T-spec?
 

Does anyone has it yet? if so please tell us about it, I want to know if the t-spec from team trinity will turn fast laps running low turn motors like 8T to 12T or it's only design for 19T spec motors. thanks.

Honestly...I'd like to know as well....The T-Spec car looks like the foundation to a really nice TC. Just swap the plastic tub for carbon and lose the phillips-head hardware for hex and it would be sweet! :D

I think the idea for the car was to run a spec class. I'm sure you could get it fast but you would probably have to make your own chassis as since this is a spec car there won't be alot of hop ups for it!

And from what I've heard about it the chassis is quite flexible.

Actually...I think Trinity "may" come out with a full option version for top class TC competition. I mean look at the design:

Dual deck
Shaft drive
Serpent-like shock angles
Pillow ball suspension
Ability to use side by side packs
etc.

Plus it has a really sweet forward raked suspension geometry.

I think the T-spec car would be a killer design in pro trim.

I am getting one soon, make it a drift car maybe:p

I really like what I've seen so far on the web and on the back of a magazine but I still don't know the internal ratio of it and don't see very many options on the front shock tower either, so I guess I need a little bit more info before I get one.

the prupose of the car is for spec racing, there will probably not be a pro version, so it keeps everything the same, the same thing applies for option parts

I'm aware of it's intention...I'm just saying it would be a shame to not develop such a nice looking car into a Pro-level machine... ;)

actually, u can get the car now from ebay if u search for "acme r/c 1/10" or sth like that from hk, im pretty sure its the same car.

trinity has said somwhere in a bbs board that the car was imported from some company and i would guess its ACME in china and the cars sus. parts, front bumper holder are identical to the v-one gas cars if u have a look at the pics.

i tihnk the hp is www.acme-rc.com

The hobbyshop here got some. There was one at the track today. We have a spec class here. Any TC that can run the Trinity Spec Batteries and Motors. But now the track owner wants to turn it into "more" of a spec class. The car looked pretty beefy. Had some flex to it. But beefy. In order to take the motor out (ala TC3 style) you have to take off the top plate to access one of the screws that hold down the cam. Kinda sucks. But the angle is too ackward if you were to try and access the screw without the top deck removed. Also the gears are not USA spec... but metric. So you'd have to find some pinions or whatever from someplace else. Also it was slow in stock trim (real slow with spec motor and batteries.. much slower than tc3 with same setup). I'll have to see more of it later I guess. I think the guy ended up using his TC3 instead until the class becomes full Spec.. T-Spec. Basically, you get what you pay for. But the car should hold up to abuse... I think.....

are the gears like tamiya coarse ones?

I really didn't get a look at the spur or pinion. One of the other guys were trying to change pinions and noticed the gear mesh wouldn't work with 48pitch or whatever it was they were trying to fit. To me the car is just a huge hunk of plastic. But for spec racing, this car should do just fine for what it was intended to do here stateside. $120 for a car, motor, battery, and body is not a bad deal for someone looking to start out or looking for affordable racing "if" your track supports it. If they don't, the TC3 Racer kit is your best bet for an excellent affordable racing car.

Bummer to hear that bro...I was hoping for better... :(

I purchased a real Trinity Spec Car and it came with a Kimbrough 48 pitch spur and adapter. The car is good, no issues. the cheap version thats on e-bay runs backwards because the transmissions are in the other way. They also have all bushings and plastic drive cups....lmao the driveshaft vibrates like mad. I paid a little more but my car goes foward....My friend who got the cheep ebay car put it back up for sale and bought the Trinity Version.

BTW: The adapter bolts on like a tc3 and the kimbrough gear was a 69 48 pitch. The gears that are on the car, metric 48.

Width: 189mm - Height: 91.55mm - Length: 380mm - Wheel Base: 259mm - Gear Ratio: 7.42:1 - Weight Approx.: 3.45 lbs.
I guess the gear ratio is calculated with the spur and pinion that come on the car!

Trinity has done a good job with this class in the past so Im in!

T-Spec
 

I got the Trinity T-Spec week before last and I've got it running more than the Spec stuff in it. I've got my V8 ESC and Fantom Stock motor, also running my 3300's in it. It seems to keep right up with the Losi's and the TC3's, and has alot better handling than the losi's and TC3's. One thing i want to try and change on the car is the dogbones to CVD's if i can find ones that might work. I haven't checked the size match of the TC3 CVD's or maybe the losi's yet but i'm looking into it. I Still mainly use my Schumacher Mission, but for the few races that i've put the T-Spec out there it's held it's own. The best thing in my view, and i've had a few TC3's, is the steering system. The T-Spec's bell crank is not near as tight as the TC3's and with this it can cut out of the corners pretty quick and tight with the aid of the suspension system that is pretty good for this cheap chassis. I to would like to see Trinity come out with some upgrades for a higher level competion car without a 3rd party involved, but from what i get from Trinity that's not going to happen. This is a whole marketing stratagy of theres and thats's the bottom line cause they said so lol :ha:

BOBBY, Partyman- I am cobidering this car as an extra, can you answer a few questions??

-Is the gear mesh adjustable or are you stuck with the factory set?

-How durable is the car?

-How doew it handle?

-Does it have any major shortcomings???

Thanks, I have found alot of regurgitated information from people who have never even seen one up close, and alot of speculations too.... I just don't believe anything until I hear it from actual owners..........

yep its true trinity buys these cars from a toy company.... they import them and sell em to you... can get them rtr on ebay for under 100 bucks...

but the purpose of the cars is spec class competition.. so no hopups can be used, as well as all rules must be followed.. so it is great for that

These are very interesting to me, maybe I'll look into buying one?

did the posts above pretty much calling it junk convince you to waste your money? If I owned a track, i'd have a spec class but would only allow one chassis like the xxx-s or tc3 with no hopups, etc. Spec just means everything is equal and why use a POS to further the class when you can use quality kits?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WD1V

Says it's made by Sanwa... I'd still rather get it from Trinity and not pay $60 shipping!!

AWOLsoldier: I agree with those last words. Have YOU seen one or driven one? I would expect someone like you to bash it, because damn, a Pro4 would make the T spec look like a ghetto POS car, but some people can't afford a nice Pro4 like you can. I'm 15, I have no job, and no place to race touring, so why do I need to have a high end Pro4 in the first place? I will admit, the Pro4 is a NICE car. If I had a touring track nearby, sure, I'd save for the next year or so to buy one. But I have no place to race, and no major income, so a T- spec would do just fine for me.:p

I agrre with you. I don't have track arround my neibourhood, i can only drive my cars in parking lot. just for practice, why need a high end car and risk yourself of grab and run. T-spec is just enough for practice and drift.
for poor people like us, 300 for a chassis is not the way when you can get a car that almost ready to run. save the money for eletronic is better
:nod:

I'm poor too but in this hobby, you wont be happy unless you have a quality kit and that's where it pays to pay a little more up front. I tend to buy used gear and save a lot of money that way as well. That's true though, it's pointless to bash around with an expensive kit so if a cheaper one will get your rocks off then it's a good deal. I like the idea of the spec class but I think Trinity is just trying to milk more money out of unsuspecting noobs that would have better success running a stock class and learning the ropes.

LosiFromHell986


sanwa is who makes the radio.. sanwa is airtronics.....

I am the owner of T-spec
 

I have one, but my eletronic is not arrive yet, can not run:cry:
I have a close look of the car b4 I decide to buy one as my LHS owner allow me to broke the factory seal:D
the drive train is smooth. but the factory build............I will took it all apart and rebuild it again.
:flaming:
unfortunately the one i look at, the shock was damage in factory assamble.:flaming: but anyway, i will change in to HPI one
believe is or not, you can put the Kyosho lola conversion on to the front of the car , the lower bumper plate is perfact fit:nod: I am not sure if i can fit a rear floating body mount and end up have an eletric that run lola:lol: that will be hell cool, a lola drifter:lol:

:nod: Uh-Huh, I know... :nod: :) :smile:

Sure stock class is where Noobies should start:rolleyes: :weird: :weird:

Let's not fool ourselves we all know that at a majority of the tracks around the nation the stock class is flooded by guys that should either be in 19T or Mod, but due to whatever limitations the track doesn't run either. And if they do there are guys that just stay back because they either wanna milk it or they really can't afford to keep up... either way Stock class is expensive it's self.... I personally have seen alot of noobies careers work out one of 2 ways...

----Start with a RTR--------avg. $260 for RTR, usually start with 1500mah battes for around $25 and cheapy timed charger or peak charger or around $60

Take the car out for the first race, it's slowand handles crappy- to keep up you gotta get a stock motor, corresponding pinion and racing tires---$40 +$5+$45-60 OK if I gotta have 'em......

second race--- Now my car won't make runtime---- better batts $65-100 WHAT???? #@%& well OK, hope the wife/Mom don't kill me.....

Third race--- it still doesn't have enough power and guys are getting PO'ed for me backing up in front of them, and I'm breaking parts left and right...... $20-30 parts well OK cause I have to have them, but to go faster I ned an esc that costs how much???????

Usually they either figure they will have to suffer and /or end up giving up......

------ second scenerio----- gotta have the best.... Car$250-350, batts $85-120 x3, radio $270, speedo $140, charger $150-500, motor $40, Body (c-mon no high end cars come with one)$30(gotta have paint too), servo(gotta have a good one) $50-150, racing tires $45-60----- $720-$1900!!!

--first race---- WOW this things fast!! buy it doesn't handle well and I don't know how to drive, a broken a-arm each race...(he got off lucky!! $20, I gotta have 'em to race

---Second race--- I finally made it through a full race without braking, but I still broke in 2 heats.... $15 inparts.... maybe I should replace those a-arms with aluminum...hmmmm $30, but no more broken arms?.?.?


Agian this still ends up with a very small success rate most end up dropping out within a year



New drivers can learn the ropes in a spec class, and have alot of fun while learning to drive at the same time.... and for alot less money......

You have put in your two cents and I have put mine in, now let's get back to the questions at hand... if you don't like the T-spec then don't post anymore on this thread and let people interested in the car discuss it. I am sure you wouldn't want me to come on the Pro4 thread and give my real opinion of it would you???

NOW----------

Back to my questions on the T-Spec:

Gear ratios- is the motor mount adjustable or are you stuck with 1 pinion?

Tires- how well do they work?

Handling- how does it handle out of the box? (I am not interested in drifting at all, so I don't really care about that)

Durability- How durable is it??

howdy

I've always liked spec classes... we tried to stat a spec class at our track (when I was living in the US) with tspec pan cars. Three of us at the club decided to buy one, and we showed the other guys what t hey were capable of (faster than most stock sedans even on unprepped parking lots)... to no avail. nobody else bought one.

I guess my conclusion is: buy a Tspec sedan if you like, but make sure that either

1- there WILL be a full-blown spec class if you want to race within a club

- OR -

2- you'll always run by yourself at the walmart parking lot on sundays.

If it's not for one of these purposes, I really recommend you save some cash for a few more months and buy a middle-to-high-range chassis, new or used, because it's probably what you'll end up doing anyway.

Spec classes are cool. the only trick is convincing your club to run them.

Sorry I can't answer your questions... I don't know the product.

Good luck!
Paul

I own Trinity T-Spec
 

Well.....
1. The car arrives assembled.
2. The car comes with Kimbrough spur gear in a plastic bag, and Trinity spur gear mount. You have to dissasemble most of the car to put the Kimbrough gear in. I'm using the original gear with the original pinion to start with.
3. The car looks really strong, it has big bumper at front and the plastic is pretty soft, so it should not break, the chassis itself and the topdeck are made from stiffer plastic than the rest of the car.
4. Anyone who thinks that Trinity is ripping them off with the cheapest touring car on the market (109 at towers) should have their head examined. IMHO of course. :D
5. The car was slightly tweaked, but I can't feel that it affects handling.
6. The car is heavy, it's nearly 800 grams without electronics, body and tires. It's almost 1700 grams ready for track, with my old electronic gear, Cyclone TC.
7. The screws easily strip the soft plastic.
8. The tires are pretty good for RTR car.
9. The car is quiet for shaftdrive car.
10. The diffs were pretty loose and the assembly was not 100%, you have to check everything on the car before using.
11. I put 12 turn motor in it and it rips with the standard gearing.
12. The car is really adjustable but the plastic is soft and the nubs for the dropdown screws bend downs so I'll not be using that adjustment, don't wanna tweak the chassis.
13. There is not much room for electronic gear, I had to put the receiver on top of the servo, (My electronic gear is old and pretty big)
14. The gear mesh is adjustable.
15. This car is not the best beginners car. It's not the best car available. It's not marketed as such. This car is marketed as COST CONTROLLED RACING CAR, and as such is very good.
16. Comparing it with other cars I'd say TC3 racer is better, HPI Sport 2 is better, Traxxas 4-Tec is worse, Kyosho Readyset Alpha 2 is worse.

Thanks andsetinn!

just a few more questions...

How does it handle out of the box? does it still want to get up and go even though it weighs in atclose to 60oz.??? Is the car receptive to suspension changes??

Thanks, the car sound just right for what I plan on doing with it!!

anybody found on-line parts support for the t-spec? How about a method for decifering the parts list?

Thanks Larry

Can anyone put some pics of their own T-Spec???:sweat:

Sorry needed to revitalize some interest in this car! I have been running it whenever there are enough of us to have a class and although it handles well mine is just so much more slower than a few of the others. It is not the gearing or the batteries but just finding a good spec motor. I have trued the comm, shimmed the arm, polished the bushings, and tried a few different spring combos but nothing seems to work! A friend of mine at the track tuned one of mine and did a before and after dyno and got approx 1200 more RPMs out of it, while it is faster than it was out the box it is still slower than a few other cars on the long back straight approx 175' Any ideas, currently have the car geared at 64/28. I have been charging the spec batteries at 6 amps right before the heat/Main and that has given it a bit more punch. Any other ideas? I have been running CS-27s as we are allowed to use any tires with it. Foams seem to slow the car down as it is an asphalt track and the foams really grip it well! Any other ideas? Or am I reduced to getting a few more of these motors until I finally get a better one?

The Spec motors are hit or miss, I have 4, one of them is clearly better then the other 3 and no amount of tinkering has changed that....it is just that way....

As for the car handling....Out of the box mine was good...I moved all the caster clips to the back and that helped it even more. I have also lowered the car some and that helped, I will probably rebuild the shocks and add internal limited to lower it even more (want it around 5mm)...

Also, I will be running a 60/30 for gearing, that seems to be the sweet spot....

One other thing, if you have the time take all your bearings out and clean them, they are lubed with a THICK oil from the factory, get them cleaned out and spinning free, that will help some....

I think if I have time I may take apart the diffs and do the same as above to free them up some, they seem a bit tight....

Otherwise it is a great class to have fun with....

As for part support...Trinity has all the spare parts, the hobby shops just need to order / stock them....

Thanks TigeRyan,
I figured that was the case with these motors. I did have to tear apart the diffs though as they had a very gritty feel to them. The rings are pretty cheap as well and I turned them around to get the better other side. I used the associated dif lube and it feels a bit smoother. I just hated to practically tear the whole car apart to get at them! LOL. I had to adjust mine out of the box as when I checked the settings they were a bit off all the way around. I am running AE green springs in back as the stock springs were a bit too stiff. I actually gave the car more negative castor by putting the clips up front it seemed to handle better for me that way. This car is a bit hard to lower as the droop stops are plastic and want to bend if you use too much. I will have to try the shock internal limiters as I want to get it down like my TC3 which is at 4.5 and 5. Overall very durable car the plastic has alot of give and only using a 21T it does not get the speed up to really tear something up if I tap the pipes or boards!

Picked up another one for my son to try. He wound up breaking both front knuckles one in each heat! Luckily one of the other T-spec guys had a pack of knuckles to sell me! LOL I have not broken anything on my car and I have been racing it for 6 months now. I also have the fastest car on the straights since the guy who had the quickest motor rebuilt it and now it runs slower! I have mine geared with a 64/29. I think I could probably gear up to the 60/30 but really no need right now. Besides with the spec pack if you do not have a fully charged battery you would be hosed. Our 5 min heats/races I have about 30 seconds left on my batts after a run. This class is a blast though and is always very close. Just about all the racers run 12 laps with maybe one TQ with 13. I would be happy to do that with my TC3 19T! LOL I always seem to break something on that car though!

what can i say, there trash. I have owned one, my friend owns one and two or three at my track own one. they are made from crap plastic and the diffs are total trash. they are heavy, the screws strip out easy the dogbones are cheap bendy sloppy crap. i only raced it in 540 and i still had trouble with it. i only had mine for around three months and i did ok with it but the comp was weak. they are pretty cheap and crappy. they look good in pictures but its all down hill from there. i would try and steer people away from them. to me spec racing should be down to set up and driving skill, but i think it will come down to who can keep their diffs together the longest. and the rear droop screws bend the chassis down rather than change the droop.

STAY AWAY :nod:

While I can say they are not the best cars out there, they are for the price pretty good cars. While I probably would not run this car in anything other than Spec class it has been a very fun class to race in. All the cars are even and there is a very friendly competition going on at our track with these cars. Most of the drivers are all veterans with only a couple of us that are new to touring thrown in. I have raced this car in spec for 6 months now and even though it is crappy plastic I have yet to break anything on the car. (helps if you stay off the walls and pipes!) The diff ring does require periodic maintence and I have not stripped a screw hole yet. (helps if you use a regular screwdriver instead of a electric one!) There is one new guy to R/C and he has a blast with his car he has put good electronics in it and when he tires of Spec class he will be ready to purchase something else to run in our touring class. This car is very good for beginners to learn on as it is simple to set-up and run! Everyone has their opinions and I for one would recommend the car to anyone starting out wanting to be fairly competitive. ;)

We are having fairly good success getting people to run these cars. We had a traveling series race yesterday and we had 10 of them running. I broke my car car for the first time yesterday, twice...a front steering knuckel and a rear steering knuckle, also lost the dogbone on the track :(

People have to understand that these are not XRay's...you are getting a car, body, motor and tires for $129, throw in basic radio gear and ESC and a newbie can get going for about $225.00, that dollar amount can barely get you a TC Kit these days. The hobby needs a class where a new driver can get going at a low cost of entry, learn how to drive and setup his/her car and advance to stock touring. T-Spec should be the first stop for most new drivers, just my opinion of course....

I'd love to see a ready-to-race version from Trinity, foam tires, ESC, radio everything in the box for say $250.00, much like the HPI Nitro RS4's...