20LikesTeam Associated TC6 Thread
02-21-2012, 09:09 PM
#5881
Tech Adept
Can anyone do me a favor? Post out a tc6 pic and point out where to adjust Ackerman in tc6. Thanks
02-21-2012, 09:27 PM
#5882
Maybe double check that the servo saver is tight-enough?
I've had a bit of what you describe on my initial run with the TC6.1. The first change I made was to add 1mm between the front hinge pin blocks and the bulkheads, at the suggestion of the fast TC6.1 guy in my club. It made the car work a lot more predictably. I think that took care of most of the "the car wants to keep turrrning on exit" issue.
Also, double check your front toe. I think in the past I've found that front toe-in can make the car want to keep turning on exit a bit, but I can't remember if had that going on with my initial run.
Everyone told me the kit setup on the 6.1 was easy to drive, but I thought it was pretty craptastic on carpet. Maybe I'm doing it wrong.
Changes I've made from kit setup:
- 1mm on front hinge pin blocks - made the car just work smoother
- 5mm droop front and rear, instead of 6 front / 5 rear - made the car more predictable
- 0.5mm on rear/rear blocks - more corner-exit traction, and more stable in a fast transition
- HPI pink / silver springs - car instantly worked better for me, but I don't think it's the right setup, probably has to do with other issues in my setup. Definitely made the car more responsive.
- hole 1 on front camber links - seemed to help me get into the corners better, and make the front end more predictable
- 1mm under front outer camber link -
that's what the fast guys are running
- 1mm under outer tie rod - that's what the fast guys are running
The car still isn't working nearly as smooth and consistent as my old car, but my fastest laps are getting there. My main things to try tomorrow night are fresh tires, a front gear diff with 500k, and shocks and springs.
Regarding past experience with twin-point steering... I'm coming from an Mi4LP. When I first got it, I thought the steering was too frantic, and blamed the single-post steering design, having come from a twin-point HPI Pro3. I jumped on the twin point when it came out, and was happier, I thought it was a bit smoother. Something like a year down the road, I threw the stock single-point steering back on, and I think it feels just fine (SkyPilot can say "I told you so" now), maybe even a bit better. The differences are 1) my driving skills progressed so I like a bit more of an aggressive car, and 2) the chassis setup is a lot better than it was back then.
Overall chassis setup / balance are more important than steering geomtry. And more important still are all the little details of how you apply that setup: tire prep, no chassis / spring / swaybar tweak, good weight balance, no binding in the arms/links/drivetrain, accurately set droop, ride height, alignment, smooth shocks, even steering throw, and how you consistently stay on top of how all those little things degrade with each and every run.
And even more important than all that is consistent tire prep and staying on top of what the track surface is doing. If you think the car has the same setup from one run to the next, but it feels like a completely different (worse) car, then chances are you've missed something. I still have a long way to go.
-Mike
I've had a bit of what you describe on my initial run with the TC6.1. The first change I made was to add 1mm between the front hinge pin blocks and the bulkheads, at the suggestion of the fast TC6.1 guy in my club. It made the car work a lot more predictably. I think that took care of most of the "the car wants to keep turrrning on exit" issue.
Also, double check your front toe. I think in the past I've found that front toe-in can make the car want to keep turning on exit a bit, but I can't remember if had that going on with my initial run.
Everyone told me the kit setup on the 6.1 was easy to drive, but I thought it was pretty craptastic on carpet. Maybe I'm doing it wrong.
Changes I've made from kit setup:
- 1mm on front hinge pin blocks - made the car just work smoother
- 5mm droop front and rear, instead of 6 front / 5 rear - made the car more predictable
- 0.5mm on rear/rear blocks - more corner-exit traction, and more stable in a fast transition
- HPI pink / silver springs - car instantly worked better for me, but I don't think it's the right setup, probably has to do with other issues in my setup. Definitely made the car more responsive.
- hole 1 on front camber links - seemed to help me get into the corners better, and make the front end more predictable
- 1mm under front outer camber link -
that's what the fast guys are running- 1mm under outer tie rod -
that's what the fast guys are runningThe car still isn't working nearly as smooth and consistent as my old car, but my fastest laps are getting there. My main things to try tomorrow night are fresh tires, a front gear diff with 500k, and shocks and springs.
Regarding past experience with twin-point steering... I'm coming from an Mi4LP. When I first got it, I thought the steering was too frantic, and blamed the single-post steering design, having come from a twin-point HPI Pro3. I jumped on the twin point when it came out, and was happier, I thought it was a bit smoother. Something like a year down the road, I threw the stock single-point steering back on, and I think it feels just fine (SkyPilot can say "I told you so" now), maybe even a bit better. The differences are 1) my driving skills progressed so I like a bit more of an aggressive car, and 2) the chassis setup is a lot better than it was back then.
Overall chassis setup / balance are more important than steering geomtry. And more important still are all the little details of how you apply that setup: tire prep, no chassis / spring / swaybar tweak, good weight balance, no binding in the arms/links/drivetrain, accurately set droop, ride height, alignment, smooth shocks, even steering throw, and how you consistently stay on top of how all those little things degrade with each and every run.
And even more important than all that is consistent tire prep and staying on top of what the track surface is doing. If you think the car has the same setup from one run to the next, but it feels like a completely different (worse) car, then chances are you've missed something. I still have a long way to go.
-Mike
i am almost a complete newb to this sport, and i have a tc6 steering questions for you guys. hope somebody can help me out. i read through the entire tc6 forum and couldn't really find a good solution for the issue.
i have been running a tc6 for a couple months now. it's a really good car but i am finding it hard to get used to the steering. i used to drive a tamiya ta-06 which has a dual steering posts design. it gives only a little bit of ackerman producing a linear feel to cornering. while it was a slower car, i was able to drive more consistently. when i switched to the tc6, the single steering post design produces alot more ackerman and suddenly i am lost because it behaves complete different to my old car.
during corner entry the car is very predictable. however, from mid to exit corner, sometimes the car would suddenly gain more steering causing a little bit of 'over turning'. so i thought may be next time i can turn the wheel back to neutral earlier to prevent this. but then this happens inconsistently. it's really hard to predict comparing to the tamiya ta-06.
the result of this is sometimes i would be able to make a fast lap by luck. other times i could be behind that fast lap by up to 1.5 sec. it's not that i hit anything. there were no crash and no traffic. just my poor driving skill and a new car that i am not used to.
my only question is what steering characteristic i should be expecting from the tc6. may be some of you who drove a dual posts steering car before can help out? i really just want to drive this car more consistently. and not be 1+ sec behind a fast lap all the time. i just thought if for example, you hit a 12 sec lap once, that means the car is capable of doing it. it's odd that the average lap time is 13+ sec. am i making sense? or is that normal? considering the track is empty and it's open practice.
i am opened to all kinds of suggestion. may be it's not even the steering system that bothers me. may be it's tweaked somewhere. however, i am almost certain that the car is built without tweak. i followed suggestions from this forum closely. main chassis is flat. all links are free up. slipper spool is tight. car tracks straight on power and on brakes. if anyone has any idea why the car is behaving unpredictably during corners, please let me know. any advice is greatly appreciated.
i have been running a tc6 for a couple months now. it's a really good car but i am finding it hard to get used to the steering. i used to drive a tamiya ta-06 which has a dual steering posts design. it gives only a little bit of ackerman producing a linear feel to cornering. while it was a slower car, i was able to drive more consistently. when i switched to the tc6, the single steering post design produces alot more ackerman and suddenly i am lost because it behaves complete different to my old car.
during corner entry the car is very predictable. however, from mid to exit corner, sometimes the car would suddenly gain more steering causing a little bit of 'over turning'. so i thought may be next time i can turn the wheel back to neutral earlier to prevent this. but then this happens inconsistently. it's really hard to predict comparing to the tamiya ta-06.
the result of this is sometimes i would be able to make a fast lap by luck. other times i could be behind that fast lap by up to 1.5 sec. it's not that i hit anything. there were no crash and no traffic. just my poor driving skill and a new car that i am not used to.
my only question is what steering characteristic i should be expecting from the tc6. may be some of you who drove a dual posts steering car before can help out? i really just want to drive this car more consistently. and not be 1+ sec behind a fast lap all the time. i just thought if for example, you hit a 12 sec lap once, that means the car is capable of doing it. it's odd that the average lap time is 13+ sec. am i making sense? or is that normal? considering the track is empty and it's open practice.
i am opened to all kinds of suggestion. may be it's not even the steering system that bothers me. may be it's tweaked somewhere. however, i am almost certain that the car is built without tweak. i followed suggestions from this forum closely. main chassis is flat. all links are free up. slipper spool is tight. car tracks straight on power and on brakes. if anyone has any idea why the car is behaving unpredictably during corners, please let me know. any advice is greatly appreciated.
02-22-2012, 03:59 PM
#5883
Im getting close to getting my tc6.1 so I need to know what setup to put on it. Ill be running on a outdoor medium grip concrete track, this track used to be a go kart oval that our club turned into an on road course. Because the go kart track is higher in the middle of the track this creates elevation changes which are awesome. Ill be running a Novak VTA 25.5 motor and esc combo to race in the VTA class. I cant find any set ups on the AE site for my surface or the class im running, can you guys help me out?
02-22-2012, 07:47 PM
#5884
I run on a medium/low grip concrete track,
I havnt filled out a full setup sheet yet, But running close to stock setup,
Tyres are Ride 28's
Camber 1.5 all round,
1 deg total toe out at front
stock rear toe
40 wt all round
reflex 14.5 springs all round
havnt played around with roll centers or track as yet
currently running in Blinky 21.5, car is very easy to drive and forgiving, quick enough for the A's constantly.
Also about cars wanting to keep turning on exit, i noticed this when i was starting out as well, i just now turn less coming out of corners and keep the gas in
Beth.
I havnt filled out a full setup sheet yet, But running close to stock setup,
Tyres are Ride 28's
Camber 1.5 all round,
1 deg total toe out at front
stock rear toe
40 wt all round
reflex 14.5 springs all round
havnt played around with roll centers or track as yet
currently running in Blinky 21.5, car is very easy to drive and forgiving, quick enough for the A's constantly.
Also about cars wanting to keep turning on exit, i noticed this when i was starting out as well, i just now turn less coming out of corners and keep the gas in
Beth.
02-22-2012, 08:09 PM
#5885
Gear diff selection
I am looking for advice on selecting gear diff for my 6.
Im sure both should have some good and bad on everyones experience but if you could share your thoughts between Associated TC6 gear diff and SpecR ones would be very helpful.
Thanks!
Im sure both should have some good and bad on everyones experience but if you could share your thoughts between Associated TC6 gear diff and SpecR ones would be very helpful.
Thanks!
02-22-2012, 08:13 PM
#5886
Tech Adept
Good luck keven, wish you all the best in TITC 2012....
02-22-2012, 08:59 PM
#5887
associated Gear diff hands down.. I tried yokomo and Spec R they both leak specially if you run Mod... I have a associated gear for couple months now I haven't had any issue with it leaking and it's consistent I'm using it front and back running MOD with 4.5T motor..
02-22-2012, 09:17 PM
#5888
Thanks for your advice!
02-22-2012, 10:56 PM
#5889
Hey guys, I was going to try out Rick Hohwart's 11/01/2011 setup:
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...ub_11-2011.pdf
I ran into a problem where the blades bottom out in the front diff outdrives. I have no idea if this was a problem in my previous setup and I just didn't notice until now, but is there some trick to this particular setup or have I screwed something up? I understand some people are running different universals, is that the difference?
Thanks!
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...ub_11-2011.pdf
I ran into a problem where the blades bottom out in the front diff outdrives. I have no idea if this was a problem in my previous setup and I just didn't notice until now, but is there some trick to this particular setup or have I screwed something up? I understand some people are running different universals, is that the difference?
Thanks!
02-22-2012, 11:36 PM
#5890
Are you sure, you installed the arm mount shims? I have no such problems on my car even without shims...
02-23-2012, 12:48 AM
#5892
Tech Adept
02-23-2012, 04:07 AM
#5893
I run on a medium/low grip concrete track,
I havnt filled out a full setup sheet yet, But running close to stock setup,
Tyres are Ride 28's
Camber 1.5 all round,
1 deg total toe out at front
stock rear toe
40 wt all round
reflex 14.5 springs all round
havnt played around with roll centers or track as yet
currently running in Blinky 21.5, car is very easy to drive and forgiving, quick enough for the A's constantly.
Also about cars wanting to keep turning on exit, i noticed this when i was starting out as well, i just now turn less coming out of corners and keep the gas in
Beth.
I havnt filled out a full setup sheet yet, But running close to stock setup,
Tyres are Ride 28's
Camber 1.5 all round,
1 deg total toe out at front
stock rear toe
40 wt all round
reflex 14.5 springs all round
havnt played around with roll centers or track as yet
currently running in Blinky 21.5, car is very easy to drive and forgiving, quick enough for the A's constantly.
Also about cars wanting to keep turning on exit, i noticed this when i was starting out as well, i just now turn less coming out of corners and keep the gas in
Beth.
02-23-2012, 07:41 AM
#5895
