2LikesLosi XXX-S
03-30-2003, 12:25 PM
#5776
Tech Adept
Titanium Screws
You guys think I should get some titanium screws for my xxx-s? Or should I get aluminum ones? Where's the best place to get them?
03-30-2003, 01:07 PM
#5778
Tech Apprentice
Originally posted by xxxkat
The radio system is alot better than what you get with the associated,You also over looked the shocks,the Losi comes with aluminum body ones,the associated has plastic,the car does work right out of the box,One more thing to remember is you get what you pay for.Their are only a few things I would upgrade on the car.I would get a better servo(JR 590-$39)Ti.turnbuckles and a set of better tires,as far as threaded shocks go they dont work any better than what comes on the car,they just make setting the tweak easier.The RTR is just about the same car as the original xxxs,and RC car action rated it #1..yes even over the FT TC-3.
Their should be no question in your mind on what car to get..
The radio system is alot better than what you get with the associated,You also over looked the shocks,the Losi comes with aluminum body ones,the associated has plastic,the car does work right out of the box,One more thing to remember is you get what you pay for.Their are only a few things I would upgrade on the car.I would get a better servo(JR 590-$39)Ti.turnbuckles and a set of better tires,as far as threaded shocks go they dont work any better than what comes on the car,they just make setting the tweak easier.The RTR is just about the same car as the original xxxs,and RC car action rated it #1..yes even over the FT TC-3.
Their should be no question in your mind on what car to get..
i thought the servo that came with it was a "high torque" servo?
03-30-2003, 01:59 PM
#5779
Tech Adept
xxxkat
Hey your on rcracing also...cool. I was looking at www.speedtechrc.com on the titanium screws but they had nothing of the sort. Where else would you get titanium screws? Thanks
03-30-2003, 02:07 PM
#5780
Re: xxxkat
Originally posted by M Ignacio
Hey your on rcracing also...cool. I was looking at www.speedtechrc.com on the titanium screws but they had nothing of the sort. Where else would you get titanium screws? Thanks
Hey your on rcracing also...cool. I was looking at www.speedtechrc.com on the titanium screws but they had nothing of the sort. Where else would you get titanium screws? Thanks
03-30-2003, 05:06 PM
#5781
Tech Apprentice
how long will brushes last on the supplied rtr 19t motor, before i have to change them?
03-30-2003, 08:26 PM
#5782
I bought my ti screw kit at the hobby shop where I race at,It's the same brand as the ti ballstud kit that speed tech sells,so I thought(allways gets me in trouble)they should carry them 
On to 123 the stock servo on the RTR is a JR270,I think it has around 40 to 50 oz-in of torque,the JR590 has 85oz-in of torque,I ran a JR system for awhile and I thought the 270 was not quite up to what I wanted in a servo.On brushes,alot of people have different ideas on how often to change them,If you have a com lathe or know someone who does(and can afford the brushes)I would change them every race day or at least every other race day,I know that sounds extreme but if you want the motor to last thats what you need to do.Years ago(when I was fast and sponsored 
) I would change brushes every 3 runs,but I was given free brushes so I could do that.Now its 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 race days..if I can afford the brushes & racing.
On to 123 the stock servo on the RTR is a JR270,I think it has around 40 to 50 oz-in of torque,the JR590 has 85oz-in of torque,I ran a JR system for awhile and I thought the 270 was not quite up to what I wanted in a servo.On brushes,alot of people have different ideas on how often to change them,If you have a com lathe or know someone who does(and can afford the brushes)I would change them every race day or at least every other race day,I know that sounds extreme but if you want the motor to last thats what you need to do.Years ago(when I was fast and sponsored ) I would change brushes every 3 runs,but I was given free brushes so I could do that.Now its 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 race days..if I can afford the brushes & racing.
no other dammage. Thats why I was looking for a aluminum outdrive.
04-01-2003, 09:10 PM
#5785
Opinion on the Extra-Rigid Bumper set
After doing some pretty good damage to my front end last week, I’m looking at getting a new front bumper and brace for my car. What are your opinions on the Extra-Rigid Bumper Set #4237 & Upper Bumper/Body Mount Brace #4238?
I was using the Bud’s XXX-S front bumper #6626 and the Losi front bumper brace #4245.
Should I stick with the Bud’s brace or upgrade to the extra rigid bumper
Thanks for any input sent my way.
Team R
After doing some pretty good damage to my front end last week, I’m looking at getting a new front bumper and brace for my car. What are your opinions on the Extra-Rigid Bumper Set #4237 & Upper Bumper/Body Mount Brace #4238?
I was using the Bud’s XXX-S front bumper #6626 and the Losi front bumper brace #4245.
Should I stick with the Bud’s brace or upgrade to the extra rigid bumper
Thanks for any input sent my way.
Team R
04-02-2003, 06:51 AM
#5786
Tech Rookie
The extra rigid bumpers only have one benefit -- they make the droop adjustment more consistent. I had the bud's set up and broke the bud bumper in a few races. I then got the rigid bumper with the newer brace and promptly broke the bumper. I now have the old bumper (the softer one) with the new brace and it won't brake but now I've broken two a-arms. Pick your poison, all will break, it's only a question of how. Maybe the trinity bumper is better.
And I only run stock! Can't imagine what happens with a fast mod in your car.
And I only run stock! Can't imagine what happens with a fast mod in your car.
04-02-2003, 09:01 AM
#5787
Hello all -
I am at a complete loss here for a setup... We now have a high traction asphalt track... it is relatively tight, rubber tires... Track size is approx 115x50. In the past the track had mediocre traction at best...
Here's my current setup -
Front -
Shocks - BLue spring, 40wt, 56 piston - mounted in 2 hole
0 degree kick up, 2 degree caster blocks
Camber link... good question
0 toe
-1 camber
Rear -
Shock - Blue spring, 40wt , 55 piston - mounted in 2/outside
0 degree antisquat
Camber link - 1B
Offset 0 degree rear hubs
-1 camber
Battery forward
ackerman forward (I think - at least this was the way I ran it last)
Orion 8x2 - geared 26/128
Losi Alfa
Sorex 32's / HPI greens
The rear of the car seems to not rotate at all through the turn... the only corner that I would say the car takes nicely is the sweeper - but all of the lower speed turns, the car is very pushy.
Any help would be appreciated! I am trying to stay away from a one way ... if possible
out -Wilde
I am at a complete loss here for a setup... We now have a high traction asphalt track... it is relatively tight, rubber tires... Track size is approx 115x50. In the past the track had mediocre traction at best...
Here's my current setup -
Front -
Shocks - BLue spring, 40wt, 56 piston - mounted in 2 hole
0 degree kick up, 2 degree caster blocks
Camber link... good question
0 toe
-1 camber
Rear -
Shock - Blue spring, 40wt , 55 piston - mounted in 2/outside
0 degree antisquat
Camber link - 1B
Offset 0 degree rear hubs
-1 camber
Battery forward
ackerman forward (I think - at least this was the way I ran it last)
Orion 8x2 - geared 26/128
Losi Alfa
Sorex 32's / HPI greens
The rear of the car seems to not rotate at all through the turn... the only corner that I would say the car takes nicely is the sweeper - but all of the lower speed turns, the car is very pushy.
Any help would be appreciated! I am trying to stay away from a one way ... if possible
out -Wilde
04-02-2003, 10:07 AM
#5788
What caster blocks are you running? And what front suspension block are you running (2f, 0f, 4f)? If you want more turn-in try the 4f block to give you kickup. But that will have less corner-exit steering. 0F will give you less turn in but more corner exit steering. 2F will keep the steering teh same throughout the turn. Running less caster will also give you more low-speed steering.
04-02-2003, 12:32 PM
#5789
Originally posted by Axiom5B
What caster blocks are you running? And what front suspension block are you running (2f, 0f, 4f)? If you want more turn-in try the 4f block to give you kickup. But that will have less corner-exit steering. 0F will give you less turn in but more corner exit steering. 2F will keep the steering teh same throughout the turn. Running less caster will also give you more low-speed steering.
What caster blocks are you running? And what front suspension block are you running (2f, 0f, 4f)? If you want more turn-in try the 4f block to give you kickup. But that will have less corner-exit steering. 0F will give you less turn in but more corner exit steering. 2F will keep the steering teh same throughout the turn. Running less caster will also give you more low-speed steering.
In an answer to your question though - I had on the post that I am running 0 kickup and 2 degree caster blocks
Thank you for the reply though!! Keep it coming!
04-02-2003, 12:58 PM
#5790
Tech Adept
I would suggest running a oneway, but since you are against that. Try more rear antisquat, this will give more turn in and more onpower steering. Also try a shorter rear camber link, i usually run 2-a on asphalt.