You gonna try the tc6 now ?

Nope. :)

Because the TC6 is newer. They are on the way and should be released soon...

Car maker like schumacher do not make gear one....but AE will make and release soon...
If spec-R make for AE and AE also have gear one. Which one do you like?

The one that takes the least amount of voodoo...my guess, the AE one. :nod:
Ask me where my Spec-R ECS drive shafts are after I had to rebuild them correctly with Xray pins....and they still build them this way and ship with bent soft pins!! :mad:

If my real job slows down anymore I just may build ECS driveshafts for the TC6...done right! :tire:

can i use the AE gear diff in TC5R?

With enough shims to fit the wider location of the bulkheads it will work.


Yesterday I rebuild the car, cleaned everything, looked after the litemodz cvs, and so on. Again the Dial-a-grip left a good impression by helping a lot handling the disassembling. The car can be easily seperated without having a lot small parts fall apart. I like!

http://img815.imageshack.us/img815/121/dsc00047lj.jpg

Schumacher helped spec-r make that diff, I'm pretty sure. It uses Schumacher parts.

Read this:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ml#post8399601

:-)

Schumacher does make a diff for the Mi3/Mi4

hi verndog,

i have just bought your dial a grips and had them mounted onto the car as the instruction.."please correct me if im wrong".. they say set screw to be flush with the top of the dial a grip to get AE 0 block but why dose my down stops change by a 1 mm or so from the Ae 0 block to your dial a grip and it difference from Lfront,Rfront,Lrear,Rrear of the car when all set screw are flush with the top of the dial a grip to me by using the top set screw its very inaccurate i have no chassis tweak,no bent screws, shocks are off when testing the down stops so what i can see is which blocks are lying to me the AE blocks or the dial a grips all i know is when using the dial a grips my down stop set screws are all over the place but going back to the Ae blocks its all even agin:confused:

Hello Clint. A few things to check. First while tightening the main block screw be certain you are pushing down from the top with 1.5mm driver to be certain the block is locating against main screw, check after tightening there is tension on the top set screw. 2nd to be certain you are getting the correct height a feeler gage can be used (great tool for dialing in dive and squat angles with your new blocks) between block and chassis per instruction page, using this method assures they are perfect (.100 or 2.5mm feeler gage). 3rd it is quite possible you set everything (droop and height to AE 0 blocks that are tweaked from impact, the dial-a-grips are all 100% checked and matched in sets within +/-.0025" (.06mm), so they are very precise!

Lastly..on rears, using the stock plastic rear toe shims can influence the block location and make them difficult to adjust, as they take form from toe angles, so hard washer shims is recommended there (2nd to last note on instruction sheet), (5) 3mm stainless washers x.020 thick = 3 deg. rear toe.

One last check if you dont have feeler gages to check or dont want to purchase. Mount the arm with both blocks snug then back off 1/8 turn to let adjust, then screw the top locator set screw all the way down till you bottom out at end of travel, now back up EXACTLY 1 1/2 turns and you are back to the center of slot and exactly at correct 0 location.

You are correct that visual to set screw at top is just a quick aid, and set screw length can vary a little, but surprisingly their pretty close if you use an eye loop or magnifier to see real well.

Hope that helps.
Kevin

hi the end result is nice but its just seem a little hard when trying to eye in the set screw i guess ill get a feeler gauge because the std blocks moving will drive me nuts::nod:

More TC6 parts and Spec R gear diff are in stock.

Click Here to check out the new arrivals.

Click Here to see the parts store

Thanks.

Your links aren't working???? :cry: