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-   -   Team Associated TC6 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/414655-team-associated-tc6-thread.html)

geeunit1014 10-01-2011 08:46 PM


Originally Posted by Odin544 (Post 9729017)
Any idea who makes them or where I can get some? I dont see anything under the AE parts.

Tamiya-http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=897&id=7158 This set is 4 0.5mm shims and 4 1mm shims

scoyle 10-02-2011 04:02 AM

I thought I would post about my move to the TC6... I read every post here before starting my build and I have to say that I wondered, based on the comments on here, what would be wrong with each bag I opened during the build... I am glad to say that I got a perfect kit and with some words of wisdom from our local Team Associated driver I built a kit that was tweak free.

I have been driving a TCX which is a really amazing car and was great but I just wanted something different so I moved to the TC6. I was a bit worried running the TC6 for the first time having run the TC5 before and the amount of steering/grip that it could produce but absolutely no worries at all. The car was up to the TCX with minimal changes and I really enjoyed driving it - the track was carpet, good grip, but very tight.

All in all the TC6 is a great car out of the box was very good from the first pull of the throttle. The only thing that I think I would like to see in the box are some alloy shims for the spacing of arms etc. and also some 35mm turnbuckles as you shouldn't really have to buy different turnbuckles to change the camber links on a car.

Really looking forward to the next round of our championship and seeing how good the TC6 is now that I have my first run under my belt.

A big thumbs up to Associated for a great car at a great price. :nod::nod:

Kevin Marcy 10-02-2011 06:06 AM

I just built mine, and didn't have any issues either. The only thing I thought was missing were 2 of the M3x14 screws for attaching the suspension. I later realized that they swapped 2 of them for M3x16 screws for the rear of the car, so really just a documentation issue.

goin2drt 10-02-2011 07:08 AM

Does anyone make the funny looking shims for arm spacing in aluminum? I've tried regular shims but they don't work as the blocks tend to bend in.

bshookup 10-02-2011 07:27 AM


Originally Posted by goin2drt (Post 9729942)
Does anyone make the funny looking shims for arm spacing in aluminum? I've tried regular shims but they don't work as the blocks tend to bend in.

I've also seen blocks bend in while using smaller aluminum shims. The shim of choice seems to be the Team Associated 12R5 bulkhead shims, #4617. They are larger in diameter and seem to work well

If you really want to lock down your hinge pins, try these: http://www.ppdbillet.com/dial-a-grip.htm

goin2drt 10-02-2011 08:20 AM


Originally Posted by bshookup (Post 9729986)
I've also seen blocks bend in while using smaller aluminum shims. The shim of choice seems to be the Team Associated 12R5 bulkhead shims, #4617. They are larger in diameter and seem to work well

If you really want to lock down your hinge pins, try these: http://www.ppdbillet.com/dial-a-grip.htm

I love those things. I had those and unfortunately they are too indistructable. I had a spin out and hit the rear end hard and they do not absorb any impact and instead of the little plastic pieces breaking, it bent bulkheads. I am going back to the stock pieces until I become a better driver. :lol:

Verndog 10-02-2011 11:17 AM


Originally Posted by goin2drt (Post 9730148)
I love those things. I had those and unfortunately they are too indistructable. I had a spin out and hit the rear end hard and they do not absorb any impact and instead of the little plastic pieces breaking, it bent bulkheads. I am going back to the stock pieces until I become a better driver. :lol:

If you hit rear end first then you likely took a direct shot to the bulkheads causing the bending (they are the furthest protruding part out rear, hence rear bumpers being added). We have seen no increase in reports of this issue to date, and before any shock to bulkheads could potentially happen there is rubber tire, plastic C hub, plastic steering knuckle, plastic arm, all in line for shock absorption (any or several of these would break first if wheel / arm collision was main cause). Also, there have been reports of bent bulkheads with the stock plastic blocks, so don't let someone talk you into not being reasonable on the cause of this. ;)

olly986 10-02-2011 11:19 AM

Well just back from my racing day where I finished 4th even if I had the 3rd place nearly garanteed, but unfortunately, the cleaning putty in my front diff went too soft and the car was extremelly tail happy all of the sudden, extreme heat here today and the diff kept changing characteristics, so I guess, putty will be back for cooler temps and heavy oil will replace it when it is hot.

Just for you to know!

scoyle 10-02-2011 11:33 AM


Originally Posted by olly986 (Post 9730625)
Well just back from my racing day where I finished 4th even if I had the 3rd place nearly garanteed, but unfortunately, the cleaning putty in my front diff went too soft and the car was extremelly tail happy all of the sudden, extreme heat here today and the diff kept changing characteristics, so I guess, putty will be back for cooler temps and heavy oil will replace it when it is hot.

Just for you to know!

What putty are you using - I used Serpent cleaning putty in my TCX but in my TC6 (yes I have joined Alan!) I am using Fastrax which seems to be harder. What wt of oil are you planning to use?

Stephen

olly986 10-02-2011 11:43 AM

Hi

Was talking to Alan last week, good choice with the AE and you have a pro at hand to help !!

Can't remember the make but I think it was Serpent, do not have the box anymore, but it got really hot today and this was the first time I used that setup "A la Rick Howard", will try 100000 oil, this is what I have in tool box, just worried it might be too much.

Next and last run in 2 weeks

scoyle 10-02-2011 11:58 AM


Originally Posted by olly986 (Post 9730677)
Hi

Was talking to Alan last week, good choice with the AE and you have a pro at hand to help !!

Can't remember the make but I think it was Serpent, do not have the box anymore, but it got really hot today and this was the first time I used that setup "A la Rick Howard", will try 100000 oil, this is what I have in tool box, just worried it might be too much.

Next and last run in 2 weeks

Agree Al is a top man, my main reason for going Associated. Serpent is definitely effected by heat - I noticed as the 5 minute run went on I was getting more steering. The Fastrax stuff is definitely worth a try - I know Al has used it in mod and it definitely is less prone to heat.

olly986 10-02-2011 12:13 PM


Originally Posted by scoyle (Post 9730711)
Agree Al is a top man, my main reason for going Associated. Serpent is definitely effected by heat - I noticed as the 5 minute run went on I was getting more steering. The Fastrax stuff is definitely worth a try - I know Al has used it in mod and it definitely is less prone to heat.

will give it a go, where do you get yours from? are you buying from the border?

RaceAce701 10-02-2011 12:30 PM

quick and easy question

can someone give me the diamiter on the outdrive side cvd axle pin

LOSI123 10-02-2011 04:53 PM

Does any one know if the wheel bearings 6x10x3mm have smaller balls in them than most 5x10x4mm in other cars wheel hubs

scoyle 10-03-2011 12:18 AM


Originally Posted by olly986 (Post 9730755)
will give it a go, where do you get yours from? are you buying from the border?

Got mine from MK Racing - http://www.m-k-racing.com/


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