BOBBY, Partyman- I am cobidering this car as an extra, can you answer a few questions??

-Is the gear mesh adjustable or are you stuck with the factory set?

-How durable is the car?

-How doew it handle?

-Does it have any major shortcomings???

Thanks, I have found alot of regurgitated information from people who have never even seen one up close, and alot of speculations too.... I just don't believe anything until I hear it from actual owners..........

yep its true trinity buys these cars from a toy company.... they import them and sell em to you... can get them rtr on ebay for under 100 bucks...

but the purpose of the cars is spec class competition.. so no hopups can be used, as well as all rules must be followed.. so it is great for that

These are very interesting to me, maybe I'll look into buying one?

did the posts above pretty much calling it junk convince you to waste your money? If I owned a track, i'd have a spec class but would only allow one chassis like the xxx-s or tc3 with no hopups, etc. Spec just means everything is equal and why use a POS to further the class when you can use quality kits?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WD1V

Says it's made by Sanwa... I'd still rather get it from Trinity and not pay $60 shipping!!

AWOLsoldier: I agree with those last words. Have YOU seen one or driven one? I would expect someone like you to bash it, because damn, a Pro4 would make the T spec look like a ghetto POS car, but some people can't afford a nice Pro4 like you can. I'm 15, I have no job, and no place to race touring, so why do I need to have a high end Pro4 in the first place? I will admit, the Pro4 is a NICE car. If I had a touring track nearby, sure, I'd save for the next year or so to buy one. But I have no place to race, and no major income, so a T- spec would do just fine for me.:p

I agrre with you. I don't have track arround my neibourhood, i can only drive my cars in parking lot. just for practice, why need a high end car and risk yourself of grab and run. T-spec is just enough for practice and drift.
for poor people like us, 300 for a chassis is not the way when you can get a car that almost ready to run. save the money for eletronic is better
:nod:

I'm poor too but in this hobby, you wont be happy unless you have a quality kit and that's where it pays to pay a little more up front. I tend to buy used gear and save a lot of money that way as well. That's true though, it's pointless to bash around with an expensive kit so if a cheaper one will get your rocks off then it's a good deal. I like the idea of the spec class but I think Trinity is just trying to milk more money out of unsuspecting noobs that would have better success running a stock class and learning the ropes.

LosiFromHell986


sanwa is who makes the radio.. sanwa is airtronics.....

I am the owner of T-spec
 

I have one, but my eletronic is not arrive yet, can not run:cry:
I have a close look of the car b4 I decide to buy one as my LHS owner allow me to broke the factory seal:D
the drive train is smooth. but the factory build............I will took it all apart and rebuild it again.
:flaming:
unfortunately the one i look at, the shock was damage in factory assamble.:flaming: but anyway, i will change in to HPI one
believe is or not, you can put the Kyosho lola conversion on to the front of the car , the lower bumper plate is perfact fit:nod: I am not sure if i can fit a rear floating body mount and end up have an eletric that run lola:lol: that will be hell cool, a lola drifter:lol:

:nod: Uh-Huh, I know... :nod: :) :smile:

Sure stock class is where Noobies should start:rolleyes: :weird: :weird:

Let's not fool ourselves we all know that at a majority of the tracks around the nation the stock class is flooded by guys that should either be in 19T or Mod, but due to whatever limitations the track doesn't run either. And if they do there are guys that just stay back because they either wanna milk it or they really can't afford to keep up... either way Stock class is expensive it's self.... I personally have seen alot of noobies careers work out one of 2 ways...

----Start with a RTR--------avg. $260 for RTR, usually start with 1500mah battes for around $25 and cheapy timed charger or peak charger or around $60

Take the car out for the first race, it's slowand handles crappy- to keep up you gotta get a stock motor, corresponding pinion and racing tires---$40 +$5+$45-60 OK if I gotta have 'em......

second race--- Now my car won't make runtime---- better batts $65-100 WHAT???? #@%& well OK, hope the wife/Mom don't kill me.....

Third race--- it still doesn't have enough power and guys are getting PO'ed for me backing up in front of them, and I'm breaking parts left and right...... $20-30 parts well OK cause I have to have them, but to go faster I ned an esc that costs how much???????

Usually they either figure they will have to suffer and /or end up giving up......

------ second scenerio----- gotta have the best.... Car$250-350, batts $85-120 x3, radio $270, speedo $140, charger $150-500, motor $40, Body (c-mon no high end cars come with one)$30(gotta have paint too), servo(gotta have a good one) $50-150, racing tires $45-60----- $720-$1900!!!

--first race---- WOW this things fast!! buy it doesn't handle well and I don't know how to drive, a broken a-arm each race...(he got off lucky!! $20, I gotta have 'em to race

---Second race--- I finally made it through a full race without braking, but I still broke in 2 heats.... $15 inparts.... maybe I should replace those a-arms with aluminum...hmmmm $30, but no more broken arms?.?.?


Agian this still ends up with a very small success rate most end up dropping out within a year



New drivers can learn the ropes in a spec class, and have alot of fun while learning to drive at the same time.... and for alot less money......

You have put in your two cents and I have put mine in, now let's get back to the questions at hand... if you don't like the T-spec then don't post anymore on this thread and let people interested in the car discuss it. I am sure you wouldn't want me to come on the Pro4 thread and give my real opinion of it would you???

NOW----------

Back to my questions on the T-Spec:

Gear ratios- is the motor mount adjustable or are you stuck with 1 pinion?

Tires- how well do they work?

Handling- how does it handle out of the box? (I am not interested in drifting at all, so I don't really care about that)

Durability- How durable is it??

howdy

I've always liked spec classes... we tried to stat a spec class at our track (when I was living in the US) with tspec pan cars. Three of us at the club decided to buy one, and we showed the other guys what t hey were capable of (faster than most stock sedans even on unprepped parking lots)... to no avail. nobody else bought one.

I guess my conclusion is: buy a Tspec sedan if you like, but make sure that either

1- there WILL be a full-blown spec class if you want to race within a club

- OR -

2- you'll always run by yourself at the walmart parking lot on sundays.

If it's not for one of these purposes, I really recommend you save some cash for a few more months and buy a middle-to-high-range chassis, new or used, because it's probably what you'll end up doing anyway.

Spec classes are cool. the only trick is convincing your club to run them.

Sorry I can't answer your questions... I don't know the product.

Good luck!
Paul

I own Trinity T-Spec
 

Well.....
1. The car arrives assembled.
2. The car comes with Kimbrough spur gear in a plastic bag, and Trinity spur gear mount. You have to dissasemble most of the car to put the Kimbrough gear in. I'm using the original gear with the original pinion to start with.
3. The car looks really strong, it has big bumper at front and the plastic is pretty soft, so it should not break, the chassis itself and the topdeck are made from stiffer plastic than the rest of the car.
4. Anyone who thinks that Trinity is ripping them off with the cheapest touring car on the market (109 at towers) should have their head examined. IMHO of course. :D
5. The car was slightly tweaked, but I can't feel that it affects handling.
6. The car is heavy, it's nearly 800 grams without electronics, body and tires. It's almost 1700 grams ready for track, with my old electronic gear, Cyclone TC.
7. The screws easily strip the soft plastic.
8. The tires are pretty good for RTR car.
9. The car is quiet for shaftdrive car.
10. The diffs were pretty loose and the assembly was not 100%, you have to check everything on the car before using.
11. I put 12 turn motor in it and it rips with the standard gearing.
12. The car is really adjustable but the plastic is soft and the nubs for the dropdown screws bend downs so I'll not be using that adjustment, don't wanna tweak the chassis.
13. There is not much room for electronic gear, I had to put the receiver on top of the servo, (My electronic gear is old and pretty big)
14. The gear mesh is adjustable.
15. This car is not the best beginners car. It's not the best car available. It's not marketed as such. This car is marketed as COST CONTROLLED RACING CAR, and as such is very good.
16. Comparing it with other cars I'd say TC3 racer is better, HPI Sport 2 is better, Traxxas 4-Tec is worse, Kyosho Readyset Alpha 2 is worse.