LloydLoar

iTrader: (20)

A WC (2nd place) version?

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

Lol...Ok, ok, I was stretching it a little. Worlds Edition - R12CWE

d.k.vmatt

Well Thursday night I finally got the 1/12 out again and did about 2 hours of practice at the track and straight into a race night, Only my second time driving the car.

With a fair bit of help from a couple of guys I got it going around the rack in a reasonably controlled fashion well almost.

In the qualifiers I was doing okay, got faster in the second one. But come the finals it was starting to go down hill, I had to do a lot of warm up laps to get the rear end hot enough to be anywhere usable, second and third final it was just out of control and had to pull it off to avoid becoming a problem for the others on the track.


Now for the questions, I was running medium fronts and soft rears, I ended up coning the fronts by about 1.5 mm difference inner to outer, im guessing this is just due to too much camber.

The last 2 races I was struggling for rear grip, is the easy fix to hunt down some softer tyres?

Also does anyone have a sort of procedure they do on setting up one of these cars?

And how should the diff be?

303slowdown

iTrader: (24)

What brand tires were you running? In my experience softer rear tires give less side bite ( more rotation) but more forward grip. For instance if you're running magenta/pinks going to magenta/magenta should lock the rear in or running blue/green going to blue/blue should lock the rear in. Harder fronts can also calm a car down so lilac/magenta or dbl blue/blue, depending on where in the corner the car is loosing grip.

d.k.vmatt

Im running the yokomo CRT pre-assembled ones

303slowdown

iTrader: (24)

I would try meduim/medium or even hard/medium, I bet it would help with your issue.

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

I would start at running - 1.0 camber on the front.

What is your toe out?
What is your front hingepin position? Bottom/Middle/Top?

Also, your tires seem to be fine, but what are your saucing times for the front and rear?

IgorR

Hello,

Do you know the name of the R12 designer at Yokomo?

Thanks

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

Yes, I do. But if you're looking to communicate with him, sadly, he doesn't speak a lick of English.

IgorR

I'm Just looking to know who he is.
By the way since Naoto left Yokomo who is official driver for the R12?

d.k.vmatt

Toe out is about 1mm, hinge pin position is what ever the manual says.

No sausing at all, isn't allowed at our track right now but we are looking at odourless formulas, I thing the new lrp carpet grip 3 is the one iv heard them talking about.

The car was fine early on but just got worse as the night went, do you think this is due to tyre wear or something else?

Iv got setup gear coming to try and set this car up properly.

When using balance pins do you do the rear pod on its own or just a total car on its own?

svndayNZ

iTrader: (20)

I've been running my 12th scale in 10.5 at my local track and recently felt confident enough to step up to a 3.5 boosted. We race indoors and naturally the things fly.

I bought my 3.1 off a mate because they're so hard to find in retail, he's a bit of a nerd when it comes to setups of 12th scale. (I'm typically a touring car guy)
I feel I've got tires sorted from running various brands I think I finally know what does and doesn't work at my local.

Some advice needed on setups if anyone has some answers.
1. What is the best way to check toe without forking out for a setup system
2. My car seems to push heavily and be a little dull on steering mid to exit.
3. Ride out adjusters in the front, does anyone run shims above the springs?

Thanks gurus

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

Naoya Kitagawa

There are many drivers who's skills are close to Naoto's.

I would say this young kid - 江袋 兎々. He's fast, but not as fast as Naoto. But, he has a lot of years ahead of him and Naoya will probably be his mechanic in the coming years...

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

No tire sauce? What? That's insane! Most places in Japan use TC-2 + for traction compound. Little to no smell and does the job.

I usually disconnect the rear pod as a whole and just balance the main plate only. Then once the main plate is balanced, I reconnect the rear pod. There's much debate on whether or not to balance the rear pod, but most people don't. I use to, but now I figure it's not worth it.

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

You're currently running the lower arm pin in the upper position, so this will give the front end a low roll center and a lot of camber gain in the corners. This can make the car twitchy and difficult to drive. The aforementioned comment is all dependent on the surface your racing on.

I would look at moving the lower pin to the middle hole with 0 mm upper blocks. This will raise your roll center and reduce the amount of camber gain in the corners, and this should smooth out the front end. However, as I said, this is all dependent on the surface your racing on. Then if you like, try and use a 0.5 mm upper block as this will raise the roll center slightly and reduce camber gain but at smaller increments. Larger changes in roll center and camber gain occurs at the lower arm pin location, whereas the upper blocks are slightly less and are generally used for fine tuning.

Front toe out is good - A setup station is important to have IMO. Every little detail counts.

What is you're full setup?

Once we know that we can help you out further.