bakoo

According to http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/14.../#entry1424142 these fit the M06 MWB:

Ride Subaru WRX
TBG Audi TT
HPI Miata
Tamiya Mazda Eunos
Tamiya ALFA Romeo Giulia Sprint GTA
Tamiya Renault Alpine A110
HPI BMW 2002
HPI Datsun 510
HPI Datsun 240Z

Raman

iTrader: (94)

Alpine is 210

MD

iTrader: (136)

Checkout TBG(Team Blue Groove) on Ebay.

HugoW

Ok, so today on my French holiday address I screwed togeter the M-06 chassis for the first time. I will race this car next year in the Dutch Tamiya Cup. Uneventful build as usual with Tamiya kits, but some things made me frown / wonder...

What's with parts A6 and A8 on the front uprights? For use with swaybar, probably? I think I'll take them off.

Why not cast D11 and D1 as one part, and D12 and D2, too?

Why are all suspension arms two pieces and two screws, not just one casted piece? What would be against glueing them together and removing the screws after the glue sets?

Could / should we do the same glue and remove screws trick on the front chassis, parts B4, B1, E10 and the 'tub' itself?

Is there some glue that welds (melts and fuses) Tamiya plastic?

I'm not quite sure what the four parts D10 are for, I will leave them off I guess.

I can see a turnbuckle set for the upper suspension arms would come in handy. Found the pt.no. Is there a turnbuckle set for the steering arms a s well, or are they just too short?

I have the Alpine body (I don't like Renault. This is an Alpine car, Renault just used it to get publicity for their brand after they bought Alpine. They had nothing to do with the design or development!) and I will later make it look half decent when I return home. Some time later I will disassemble the car, and rebuild with various hopups.

Cheers,

Hugo

Core Creations

iTrader: (108)

Any insight as to a new version of the 06 with hop ups...something unlike the awful looking red R version?

Raman

iTrader: (94)

We should be seeing a Ver II of the M06 Pro with the new arms that came in the M05 Pro Ver II. Maybe announced on Sept 26 at the Japan Model Hobby Show.

Markus

iTrader: (93)

I'm expecting similar running change to the m05v2.
Most likely new chassis trees, arms trees, and longer rear hinge pins.

Markus

iTrader: (93)

what diffs settings are you guys using for high traction carpet and outdoor asphalt? ball, gear, putty, light grease?

Raman

iTrader: (94)

I run on asphalt and have been running the M05 ball diff. Have not had any issues with it. Infact since the day I installed it, I have never serviced it. Dropped it in and forgot about it. Works like a charm.

The asphalt surface I run on used to be treated.. But of late they have been slacking on treating it. During last race I switched from the sweep slicks to m chassis threaded tyres which helped increase grip a lot.

MD

iTrader: (136)

I've been running Shimizu slicks on two parking lot tracks. One is treated and one is not. These tires a very good.

Raman

iTrader: (94)

Last race I tried Shimizu as well. The track was too dirty for slicks. The tyre was picking up a coat of dust. That's when I switched to m chassis threaded.

I think Shimizu are probably the best tyres for m chassis. They're very close to Sorex for TC in compound.

policeman0077

my 06r works very well overall. But my car seems have to much initial side bite when you turn in and if you push it too the limit it suddenly lose the side bite and starts drifting. though it's still controlable and very fast. I would like to know what's the problem of it and if I can make turn more smooth, lap time would improve a lot.

Markus

iTrader: (93)

0077,

Sounds like you are transferring too much weight to the front tires.

since you mentioned 'initial' i'm assuming you are speaking of an off power situation.
Sounds like your set up is close and you are asking for a tick less initial steering off power.

try one level softer front spring
or
a single small line of CA only on the front outside corner of the tire

policeman0077

oh sorry I forgot to mention it's the rear end side bite. it's a little bit over steer when coasting but when I lift front ride height a bit. The problem seems solved.
Right now I feel the rear end has too much traction(side) when you initiate a turn(you feel the tail is not willing to pull out at beginning of the turning), and when you reach the limit of traction. It suddenly begins sliding rear end(thought controlable and looks cool but evidently not fast).

Or my wheelbase is not long enough? I use short now.

Markus

iTrader: (93)

in that case move the top of rear shocks inward (laid down) and/or move the front shock tops outward.
lastly you can spring down one rate on the rear.