Okay so use this as an example. The manual says "Use the supplied
symmetric inserts to select rear hub toe angle. The number should be on the
outside of the hub for left and right hubs as shown." It doesnt say, for the front put outside, for the rear put inside, so I must assume that it is number outside on both front and rear on each hub....This picture from the manual of course shows the 0* inserts, but if I were to put the 1* inserts....which my old eyes are having troubles seeing a 1 degree shift of the hole location...would the number be on the outside on both front and rear on the same hub? It seems to me that it would then be that the hole is slightly shifted in the same direction, thus making it a 0 again. Am I looking at this wrong?

Okay. I figured it out. Trying to diagnose something from my desk at work doesn't help when the car is at home. Anyways, the number on the outside of the rear of the hub and inside on the front of the din is what gives the 1* toe in. The directions don't say that though....oh well. Live and learn.

The inserts have a tongue on one edge and a slot on the opposite side, these locate into each other

Put my TC6 VTA out on the track for the first time tonight, very impressed with the handling over my top photon :D I'm running Alan Bachman's setup on it, and its very easy to drive. Car has a TON of steering, I had to dial it down with expo.

My only concern so far is the rear camber link turnbuckles hit the shock towers if the shocks are compressed enough. I dont think this will be an issue, but it bothers me. I'm running the links on the bulkheads, not the towers if that matters.

I had to steal some body posts from the photon, the stock tc6 ones weren't tall enough for the camaro body. Do they make some that are longer? I want to keep the photon for friends to run.

I also don't like that the shock ends are ball cups, I prefer screws. Ill probably change those out for the photon style ones.

Can you post your VTA setup sheet for us to see?

As for extra long body posts, I use the 3rcacing body posts for the Sakura FF, as they are extra long at the front and rear:

The other day I installed a heatsink w/fan onto my TC6. I was shocked to see that the heatsink fins nearly contacted the motor's solder tabs even though I have it pushed as far away from them as possible.

I was thinking about putting some electrical tape on the sides of the fins to help insulate the fins from the motor leads. Another option I thought of was to Dremel the offending fins away. If a pic would help, I can get one this evening.

How do the rest of you deal with this situation?

I went without a heat sync for the motor and just attached a 30mm fan with one of these.
http://www.reflexracing.net/RSD-TC6-...unt_p_809.html
So far it has worked great. I have only had it for about 3 weeks.

Hey guys, I recently picked up a used TC6 and I plan to run it in the local Mod class out in Austin,TX (asphalt parking lot track).

I'm having a hard time finding literature that lists recommended staring points for FDR's with respective turn ratings on motors. I've found some dead links to Novak's website but can't seem to locate anything concrete using Google search.

The TC6 manual defers to motor manufacturer suggested gear ratio for starting point, but my TrackStar motor doesn't provide any recommendations. Then I went to Novak and Reedy to no avail either, they do provide spec charts for all the basic info, but nothing is mentioned for a given FDR.

My 3.5T motor just arrived today, but some folks are recommending a 5.5T may be more suitable for our size track.

I was hoping it would be nice if the FDR could be the same between both motors so I could at least play with the 3.5T with the EPA turned down while I wait for a 5.5T to come in.

Will someone please point me in the right direction to an FDR chart for the TC6 that cross references to a motors turn?

Thanks!

Bill, with a 3.5T I would start around 9.2 overall. A 3.5T is very powerful so temp it after 2-3 minutes of runtime. Don't run any boost. If the motor is under 180 degrees, you are good to go. If it's too fast, you can gear down or turn down your end points on your radio.

Thanks Christian, I most certainly plan on dialing back the EPA, though I have some experience running my GT8 with a 4168-2350kV motor on 6S which can reach some fairly high speeds on the back straight as well, it will be interesting to compare the two setups granted I am spoiled with my GT8 usually coming off the track at a cool 140° - 145°, probably because the straight line bursts down the back straight are usually less than a couple seconds with the rest of the layout barely hitting 1/4 throttle.

New setup posted
 

Rick Hohwart - ROAR Carpet Nationals

This setup was very consistent and easy to drive while using mostly AE parts. The only additions were Losi pistons and RSD bladders/DCJ.

Thanks! I just placed an order for one. Maybe you or Christian can answer this, but I already have a 3 Racing fan/heatsink like the one Christian sells. Do you happen to know if it's the 30mm size that'll bolt up? If not I suppose it would only be a matter of drilling an extra mounting hole?

It looks like a 30mm fan but I am not sure. I'm sure Christian can help out there.
That said if it is not a 30mm fan just use one bolt. When I spoke with Christian about this mount he said that a 25mm fan works fine with one bolt.

Cool, thanks! I went ahead and purchased a second one for my other TC6. :nod: