Jeff what is your shock settings? Position on tower, piston, oil, springs

I just got my diffs yesterday. I'm going to build them tonight so, I'll let you know. My understanding is the drop right in without the thin shims on the outdrives, and the out rives need to be drilled out with a 6mm drill bit so the dog bones fit.

They'll drop in. You will notice however that the shock tower mounts won't go back over easily though. It's best if you dremel about 0.5mm off each side of the diff casing where the bearing pushes on to get them closer to the centre.

And you're right about drilling the outdrives.

It's best to do all the work on the long side of the diff regarding removal of material for the bearing seat as the diff mounts too close to left rear bulkhead in it's standard position, this will effectively line up the belt pulleys, just watch for the d'shafts bottoming out on suspension compression especially at high neg camber values, you will also need to slim down the associated blades for a free fit in diff half after making clearance for d'shaft ball, the associated blade extends past the ball less than the included yoke blade and gives better clearance for actuation without bottoming out.

thanks guys. ok yea let me know if is hart to do. and maybe you can post and pic to see what there are talking about thanks

I got the diffs in last night. The 6mm drill bit was too small. I had to use a 1/4 inch (about 6.3mm) drill bit. I also had to sand the blades to make them a little thinner.

The diffs did fit, but they were a little tight. A little sanding on on the diff hosing, where the bearing go fixed that.

what oil are you going to use.

I'm starting out with 100,000 in font and 1,000 in the rear.

you going to run a gear diff in the front to

Yes.

On my Tamyia car I was running 500,000 front 60wt shock oil in the rear. It was a killer set-up

I've got some heavier diff fluid coming. I'll probably end up at 500k. The 1k feels thicker that I thought it would be. I imagine I will go lighter. I'm thinking 500 in the rear which is like the new Associated 40wt.

I felt no handling or time difference with gear diff with 100.000cst oil in front in comparison to the slipper spool when using 17,5t unboosted electronics.

what if I am running mod class will it work better and we'll make a difference

From our experience last weekend at the February freeze Race in Dallas, we tested the Gear diff up front with a boosted 17.5 and 300,000 cst on high grip carpet, the car lacked steering vs the slipper spool set-up. We settled for running the slipper spool. The gear diff will probably require some more aggressive adjustments to get the on power traction the spool gives.

All in all it was a great showing at the race for me and my buddies running the TC6. We finished 2nd (David Joor) 3rd (myself) and 4th (Ron Atomic) with Mike Dumas taking the win. Considering this was our first race out with it, and the fact that our 3 TC6's were all within 5 seconds of Mike's qualifying time it is safe to say the cars ran awesome! In the main, David finished about 6 seconds off of Mike and I managed to stay on the lead lap 2 seconds behind Dave, with a TC that had a severe understeer going into tight corners.