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Old 06-06-2010, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by STLNLST
I wish there was one for the Hotbodies car
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Old 06-06-2010, 09:03 PM
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Can somebody post a link to where i can buy the gear diff for a T3. Thanks
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Old 06-06-2010, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Potoczak
Can somebody post a link to where i can buy the gear diff for a T3. Thanks
egr mart.
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Old 06-06-2010, 09:17 PM
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http://cgi.ebay.com/XRAY-T3-38T-Gear...item415020eaec
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Old 06-06-2010, 09:26 PM
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RCmarket just put them up today also, and cheaper than egr mart.

Bad news, i had 2 failures over the weekend, the metal shim being shoved into the o ring hole, in one case gears skipping under load, and the second case, the pin stripping out its locating hole, burning up a circular recess in the back of the gear.

I attempted to fix it with a marginally thicker shim, but then the diff action became very notchy.

I wish xray or someone would come up with a true factory version.
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Old 06-06-2010, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Besercoe
RCmarket just put them up today also, and cheaper than egr mart.

Bad news, i had 2 failures over the weekend, the metal shim being shoved into the o ring hole, in one case gears skipping under load, and the second case, the pin stripping out its locating hole, burning up a circular recess in the back of the gear.

I attempted to fix it with a marginally thicker shim, but then the diff action became very notchy.

I wish xray or someone would come up with a true factory version.
Hey Brad

Throw an extra gasket in there and the diff should go back to feeling normal. I did it when i placed bigger shims in the diff.

I've since had another meeting's running on it in mod and no noticeable wear.

Regards
Tim
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Old 06-07-2010, 12:23 AM
  #67  
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Ive had 1 day of practice (7 runs) and a full race day running 4.0 MOD and no issues.
I did sand the gears a fair bit and I only run about half full of oil (500 much more). Our track is medium to low grip ashfelt and for mod, you may need to put in more throttle expo as the wheelspin comes on strong.
I have found 1 rate softer springs works better on the rear but overall I wont go back to a ball diff because once you adapt your driving a little it is more consistent to race with.
Perfect example was one guy that was racing with me pulled off halfway through the heat and I asked why and he said his diff backed off on him
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Old 06-07-2010, 01:22 AM
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Originally Posted by ark
Perfect example was one guy that was racing with me pulled off halfway through the heat and I asked why and he said his diff backed off on him
yep
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Old 06-07-2010, 01:56 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by bodymot
Just my thoughts on Spec-R diff, so far so good in my 09 X-Ray running 13.5 on carpet. Sanded back of bevel gears just to take moulding marks off so ran smooth, Green slime on main out put drives O-rings so helps stop leakage and on gasket to help seal ( didn’t put two gaskets on because could make satellite gears run with too much play against Bevel gears and strip). Having built real car diff’s couldn’t under stand why you would want to over fill diff, a normal car diff with a breather is only filled half way which I did with Spec-R diff. It’s sealed so any over fill will just push out of gasket or out drives when it warms up. You need air space in side so it can expand. It won’t run dry because diff gears rotate and pick up oil. I used much more 250 oil and only filled just over half way so there was air space for expansion when run. So far the only fault I can see is the washer No 9 which runs behind No 4 Bevel Gear, its really thin (0.1) and 9mm wide, could distort. Might use a thicker and wider one, Tamiya wheel spacer 0.5 x 11.5 wide would fit and make better seal on O-ring seal. If you do, don’t just file back of No 4 Bevel gears because No 8 pin will pull out drives in so you need to file out side of the case 1 & 2 were the out drives go in to case so it can run free, (don’t over do it).
It’s about 9/11 grams heavier with oil.
Is it faster? I think that’s down to how you like to drive and if you like a non slip diff. for me just a club racer, its really smooth, no slip, (so far) one less thing to worry about and its cheaper than a new X-Ray diff in the UK !
Hope this helps
Just order another one for my T3 running 10.5
filling the diff keeps the diff action consistant. if not full the oil gets airated and thins as well as heats up more.
Also different viscosity oils change the diff action/slip characteristics unlike a real cars diff that uses the oil for mainly lubrication.
generally the more traction there is you can go a bit thicker on the oil.
However on a low traction dusty tracks it can be a handfull and a ball diff feels better.
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Old 06-07-2010, 05:29 AM
  #70  
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It seems the issue with the washer deforming is because it has no support on the o-ring. I am going to add a tamiya .1 or .2 4mm shim between the washer and the o-ring on both diff halves. Hopefully that should fix the issue.
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Old 06-07-2010, 08:37 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by razzor
filling the diff keeps the diff action consistant. if not full the oil gets airated and thins as well as heats up more.
Also different viscosity oils change the diff action/slip characteristics unlike a real cars diff that uses the oil for mainly lubrication.
generally the more traction there is you can go a bit thicker on the oil.
However on a low traction dusty tracks it can be a handfull and a ball diff feels better.
On low traction you'll probably be better off with the gear diff if you can get the handling balance you want with the setup. The gear diff will let you put more power down as long as you don't lift the inside tire. I have a feeling gear diffs will be an area of focus for the TC companies in the next year or so, as the ball diffs are less and less able to handle brushless motor torque.
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Old 06-07-2010, 06:25 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by Superkarter
Hey Brad

Throw an extra gasket in there and the diff should go back to feeling normal. I did it when i placed bigger shims in the diff.

I've since had another meeting's running on it in mod and no noticeable wear.

Regards
Tim
+1...I doubled up the shims in the diff after reading the posts on here, and then wound up with 2 gaskets to return proper diff action.
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Old 06-08-2010, 03:24 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by Superkarter
Hey Brad

Throw an extra gasket in there and the diff should go back to feeling normal. I did it when i placed bigger shims in the diff.

I've since had another meeting's running on it in mod and no noticeable wear.

Regards
Tim
Does the set include an extra (spare) gasket?
Maybe I overlooked it, but what size shims did you use? I'm going to use this set for modified, so fingers crossed...
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Old 06-08-2010, 04:20 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by Govert
Does the set include an extra (spare) gasket?
Maybe I overlooked it, but what size shims did you use? I'm going to use this set for modified, so fingers crossed...
No, you have to buy the spare gasket set.

Currently used 2 Tamiya 0.5mm wheel spacers, one at each end. You will need to sand the housing down slightly to use these spacers.

Regards
Tim
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Old 06-08-2010, 05:46 AM
  #75  
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When you order the extra seal package for a couple bucks, it comes with 5 or 6 of the paper seals that go between the diff halves. The spare gear set come with extra o-rings.
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