What length should the shocks be on a 6.1? Should the shaft be screwed all the way into the bottom mount or should their be threads showing?

Equal lengths is the answer. The manual doesnt really say a spec for the length but I would screw all of them all the way in and then measure and adjust them all to be equal to the longest one.

Tc6 or tc6.1 or
 

I just pruchesed a used tc6 but doing some research I think it may be a 6.1 or not even positive it's that either. I don't know what there is too look for to see which one I would have since I am new to touring cars. Any help would be appreciated! I'm new to this page and I Tried to upload an image but it says upload failed

email me a picture of the top at one end (shock tower, etc) and a detail of one corner of the suspension.

[email protected]

Scott

Okay this might be a random question but I have a few guys at my local track asking to buy my tc6.2 roller and spare parts because I have decided to focus on VTA, F1 and 1/8 GT. Now I am not exactly a motivated seller I would eventually like to try mod touring during our fall season. Plus I just like to keep all my cars. This car is in great condition as well, because I have not really used it.

Okay so main question what is normally a fair price for this car as a roller? Also I have my race used body (beat up) plus a completely brand new painted but unused mazada race body. Three sets of unused tires muchmore 28,32,36. Plus a bunch of spare parts like belts, spurs, the stupid plastic things on the drive shafts that always break that go into the outdrives, arms, hub carries you get the idea. It is enough that your race day should not end unless it gets run over. I have been offered 130, and 150 which I both feel are kind of lowball for all of that, especially considering there are 90 dollars of unused tires alone. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

A 6.2 in good condition with all the adjustment inserts and a minimal supply of spare parts you describe is probably a $150 roller. The tires may or may not have value to the buyer of the chassis, perhaps sell them separately or hold out for a bit more.

Scott

Good advise, thank you very much sir.

I have exactly the same feelings on selling my old stuff. The way I see it is that if its used, its worth half plus condition. Meaning +$ for better condition -$ for worse condition. Or even less depending on need and situation (more on that later). As for spare parts they add value in about the 50-75% of new range. You can always sell them separately for at least that. Tires and bodies vary since they are a preference item.

With all that said I usually never sell my old stuff. For the fact that I'd rather look at it on my wall more than I am willing or in need to take half price of what I paid. The one exception is that if I see a new driver that would love and care for my babies the way I would, I'd give it to them for free or at a greatly reduced price just to have it used and raced like it was meant to be.

I'd keep it if you are going to use it later. Or sell it to someone that really wants/needs it and would be a good addition to the class, not just some dude looking for a great deal.

Does anybody know if steel spur gears are available for this car? Or know someone who could make them, I actually own a Serpent 748e but the spurs are interchangeable!

I know next to nothing about the Serpent but a couple things about the TC6's

1) The chassis can accept any standard pan car spur gear I've thrown at it. If it has an "even" number of holes in a circle it should bolt right on.

2) They don't need a steel spur gear...I havent managed to damage a spur gear since forever, going back eight or more years with my TC5 (through TC6.1-6.2 and now TC7). In fact I use 84-pitch gears on my TC7's, those require GREAT care, the teeth are tiny!

3) Adding weight to rotating parts reduces acceleration.

Pretty much any spur gears I've ever seen on-road have been motors that:

a) weren't tightened down enouth

b) hit something REALLY hard head on and moved the motor forward

c) hadn't been re-adjusted (easy to forget on a race day with several cars) after changing pinion

Scott

The car is used for speed runs so that's the reason for needing steel spur gears, I've already smoothed 3 plastic spurs at over 130mph, I'll check around some more though thanks, Mike Powell

Im bought a used tc6.1 to run usgt. The car has 2 spool slipper diffs in it. Is it better to buy the lock spool for the front and the gear diff for the rear, or would I be okay with 2 spool slippers? And what oils would be the bet for med-high bite carpet medium size track?

Slipper spool should be fine up front, but I'd definitely avoid using it in the rear. I can't see why anyone would have set it up like that, do you actually mean the slipper spool (locked but can slip in a crash) or do you mean a standard ball diff?

I just tore the rear apart and it has a ball diff, same as the front. They consider the slipper spool the same as a ball diff correct? They both have d shaped diff rings.

No, a slipper spool is different to a ball diff. The TC5 and TC6 slipper spool was basically the ball diff, but with the balls removed and the diff rings replaced with slipper pads.