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Originally Posted by kewdawg
(Post 11523901)
He's too old, now. He's like 70! Don't be fooled by Tv. He only plays an unbeatable tough guy. Plus, he would need an attorney after trying anything remotely physical. ;)
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Originally Posted by Mr.juarez
(Post 11523945)
Have you seen the video of the old white guy beating the crap out of that black guy in frisco? Dont let age fool you :lol:
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Originally Posted by kewdawg
(Post 11523181)
Is it me or is that hair piece looking ridiculous on ol' Chuck?!:eek:
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Originally Posted by IndyHobbies.com
(Post 11524045)
It's not a hair piece, it's what is left of his dinner he killed himself a couple of hours earlier. :)
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TC5 TC6 parts interchange
I am looking to put some better axles in my TC5 , will the after market ones made for the TC6 work ? And how about the diffs ?
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http://cencalracing.smugmug.com/Othe...erail-31-M.jpg
Lol Does anyone make titanium, hinge pins or titanium axles? |
So, I'm looking at the RSD6 conversion kits again for my TC6.1 WC. There is the 2.0mm chassis and the 2.5mm chassis. Which one should I choose and why?
I am racing on medium grip carpet with foam tires. We usually have a straight away, but we also have some tight turns as well. The track is different every week. Thoughts? EDIT: I just noticed the RSD6.2 Evo kit. I definitely like the steering servo setup better. I'm not sure about the battery mounting though. Can I still use my RSD battery hold down system that I bought for the kit chassis? |
Originally Posted by KC10Chief
(Post 11525186)
So, I'm looking at the RSD6 conversion kits again for my TC6.1 WC. There is the 2.0mm chassis and the 2.5mm chassis. Which one should I choose and why?
I am racing on medium grip carpet with foam tires. We usually have a straight away, but we also have some tight turns as well. The track is different every week. Thoughts? They have 3 versions. 1. 2.0 kit 2. 2.5 kit 3. New kit without the center holes and a one piece servo arm. Im not an expert on this but I opted for the 2.5mm chassis. It was a big improvement along with the dual steering cranks compared to the wet noodle stock tc6 chassis. Car is way planted now.also the slightly thicker the less chance of snapping it? Seen a few one snap the rear section but not on tc6 cars Take a look at exotek kit as well, believe they come with the hinge holders |
Originally Posted by Mr.juarez
(Post 11525261)
They have 3 versions.
1. 2.0 kit 2. 2.5 kit 3. New kit without the center holes and a one piece servo arm. Im not an expert on this but I opted for the 2.5mm chassis. It was a big improvement along with the dual steering cranks compared to the wet noodle stock tc6 chassis. Car is way planted now.also the slightly thicker the less chance of snapping it? Seen a few one snap the rear section but not on tc6 cars Take a look at exotek kit as well, believe they come with the hinge holders |
Hey fellas, I picked up the floating servo mount from Reflex racing. Where is the hole that need to be drilled on my worlds chassis?
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Originally Posted by beyondthepack
(Post 11525361)
Hey fellas, I picked up the floating servo mount from Reflex racing. Where is the hole that need to be drilled on my worlds chassis?
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Originally Posted by KC10Chief
(Post 11525396)
It's not there yet because you haven't drilled it! :D Sorry I'm so useless.
If you gotta ask...maybe power tools ain't your thing. :eek: |
What capacity or weight battery packs should I be using to have good left to right balance?
I've got 5200mah packs and 6600mah packs, even some 4200mah shorty packs too. Is this something to worry about? I want to buy new packs so I need to figure out what a good capacity or weight to shoot for is. |
Originally Posted by lagcisco
(Post 11525545)
What capacity or weight battery packs should I be using to have good left to right balance?
I've got 5200mah packs and 6600mah packs, even some 4200mah shorty packs too. Is this something to worry about? I want to buy new packs so I need to figure out what a good capacity or weight to shoot for is. Put in your 5200 and see if the car is a little heavy on the electronics side or not. Add weight on the battery side to make it balanced and then weigh the pack and weights together to see what to shoot for. If the battery side is heavy at first, use a lighter pack and add weight to make it balanced. And so on... Now depending on what class you are running will determine capacity and "C" rating requirements. |
Originally Posted by KC10Chief
(Post 11525305)
Thanks for the quick reply! It looks like the new kit has a 2.25mm chassis. What do you mean by no center holes and what would the advantage be?
The new chassis is more than just a different thickness. It has much different flex characteristics and there are slight changes to geometry. For one, the steering system was moved back 1mm. This allows to run a shorter front wheelbase to gain steering on the car and use more ackerman (less shims) to gain corner speed. The battery is also able to move furter back and further forward to further improve chassis balance adjustment. There are balance holes on the chassis and less cutouts at the bottom for better high speed stability. The bulkhead openings are also smaller and the standard TC6 steering system is also usable now. All of the items are further refinements of the first generation chassis. Personally I feel like the car is more versatile. It can be tuned for more flex or less flex. I also think it has more steering. The flex was tuned to provide this. Last night when we ran at our local track I got to run a production sample and my car was far superior to everyone elses. I usually am about 1-2 tenths quicker than the second fastest guy (many times the same fast lap) at our local track. Last night, I was about 4-5 tenths quicker. The grip was medium. Everyone was sliding. Except for me :P |
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