I agree. This is a good chassis and design - of course, most of the late TC's are. I finally was able to get my TC6.1WC chassis out to the track and put some practice laps on it. Was a ton of fun to drive!

Had to get a new gear diff to put in the front (run on carpet) as the previous owner had a gear diff in the front, but, upon inspection I had to "pry" it apart with a flat head screw driver. And yes, I had removed the diff half screws. It had what looked to be "shoe goo", or something similar, and practically wouldn't rotate, even using some channel lock pliers. It was almost like they had lost the front-spool but needed it in there. So, I got a new one (don't know how I could have got that one clean without ruining it) and filled it with 30WT [instead of the recommended 40Wt] and threw it in there and headed to the track last night.

The car was fantastic! It went from a spin-out monster to a very consistent lapper - it's just been years since I have run some sedans, so I will need to put in some practice. The car will need to fine-tuned to the track and, honestly, I think running a touch of drag brake and the car will be $$$.

Anyway, thanks for reading if you did, but wanted to chime in about the "still" potential of this 'ole car.

Thanks for the suggestion, I will try the front diff because right now is hard to drive with so much steering sensitivity. It has come a long way but I believe this car can still deliver it.

got the TC6.1 to the track Wednesday and was running some practice laps. Car was consistently getting faster. I invested in some tire warmers for it and was eager to try them out. Ran the first test without them, then ran a session using the warmers set to 95*. I can say that the warmers definitely had an affect. The car was pretty much "hooked-up" almost as soon as I threw it on the carpet. Where as without the warmers it was taking a good 7-10 laps to get the car to be consistent.

I think with some messing about with the temps on the tire warmers, and some more practice this will be an enjoyable chassis. But, on my last test session right before the racing started I smacked the inside barrier going onto the straight [confidence was really building with the handling of the chassis] and snapped the chub on the front left!

And of course, that was the one main suspension piece I didn't have in my pit box!! Haha!! So waiting for some parts to come in, but am jonesing to get back out there and run some USGT - now to paint up the Protoform Caddy body. . .

This post is a work in progress.


How to make your TC6 series car a close TC7 suspension geometry wise:

-shortest front and rear camber link on the TC6 and TC6.2 (the TC6.1WC camber link holes are setup like the TC7, except the shims) and for those with the TC6 use 1-3 hole on the shock tower and A on hub. The hole on the TC6 tower equivalent to the TC7 starting setup is #1.
-the wheel hexes have +1mm offset on the TC6 series compared to the TC7 hexes, that means with the same arm mount setting the TC7 has longer front arms IF the overall width is the same, which I think it is because the camber link length is the same for the TC6.2 and TC7 save for the rear camber link on the TC6.2 and they have same wheel alignment.
-wheelbase, still unresearched.
-shock setup, still unresearched but using TC7 shocks might be better in the long term.
-Ackerman is similar across the TC6 series and the TC7.
-shims and camber link balls, still unresearched as the balls are silver all around for the TC7 and a mix of them in the TC6 series.
-roll bars, still unresearched.
-diff height is low on the TC7, one step lower than the TC6.2.
-the TC5/6 front arms are longer then the TC6.1 and .2 front arms, they should be close to TC7 arms.
-the TC5/6 rear arms are shorter then the TC6.1 and .2 rear arms, they should be close to TC7 arms. Hub offset is close/equal between TC5/6 and TC7.
-...

I know the stearing rack setup is different on the 7 to the 6.2.

I have been working on a TC6.1 and comparing it to a 7. I am building it like it was 2011 but adding a few TC7 things to keep my spares the same.

So far....

-Full Exotek chassis conversion with steering
-Litemodz EVO2 CVS
-Installing TC7 floating steering steering posts to float it
-TC7 steering blocks and Castor Blocks since I refuse to run the TC6 steering blocks..

This thread shows how I modified a TC6.1 Worlds to use the factory TC6.2 TC4/TC5 arm mod (TC7 Prototype).

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...-1-worlds.html

Just finished mounting a new body - a buddy painted it for me - did Johnny O'Connell's (Johnny Red) Pirelli WC Cadillac. I think it looks great!













He painted the carbon fiber look on the hood vent and rear wing. Guy is pretty amazing with an airbrush.
Thanks for looking!

Very nice looking scheme and bodyshell.

Good news.
The changes I've made to the shocks and camber link geometry cured all the oversteer and twitchyness of the car. It is now a car more than capable of fast laps while being easier to drive. If it is as good as any current car I don't know but will find out soon. Small changes from the stock TC6 setup, mainly shocks mounted in on the arms (for a 50:50 weight bias), kept the lower arm positions from the stock TC6 setup (vital!) and front camber link setup of the TC7 and the rear one is one hole longer (out on the rear upright).

I got an TC6.2 and want to use it for club racing with 17,5T on carpet. Compared to the others my car tends to traction roll. I use yokomo blue spring all around and 32,5wt oil. Inserts 3dots in the front to increase track width.

How it's possible to decrease grip at the front?

Can you post or pm a setup sheet with the rest of your setup? What is the track and tire you are running?

I can dig out the setup I ran successfully with 17.5t if you like.

Off top of my head I would suggest going to a yokomo pink spring up front.

Found out the springs I have are HPI silvers and the weird chrome ones, silver on front.
The inconsistency and ford mustang like behaviour was cured by stiffening the chassis back to what it was. Both spur holders and all the screws on the top plate. Car drives awesome, doesn't lack anything. Bladders on the other hand...Also tried 2* of rear camber, much more controllable on the limit.

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What length should the shocks be on a 6.1? Should the shaft be screwed all the way into the bottom mount or should their be threads showing?