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Originally Posted by wtcc
(Post 8341724)
No tap at home? Just get one in the next hardware store. It is not to late, yet.
But this hole is 3.0mm and I should made thread in air ;) ???? There is some space to made new thread M3 for longer screw ... |
Originally Posted by bshookup
(Post 8344126)
I apologize if this has already be addressed. What is the best way to get replacement parts for manufacturer defects? I usually get my kits from my LHS and they take care of these things, but I went online this time. I as others have a few things on my TC6 that need to be replaced. I loved my TC5 and am still excited to get the TC6 on the track.
I post pics to my USA dealer/friend ;) Whatever, it is still OK chassis for me. I learn how works tc5 and I will use it for tc6 :) |
Finished build
1 Attachment(s)
Had same problem as M.Abramowicz with the unthreaded bulkhead, but just tapped it and the rest of the build went smoothly.
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Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz
(Post 8341625)
Ugh!
No thread in 31309 :( :( It really sucks ... it made me closer to bd5 :( Now I know why tc6 is cheap ... Attachment 680237 AGHR!!!!!! I can do it at home but it need 1 more hole in main chassis .... F.....k!!!!!!! Now I'm at beggining of build :( what next is f***ed at factory??? :( :flaming: :cry: :cry: :cry: |
Shared TC5/TC6 Parts
Here is a list of shared parts between the two cars. If there is something I missed, please add the part# and I will add it to the list. I did not add the hardware.
Hope this helps. Part # Item 1401 FT Blue Titanium Turnbuckles, 1.30"/33mm 1403 FT Titanium Turnbuckle, 1.65", blue 1418 FT .825" Turnbuckles, Ver. 2 2230 Front & Rear Body Mounting Posts 31058 FT Blue Roll Bar Ballstud 31162 Axle Shim Set 31166 Diff Rebuild Kit 31169 Diff Pulley, 40T 31173 Slipper Spool Pads 31184 TC5 Cam Holder Set 31185 Diff Bearing Cam 31187 Front Belt 31188 Rear Belt 31198 Arm Mount Shim Set 31200 Wheelbase Shim Set 31205 Front Suspension Arm 31206 Rear Suspension Arm 31212 Caster Block, 4° 31214 Caster Block Bushing 31215 Steering Block Set 31218 Rear Hub, 0° 31221 Inner Hinge Pin Set 31222 Outer Hinge Pin Set 31227 CVA Rebuild Kit 31231 CVA Stub Axle 31232 CVA Bone 31233 FT Axle Crush Tube 31234 FT Clamping Wheel Hex 31237 CVA Pin Retaining Clip 31238 FT CVA Bone Blade 31249 Shock Shaft Ball Cup 31250 FT Shock Bushing 31261 FT Roll Bar, 1.25mm 31264 Anti-Roll Bar Mount 31269 FT Anti-Roll Bar Kit 31280 Ballstud, short, 5mm 31281 Ballstud, short, 8mm 31286 FT Ballstud Washer, aluminum 31400 Bearing, 5 x 8mm 31401 Bearing, 10 x 15mm 31404 Bearing, 6 x 10mm 31556 TC5 Castor Blocks, 2° (Hard) 31558 TC5 Castor Blocks, 6° (Hard) 31563 Rear Hubs, 0.5° (Hard) 31564 Rear Hubs, 1° (Hard) 3897 Pivoting Body Mounts, 8 body clips 3906 D-Drive Ring 3941 FT Green Spring, 12.0 lbs. 3942 FT Silver Spring, 14.5 lbs. 5407 Red Silicone O-Ring 6465 Shock Piston, PTFE 6475 Preload Spacers, Collars, Cups 6573 Diff Thrust Washers and Bolt 6574 Precision Diff Thrust Ball, 5/64" 6581 Carbide Diff Ball, large, 3/32" 6582 Diff Thrust Spring 8828 Anti-Roll Bar Cup Set 9180 Servo Horns, molded ************* All FT Srings Fit ************* All Caster Blocks ************* All Rear Hubs |
1 Attachment(s)
Also made me angry screws on main chassis ...
Chassis is not flat, they are a little up then chassis :( Ugh, changed to another from my box ;) Btw I repair bulk head :) Attachment 680595 3.5mm thread M3, longer screw and done. Also I wait for ae replay wtf with this part ;) |
Wow, the quality seems pretty top notch from what I've seen here... :rolleyes: For TC kits to cost what they do this type of shit is absurd. Sounds like Associated needs to clean house in the quality control department and not focus so much on the quantity of kits they're getting out the door.
Let me add that over the years I have owned more Associated cars than I can count so it's not a brand flame, its fact based on observations. I guess for a toy car that cost $400 before spending several hundred more dollars for it to become operational I may have some ridiculous expectations, like having all the hardware to put the thing together and things fitting together properly. |
The screws don't bother me.. Some Tamiya, Schumacher kits were the same. I actually like them that way.. If you run asphalt it'll scrape the screws first instead of the chassis. It does not affect performance or adjustability either.
I had a Tamiya kit with the wrong bulkheads in the box.. A Xray T3 11 with burred screws and one without any threads. I believe less than a handful have reported issues... My 2 kits were flawless. No one is perfect. But for the performance and price it can't be beat. |
Originally Posted by trerc
(Post 8346019)
Sounds like Associated needs to clean house in the quality control department and not focus so much on the quantity of kits they're getting out the door.
I can take this job ;) in good salary ;) |
swap top deck screws for chassis screws and its sorted :)
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Whats the verdict on the new VCS3 shocks as compared to the TC5.
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wow
I have one kit left in stock. I am wondering with all these problems if i shouldn't just send it back. I don't race TC so i wouldn't have built it or even known about these problems without this forum.
HMMMM |
This is a good question. I think you have a 50/50 chance if your kit has any problems. I got my kit in middle november and it was perfect, no issues.
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Originally Posted by wtcc
(Post 8346955)
This is a good question. I think you have a 50/50 chance if your kit has any problems. I got my kit in middle november and it was perfect, no issues.
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Perfect kit here.. :nod:
As for the VCS3 shocks- they're SLIGHTLY easier to build (not that the old ones were hard..), but they didn't feel any smoother than my TC5 shocks, so I don't really consider them to be THAT big of an improvement. Associated shocks have always been easy to build and felt smooth for me, so my opinion probably won't be worth $.02..:lol: That being said, my only real gripe about the shocks is the pistons. They didn't come on the molded tree like they used to. They were already separated, and I had to clean up the flashing on every one of them. With the older pistons, you could usually pull downward on the pistons to snap them off the tree and about 90% of the time there was no flashing (the instructions even demonstrated the proper method for doing this). It was also nice to keep the unused pistons on the tree so that you could grab the size you needed as fit, rather than dig through a pile of individual pistons to find the correct numbers. Petty gripe, but still an annoyance. Just a note to AE- don't try to fix what never was broken.:confused: |
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