DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

Question: I have my TC6.1 working okay, not great (I did threaten to destroy the car a few weeks back but now it's not so bad) but I observed something quite strange. I own four cheap 1kg scales, and placing them on my granite floor with dead-nuts equal spring preload and ride height all around the car had two wheels reading nearly 90 grams more weight at rest than the other two... this is a massive crossweight!
This doesn't strike me as normal. The car is not tweaked, accelerates straight and turns equally in both directions. It's just that the discrepency is huge! I am going to move the battery and such around to see if I can balance the car out but I wish I knew how it got to be so wrong to begin with.

On the upside, I did properly cut out my new body, always a crowd favorite that one.

CristianTabush

iTrader: (13)

Measure your spring lengths and make sure that they are all the same length. Could be that there is an actual "tweak" to the car and this is masking it.

Also, if you are using scales, make sure that they are all level, and the same height. (I know this is basic stuff).

Which tires are heavy?

jha07

iTrader: (3)

I've got 4 scales as well, and use them to set my tweak regularly.

First thing you need to check is that the scales are all level. I know you said you're using a granite floor, but the scales themselves could be a bit off. It's doesn't take much to cause a 90 gram difference.

After all four scales are perfectly level, I use the spring collars to get the cross weights equal. I almost never have my collars set equal left to right, but I trust what my scales are telling me. The reason I think the collars aren't equal is because nothing is exactly equally from left to right. Things like a slight difference in spring length create this.

rangerjkb

iTrader: (45)

Possibly check shim spacing, etc. I used the TC6.1 spool in the TC6 as a direct fit.

imajerky

iTrader: (16)

Hey all,

I have a 6.1 that I have a few questions on. I'm a regular off road racer but our local track paved an old tennis court, outdoor season is fast approaching. It is basically stock. I popped for some of the RSD springs, black, pink and green. I also ordered the RSD clear 10mm bladders and 3x1.1 pistons to copy a few medium traction asphalt setups. One of the items i'm also looking at is running a gear diff up front. The medium used to fill the diff is listed as putty, I figured it was cleaning putty (ordered some also) but have not popped for the front gear diff yet. What does running basically a locked gear diff feel like or offer over the spool? The car was pretty good and was competitive, especially for having no clue what droop and all sorts of new onroad terms that I don't have to worry about in offroad. I just would like to be a bit better prepared in a few months. Thanks.

RussF

iTrader: (22)

For me the "locked" front gear diff offered more turn-in while still having lots of exit steering. I used a moldable eraser to fill the diff with. Works good and I think I will replace the slipper spool I have in my VTA car with one. You will like the RSD stuff.

trigger

iTrader: (15)

This question is for Christian, just ordered the RSD 6.2 chassis conversion for my tc6, besides a servo saver. Is there anything else I need like certain size camber links and ball cups,or will I be able to utilize my original links and cups for the steering linkage?

KC10Chief

iTrader: (1)

I have the same chassis. I love it! Yes, you will need a servo saver. You can still use your ball cups, ball ends, and everything. The only thing you will need to change, is the steering turnbuckle. The stock one is about 15mm if I remember right. You will need a 25mm. Christian sells one on his site and I have it in my car as well.
http://www.reflexracing.net/RSD6-Tit...ge_p_1245.html

Also, I would recommend some longer screws for the servo mount and really crank them down!
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Head-Screws-10

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

In terms of weight distribution, is 50:50 front to rear the ideal number?

silvalis

iTrader: (29)

I just started putting together the shocks in my WC kit (first assoc kit!) and have noticed this weird ribbing on one of the shock shafts. It's causing a slight binding.

Has anyone else come across something like this?

Big Features

iTrader: (4)

Sometimes you'll get piston rub if you do not trim them carefully. Build your shocks with AE "Green Slime" and all should be butter.

-Mike

rangerjkb

iTrader: (45)

+1 on RussF post IRT gear diff feel. The Spool is posi-trac and initially will offer more push entering corners off power (requiring suspension tuning to get back entry turn in). On power the Spool offers more acceleration. I prefer the Spool for carpet and asphalt, but it's all driver preference. It did take a few heat races to tune car and get used to the Spool vs. Splipper or Gear Diff up front.

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

There is no ideal number, but a region and with 50:50 you are in the middle of it. I for myself prefer a little more weight in the back of the car as it it turns in more easy and equals the heavy motor in the rear.

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

Something I learned the hard way is that most of those little digital scales are not calibrated. You will need a calibration weight to check each scale to make sure they all read the same value. I think most of them need about 500 grams to validate their accuracy. Mine were off by as much as 75 grams. Don't think that by simply "zeroing" the scales, they are equal. That's not the same as calibrating.

imajerky

iTrader: (16)

Thanks to you and RussF. I'll have to wait a bit until onroad starts (Washington weather... I'll have some more questions later, thanks for the replies.