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Old 03-27-2011, 10:20 PM   #106
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A buddy of mine that doesn't get on RCTech has a T3R we've been trying to get dialed in. Running in an RCGT type class (21.5 boosted rubber tire on carpet) and the car is really stuck.... maybe too much. The chassis is flexing so much the car diffs out coming out of tight corners. Anyone else have this issue with the car? Do you think the 306515-K (top deck mounts) would solve most of the flexing issue?
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Old 03-27-2011, 10:58 PM   #107
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A buddy of mine that doesn't get on RCTech has a T3R we've been trying to get dialed in. Running in an RCGT type class (21.5 boosted rubber tire on carpet) and the car is really stuck.... maybe too much. The chassis is flexing so much the car diffs out coming out of tight corners. Anyone else have this issue with the car? Do you think the 306515-K (top deck mounts) would solve most of the flexing issue?
Yeah, buy 2 pairs and mount them all. My chassis would tweak so much the steering post would pop out. The top deck mounts fixed that problem instantly.

Your car probably is "too stuck"- I talked with one of the top VTA/17.5 drivers at my track, He freed up the car by running 6* caster blocks, and 1* hubs with no spacing on the bulkheads. He also uses the thin or medium sway bar on the rear only.
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Old 03-28-2011, 09:49 AM   #108
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Yeah, buy 2 pairs and mount them all. My chassis would tweak so much the steering post would pop out. The top deck mounts fixed that problem instantly.

Your car probably is "too stuck"- I talked with one of the top VTA/17.5 drivers at my track, He freed up the car by running 6* caster blocks, and 1* hubs with no spacing on the bulkheads. He also uses the thin or medium sway bar on the rear only.
Thanks
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Old 11-17-2011, 08:52 PM   #109
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I've been trying to get hold of a new T3R as an entry to TC and on-road but apparently no-one in Hong Kong holds it. For extra HK$1000 (~US$128) one can get the T3 2012. Should I just go straight in with the T3 at this price difference, given the hop-ups one will need for the T3R (turnbuckles, outdrives, carbon plates)?

We do make the Sakura S Zero at an almost laughable price but I'm pretty much decided between either T3 and TCX, leaning towards the T3 with what appears better built with more available spare/option parts.

What servo are you guys using with the T3/R? Savox 1258TG ok?

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Old 11-18-2011, 03:55 PM   #110
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For extra HK$1000 (~US$128) one can get the T3 2012.

We do make the Sakura S Zero at an almost laughable price...
Get the 2012 !!!!! for that extra $128
It has gear diffs, carbon chassis etc etc etc

I have a Sakura S & T3R. No comparison in quality (as expected)
Too much plastic in the Sak, definitely needs some basic basic upgrades.
Sak.S does have a much better FPR chassis plate though.Thicker & much less flexi.

I cant even use my Sak out of the box, had to buy upgrades. For the same total cost I could have got a used Xray 2008 or TC5.
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Old 11-18-2011, 08:37 PM   #111
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I decided to get my feet wet with a t3r to get back into rc after a long layoff....recently upgraded to the t311 and the difference is very noticeable....if you can get a t312 for a bit more, I would totally do that. Not knocking the t3r but, the t312 is the latest and greatest while the t3r is an entry level version of 3 years ago's latest and greatest
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Old 11-18-2011, 08:38 PM   #112
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does anyone have any of these for sale? also if i bought this kit is there anything i would need with it to make it work good? thanks.
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Old 11-19-2011, 01:01 AM   #113
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does anyone have any of these for sale? also if i bought this kit is there anything i would need with it to make it work good? thanks.
Turnbuckles. thats all you need. (seriously)
perhaps a metal or gear diff if you run a 5T motor
Im guessing the chassis will be too flexy for powerfull motors ??

If your gonna start spend $$$$$ on upgrades, sort of makes it a poor choice, just get a 2011/2012 .
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Old 11-19-2011, 06:19 AM   #114
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Thanks I guess I'll just dive right into the deep end Was planning to ease myself in, and help me understand and appreciate the upgrades in the TC hobby. Any recommended servos?

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Old 11-19-2011, 09:41 PM   #115
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Any recommended servos?

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BlueBird servos are a bit hit & miss. Ive had a really good one(still using it) & a really bad one (wandered,wouldnt center properly)
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Old 01-03-2012, 10:18 PM   #116
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Anyone have a good starting gear ratio for a 21.5 running on a tight smallish carpet track? Non boosted vta ish class. Thanks just looking for a starter to get me in the ball park. Recently upgraded from a t2r that was great.

Also anyone noticed the bowing in the top deck when assembled? The rear where the top deck sits on top of the bearings seems to be the culprit. I shimmed up the upper deck and it's straighter...thanks
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Old 01-04-2012, 12:18 PM   #117
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I shimmed up the upper deck and it's straighter...thanks
Just make sure you run a chassis standoff in the spot right behind the steering post. Otherwise you'll lose the steering assembly in a hard hit or a corner that forces the chassis to flex.
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Old 01-06-2012, 03:21 PM   #118
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Thanks for the heads up
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Old 01-06-2012, 04:36 PM   #119
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Turnbuckles. thats all you need. (seriously)
perhaps a metal or gear diff if you run a 5T motor
Im guessing the chassis will be too flexy for powerfull motors ??

If your gonna start spend $$$$$ on upgrades, sort of makes it a poor choice, just get a 2011/2012 .
actually I run my T3r in spec 17.5 tc and usually don't do bad with it. yes get the metal ball diff if you don't want to rebuild the plastic one every weekend. getting the spring steel front axles 52mm are a good choice for the first upgrade. and yes get the stand off for the middle behind the steering. I got the 50mm alum axles in the back but that's not necessary I haven't even put the adjustable tie rods as I set it and have never changed it. now I have a 2011 that I have raced and a 2012 that I'm putting together but the T3r is good enough for club racing.
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Old 02-20-2012, 06:11 PM   #120
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actually I run my T3r in spec 17.5 tc and usually don't do bad with it. yes get the metal ball diff if you don't want to rebuild the plastic one every weekend. getting the spring steel front axles 52mm are a good choice for the first upgrade. and yes get the stand off for the middle behind the steering. I got the 50mm alum axles in the back but that's not necessary I haven't even put the adjustable tie rods as I set it and have never changed it. now I have a 2011 that I have raced and a 2012 that I'm putting together but the T3r is good enough for club racing.
Can you post your set up on your t3r?
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