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Originally Posted by ChampRC
(Post 10534815)
Hey guys, I'm currently running this motor: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ess-Motor-175T.
Other than adjustable timing can one 17.5T motor be faster than another? Why is this one so cheap compared to other stock 17.5T motors without adjustable timing? I run this motor and feel its alittle slow compared to alot of guys I race with, even with boost set to max on my RSpro. I'm running a FDR of 4.93 and getting temps around 140F after 5 min runs. Using a turnigy 2s battery 5000mah at 30-40C. Any suggestions on a quality 17.5T motor...with timing? I know driving has most to do with lap times, but I'm interested in knowing how to judge a good 17.5T motor, for mod racing of course:nod:. The reason its so much cheaper is that it uses a steel can so it cost less to make....but this also means that it will run hotter then most other motors because the steel can traps the heat inside of the motor. Also this motor is much heavier then other motors as well. If you want a faster motor ask what other racers are using at your track and use the same motor and setup they are. |
Originally Posted by HenryC
(Post 10536279)
The part number for the arm mount set is the same between the TC6 and TC6.1. I will keep checking your site and order and a set when they are available.
Henry |
Originally Posted by geeunit1014
(Post 10536531)
You can use the same dogbones. The new ones are slightly shorter, but the old ones still fit no problem
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Hi Guys,
Need some advice on which pinion gear to use.. I am using a 5500KV castle Creations Engine and an 87Spar Gear on my TC6.1 What is the best Pinion to use .. How many tooth.. Don't want to end up with a burned engine.. Thanks a million Cheers, |
Originally Posted by kerb
(Post 10505143)
Can't find them in your store...
Any news on these? Want to buy them, but they are not on there website. Where do you guys get these? Or better mail them and ask? |
Could anyone help with a starting point on FDR for medium size outdoor asphalt track. Orion r10 pro Novak 17.5 boosted combo. Thank you! First time with electric car.
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Originally Posted by Verndog
(Post 10536541)
Thank you for the info Henry, I knew the arms changed but wasn't sure of the mounts. :tire:
-Mike |
Originally Posted by Kensei
(Post 10536977)
TC6 CVJ
Any news on these? Want to buy them, but they are not on there website. Where do you guys get these? Or better mail them and ask? |
Originally Posted by grippgoat
(Post 10538133)
The TC6.1 has the new offset arm mounts. They are the same as the TC6 arm mounts with a 2mm spacer behind them. The TC6.1 still uses the non-offset mounts at the front of the rear hinge pin, though.
-Mike Mike |
Originally Posted by burgboyz
(Post 10536155)
What sold me to the Dial-A-Grips was after I drove the car at half throttle for a few minutes and the came off loose.
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Originally Posted by Big Features
(Post 10538242)
The new mounts are offset because they are 2mm wider at the base near the hinge pin. I use offset mounts at every corner with 12R5 shims with no issues.
Mike I'm very curious why they did this and what end benefit was. Looks like I'll get some shop time this weekend, so those that PMed me check the website later Sunday. :) |
Originally Posted by Verndog
(Post 10538459)
So is the new 6.1 running wider wheelbase or did something else change to bring it back like shorter arm or new C hub? The dial a grip blocks are +1mm over the TC6 stock mount blocks so possibly just 1mm shim for the 6.1?
I'm very curious why they did this and what end benefit was. Looks like I'll get some shop time this weekend, so those that PMed me check the website later Sunday. :) Offset arm mounts help increase durability and minimize shims between mount and bulkhead Any plans on modifying the dial a grips to match the 6.1 offset? |
Originally Posted by thunderbt3
(Post 10538590)
From AE:
Offset arm mounts help increase durability and minimize shims between mount and bulkhead Any plans on modifying the dial a grips to match the 6.1 offset? |
Anti roll bar
Does the kit come with only the 0.9m and 1.1mm or also other thickness?
Which spare parts do I surely have to carry for the TC6.1? - pinions? - belts? - cva blades? other parts that go bust frequently racing this car? |
Originally Posted by Verndog
(Post 10538723)
Not sure, this is new info to me. Given that if I offset the pin hole that will now make a left and right mount, or make them thicker overall, and that can run into interference / clearance issues with certain setups....at this point the lesser of all evils is add 1mm shim for 6.1 front applications. There is no durability issue with the dial a grips, unless they are talking about other parts.
There's one other small difference with the offset blocks: the aluminum insert doesn't quite reach all the way through it. So when you tighten the screw down until the insert touches the bulkhead, it squeezes the block quite tightly. That helps keep the blocks from rotating as much. I'm guessing your dial-a-grips don't use the insert, so it's probably doesn't affect your design. EDIT: I just checked the pictures on your site, and your concern makes more sense. With the AE blocks, there's two version of each block, depending on which end of the hinge pin the block goes on. But it looks like with your blocks, they're symmetrical and you just flip it one way for one end of the pin, and the other way for the other end. So to add another 1mm of offset from the bulkhead, you'd have to make the block another 2mm thicker, or offset the hole making two different blocks. Also, the TC6.1 uses offset blocks in only 6 out of 8 positions. The front of the rear hingepins still uses the non-offset block. -Mike |
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