Originally Posted by LasagnaCat (Post 10708434)

At Leisure... no. We have two 6.1's, one stock and the other has the Reflex dcj's. While the dcj's make it look/feel nice on your car stand, lap times are the same for me with either car - no difference in on-track feel either. Both have identical setups/gearing/etc., the only difference is the dcj's. Maybe on a smaller, tighter track (or on carpet?) it may make a slight difference... but I'd either save the money or spend it elsewhere. Loose side note, remember that most people are looking at the full-lock wheel chatter with the car up on a stand and with no load on the suspension... hard to see what's really happening with the car on-track and at speed in a corner.

How much time is spent at full left/right anyway? A good entry line will eliminate a lot of that on a large flowing track. Full wheel lock is often after you've either not slowed down enough and/or entered the corner wrong - the point of no return. :nod:

Originally Posted by jhautz (Post 10707631)

I was just reading the comments below about the front wheels chattering when turning. I was trying to figure out how to get rid of this just last night. I am putting together a new TC6 kit and as I was testing things I noticed that it had some really bad wheel chatter when the wheels were turned to full lock. I couldn't find anything wrong and assumed it was the CVDs causing it. But I also have a TC6.1 that I already had and that car does not have any wheel chatter at all. The front wheels stay perfectly smooth. Is there a difference in the CVDs from the TC6 to the TC6.1? I didn't think there was a difference, but I am pretty new to these cars and on road in general. I know I would freak out if one of my off road cars has that bad of a vibration when turning.

I'm trying to figure out why one of my cars has such severe chatter and the other has none at all. Something seems weird. I bought the TC6 kit from someone who had partially built it but never got around to finishing it so the CVD's were already assembled when I got it. I'm wondering if they did something wrong when they put them together since my other car is so smooth.

One thing I did different on the smooth TC6.1 was when I built the CVDs I left the set screw out of it since it had the snap ring to retain the pin and I put a piece of shrink tube over the snap ring as added security. This is something I did on my offroad cars to help reduce wear of the pin and joint in the CVD. Im wondering if removing the set screw and letting the pin move a little more free in the joint would help cut down the vibration. Anyone ever find a solution for this? Or maybe a way to make it less severe. I dont really want to spend a bunch of money on fancy aftermarket CVDs, Im just planning to use this for a VTA car. It just bugs me as it is. :(

Originally Posted by Sean Cochran (Post 10708912)

The cvas are different from the TC6 to the TC6.1. Axles different size and bones slightly different length, not sure actual measurment. The biggest difference though is change in vendor, seems to be better tolerances on the new cvas.

Also leaving the set screw out will for sure make the cva smoother.

Originally Posted by Sean Cochran (Post 10708912)

The cvas are different from the TC6 to the TC6.1. Axles different size and bones slightly different length, not sure actual measurment. The biggest difference though is change in vendor, seems to be better tolerances on the new cvas.

Also leaving the set screw out will for sure make the cva smoother.

Originally Posted by LasagnaCat (Post 10708434)

At Leisure... no. We have two 6.1's, one stock and the other has the Reflex dcj's. While the dcj's make it look/feel nice on your car stand, lap times are the same for me with either car - no difference in on-track feel either. Both have identical setups/gearing/etc., the only difference is the dcj's. Maybe on a smaller, tighter track (or on carpet?) it may make a slight difference... but I'd either save the money or spend it elsewhere. Loose side note, remember that most people are looking at the full-lock wheel chatter with the car up on a stand and with no load on the suspension... hard to see what's really happening with the car on-track and at speed in a corner.

How much time is spent at full left/right anyway? A good entry line will eliminate a lot of that on a large flowing track. Full wheel lock is often after you've either not slowed down enough and/or entered the corner wrong - the point of no return. :nod:

Originally Posted by erchn (Post 10707181)

Good race report. Thanks for sharing! Do you have a setup sheet to share with racers coming in for the Reedy race?

Originally Posted by jirish617 (Post 10715943)

hey guys, can anyone give me a ballpark of where to start with gearing. Im new to onroad, it will have a revtech 5.5t

Originally Posted by jirish617 (Post 10715943)

hey guys, can anyone give me a ballpark of where to start with gearing. Im new to onroad, it will have a revtech 5.5t

Originally Posted by CristianTabush (Post 10716054)

What's the track size? On a 100ft straightaway track, I would start around 27 or 28/115.

Originally Posted by jirish617 (Post 10715943)

Im new to onroad, it will have a revtech 5.5t

Originally Posted by LasagnaCat (Post 10718540)

That didn't make anyone else nervous? :nod: