Sean Cochran

iTrader: (1)

Associated has the bearing that will be needed to use the RSD driveshafts with TC6 steering blocks. AE #91156 5x10x3 metal shielded bearings 1 pair
They used to be a difficult bearing to find as it was not a standard size.

icefish

does good charger and battery help on performance? and also did a good charger really help to keep more life for a battery ( for good battery and normal cheap battery ). let say i've a turnigy nano-tech 6000mah 65-130c 2s battery, how many A should i go on it? because normally i only put at 4.0A to charge it.

next question, i need help on tuning/adjust a car tweak, hope can explain in more simple way to me. thanks.

dennisV

You are safe when you charge with 1C, which is for 6000mAh 6A. With 4A you are safe too, but charging just takes longer.

piper48

Good charger and batteries will help in performance. As for life..depends on charging and storage method. Also the amount of cycles you put on the battery. For 6000mah charge at 6.0 amps. 5000mah 5.0 amps 5300mah 5.3 amps etc. etc. Tuning I can't help with it. As for chassis tweak...common method would be to loosen top deck screws and re-tighten. Be sure lower deck is flat before tightening. Just my .02 cents.

hermet

iTrader: (1)

Just wondering if anyone has tried Olly Jefferies setup and what are their thoughts. I have made a few of the changes from stock setup to Olly Jefferies setup and have had good results. The setup is the closest I can find to suit the track I race at, it is a low to medium grip outdoor asphalt.

Rick Hohwart

The difference is that you can make finer adjustments. For example, if you use a black ball stud with no washers, it is like using the #3 position on the shock tower. Adding 2.5mm under the ball stud is like using the #1 position on the shock tower. So with the new setup you have the ability to set the ball stud height anywhere in this range rather than be restricted to two options.

Always charge at the manufacturer's recommended rate. Charging at higher rates may reduce the cycle life of the battery. I see no evidence where charging at a higher rate improves performance. In my opinion, the only benefit is that the battery charges faster.

With your battery, you should be able to charge at a 6A rate at least.

The way LiPo charging works, no charger should be able to give an advantage. But what does differ between chargers is the maximum charge voltage. Many chargers will only charge a battery to 8.35V (even if the screen shows differently). So if the maximum allowed voltage under the rules is higher than this (which all are), you are giving up some performance.

A charger with an adjustable voltage cutoff or what is sometimes called "voltage calibration" allows the user to fine tune the voltage cutoff so that the final voltage will match what is allowable under the rules. I know the LRP Pulsar 3 and Pulsar touch have this feature. Some other high-end chargers might as well but I don't know them off the top of my head.

I have run Olly's "Testing" setup from Cotswolds with good luck. I ran it at the ROAR Carpet Nats and this past weekend at the Tamiya USA track with a few changes. Both of these events are what I would call medium grip. I will post my version of this setup shortly.

Rick Hohwart

Rick Hohwart - Speedtech Grand Club Race 2 - Tamiya USA Raceway

Kensei

Sorry. My bad.

LasagnaCat

iTrader: (161)

I'm having a hard time finding more of the batteries we were running last year in our TC6's. There are many other brands and options available out there to be found, but I'm having a hard time finding packs that are the same weight as the handful we have left. I did manage to find some packs that are three grams lighter than the packs we have left, so my question...

Just HOW much of a difference would three grams make in balance and setup? We have two cars, and enough packs to run one brand in one car and the other in the second.. but to help keep my sanity this summer it would be much simpler to have them be mix and match. I know I could add weight to the new packs, but I'd prefer not to if need be because we also run them in our offroad vehicles and weights would just get in the way there. My other half runs onroad with me, so anything that simplifies things is helpful.

or8ital

iTrader: (38)

3 grams would not be noticable. I think a 4mm stainless steel screw is 1.4g if I remember correctly. A pack moved over .5mm to one side would probably have a bigger impact on balance than 3g.

LasagnaCat

iTrader: (161)

Thanks for the input. I'm already having what seems like a harder than it should be time with car balance. Tried using the Hudy balance buttons, and the cars seem to just sit on them without moving unless you nudge it far enough (either way) to the point where it clunks over and falls all the way down. Tried the fishing line through the shock towers approach, and the cars are kinda/sorta level but tend to slightly lean to the left or the right sometimes. No rhyme or reason as to the very slight lean, if you put it down and pick it up again it may go one way or the other.

Am I just to the point where it's reasonably well balanced and I can stop fiddling with this, or is there a better/simpler method to this? If it were that far out of whack, it would of course lean the same way every time - and it doesn't. Still in bench racing mode until outdoor Sunday racing starts, is it summer yet?

wtcc

iTrader: (2)

3 grams is the difference between my two Reedy LiPos which have the same item number.
Really, up to 10 grams per side weight difference are hardly noticeable...

JamesL_71

iTrader: (13)

Basically, yes. The Hudy balance pins work well for determining if your car has a serious imbalance, but they won't tell that one side if 5-10g heavier than the other.

As long as things balance out relatively evenly, just drive the car. If you are super meticulous and OCD, you are going to need a 4 scale setup to cornerweight the car.

Biggie85

Hey guys, Just bought a TC6.1. Im going to run it in my 25.5 VTA division at my local track. I was wondering what is a good Pinion/Spur setup for this car so I can get good punch and top speed. I want to run in the 3.7 to 3.5 FDR.

I had my T2 setup with a 96/43 (3.8) with 45 degree timing on the motor and it was very good. Wondering if I should try to keep it as close to that setup as I can with the TC6.1

I'd rather hear from guys that already have raced with the TC6.1 before I make a decision.

Thanks.

hermet

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info Rick. Did you try the Olly Jefferies setup at the Tamiya USA Raceway? I am interested to see what your setup is like on my track.