stitchy

iTrader: (13)

that's because you didn't get them at SPEEDtech

one-nil

is there a metal gear version of the spec-r gear diff for the ff03? Or even just the inside gears in metal? thx

mr lee

Granted and hence the reason I suggested the standard kit with TRF's

RCmart has the standard Civic VTi @ $109, add the TRF's @ $49 and you have a body as well. The pro is $186 and you still need the body.

I did run the standard plastic spur mount for a while and never had any issues, suppose the key is to get the near perfect mesh. Ali part is not neccessary but does have less slop/movement etc.

Anyway all good, just trying to help like you

superspeed

iTrader: (5)

Body will save breakage of car parts
I have seen people running clear body, actually a lot of people bring their r/c car in at the hobby shop with a clear body, lol.

superspeed

iTrader: (5)

Wow! $109 is below dealer cost for FF03 standard kit, that's a great deal. How fast did you get yours via shipping?

cation3

Just bought an FF03Pro (from SpeedTech....) but the rear axles have more slop than I could imagine! I also purchased a couple of upgrades with it, to include a Tamiya axle shim and spacer sets (aluminum hexs, oiutdrives and rein gear stuff).

I have read this entire thread and digested all I could, but I have apparently missed a few things:

First: what are people doing with the rear? I think I'll need ~2mm per axle to clean up the slop. Or:

Second: What replacement rear axles are recommended? 417 axles - is that what I saw recommended?

Thanks in advance,
-Drew

infokiz

Drew,

Did you remember to put the spacer part # J16 in step 19 on the rear shaft?

44mm or 46mm universals will work. but you need to purchase all the parts seperatly as they do not come in a kit.

mr lee

I didn't, just noticed it and thought I would mention it!

mr lee

Yes you need to remember to install the part as mentioned above to reduce the inward and outward play!

However there is still quite a bit of play and I had to use a good few 5mm shims to reduce it further....I also have 5mm clamp wheel hubs. Only axle you can get as a hop up (if you want to be TC legal) is the M Chassis reinforced free wheel axle set, basically a machined part and thus harder than the kit included stamped out axle. You are still going to have the same play though as it is the same dimensions.

syrss

iTrader: (3)

A newbie question, what would happen if I lock the front ball diff? What's the downside?

TIA,
Ron

boro92

iTrader: (2)

you'd get better straight line and corner exit acceleration at the expense of greatly reduced turn in and wider turning radius for slow speed corners

boro92

iTrader: (2)

Anyone noticing that handling changes drastically once the front tires heat up?
I have my car setup such that it handles optimally when tires are cold...but because the front and rears heat up at such significantly different rates, the rear end gets all squirelly after about 5 mins of driving.

I'm running blue front springs, red rears with a blue rear anti sway bar.
I guess it sounds like I have to try a thinner rear bar...

thoughts?

Roll centers and toe are left stock. Front is running approx 1.5 camber, rear is stock.

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

It sounds as if you have a fair amount of understeer, which is causing the front tires to heat up excessively.
Maybe try a body/wing change, or something in the setup to free the rear up ?

boro92

iTrader: (2)

That's an interesting way of looking at it.
I have lots of off power steering even when the car is cold. The rear end already can rotate nicely. I initially suspected the tire temp differences were due to the car being front driven and having more weight up front.

Are you suggesting to perhaps soften the front, or increase rear stiffness? (it lifts inside rear wheel if pushed hard already!)

junn

iTrader: (5)

Well

TA06 gear diff does not fit in the FF03

It meshes with the next gear but the whole diff is too wide and their is an 8mm gap between the covers

Just thought i would let yall know