular grease, heavy with AW grease or semi locked with 500k Tamiya silicone dif oil? I will race an outdoor tarmac track this weekend. Conditions unknown, a new top surface was put down last Tuesday. Thanks, Hugo |
Hugo- That body you did looks awesome! :D I use thread lock on the ball diff screw when I assemble it.
As for bevel diff solution, I hear people use 2 washers per side instead of one (or more) to shim it up to tighten the diff + the AW grease you mentioned. My question.. I have a M04L for the longest time. It's "ok". I'm sure you get asked a lot, but how much better is the M06? :confused: |
Thanks for the compiment, and for the dif info. I meanwhile found I forgot the outer bearing in the middle gear of the gearbox, so the pinion was slipping on the worn gear. How stupid is that? Anyway, the dif is in good shape and the issue is fixed. Saturday my first real training session with the car, Sunday the first race.
Sorry I cannot comment on the M-04. This is my first M after the M-01 (which I still have, but only my son occasionally drives). Hugo |
Originally Posted by sakadachi
(Post 14008474)
Hugo- That body you did looks awesome! :D I use thread lock on the ball diff screw when I assemble it.
As for bevel diff solution, I hear people use 2 washers per side instead of one (or more) to shim it up to tighten the diff + the AW grease you mentioned. My question.. I have a M04L for the longest time. It's "ok". I'm sure you get asked a lot, but how much better is the M06? :confused: |
Another question. I hear the rear upright weights of the R version really are a great help, but they are not available anymore. Are they really such a big help?
Now I am allowed one or two non-standard parts in our Cup. If I read this: http://www.tamiya.com/english/produc...m06r/index.htm I see the weights are 10 grams each. Would adding 10 grams of lead strip with a ty wrap have similar benefits as the original clamp on ones? It would be easily made... Cheers, Hugo |
There was a guy in Australia who made a batch of the wheel weights last year, made 20 sets or so, don't know if they are still available though.
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Originally Posted by HugoW
(Post 14009622)
Would adding 10 grams of lead strip with a ty wrap have similar benefits as the original clamp on ones? It would be easily made...
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OK, thanks, then I spent my lunch break effectively:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...515_142130.jpg https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...515_141952.jpg https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...515_142002.jpg It's 4mm stainless steel, they are 12 grams each. I didn't bother with a clamp screw, I just undersized the main hole, opened up the slot with a screwdriver, slid the weights on and removed the screwdriver again. They seem to be stuck on there pretty well. I did have to cut back the reinforcement ribs on the hubs about 3mm. I just cannot lose coming weekend ;) At least the car is pretty decent. Hugo |
Originally Posted by HugoW
(Post 14009864)
OK, thanks, then I spent my lunch break effectively:
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