cannon

iTrader: (35)

Some information from the TRF201 thread.

The TRF201 buggy uses basically the same gearbox and the weak point has been the idler gear which has self destructed and is of poor quality. You may find this will happen with the FF03 idler gear as well. RW Racing has done a replacement machined plastic idler gear to solve the issue

reenmachine

iTrader: (26)

Tekin FX and silver can.
Yes, super-thin film of shoe goo. the instructions specified rubberized glue vs. CA so I figured there must be a reason. Cushioning?
I'm sure that's true.

NiMo

Beginning to get frustrated with this car.
Handling now very good since going stiffer on springs all round, but .....
ANOTHER BLOWN DIFF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have replaced the Thrust Bearing with old school ball and plates
Replaced the bold and lock nut
Yet STILL it does a sudden undo during a race losing all drive, and needs 2 full turns to do it up again.
Great car, SHIT DIFF
Need to find an aftermarket alternative very soon

I took FTD in 17.5 against 4wd cars but diff gave out driving to the line, wasn't even under any real power which is what's getting me

If I can find one I'd be fitting a spool to the car as diffing out is a major head ache

cannon

iTrader: (35)

AS I have said before this diff is very similar to the ball diff for the M05 and guess what?????? That diff comes undone all the time.

Also this diff in the FF03 is the same ratio as the one in the TRF201 except for two small differences:

* The 201 has the old fashion ball and plates

* It uses the alloy winged nut used in TRF cars instead of the plastic holder and nyloc nut. Food for thought. I am hoping that this works as I built mine with the winged alloy nut straight away. Haven't had time to run it yet though

tamiyarcracer

Is the screw head on the correct side of the car, as per step 3 in the instructions?

cannon

iTrader: (35)

It is not to do with what side it is on. It is the poor quality of nyloc nut used. The M05 does the same thing with its ball diff

tamiyarcracer

I don't have any problems with my M05 diff either.

Like I have mentioned earlier. we had a problem with the TB02 diff, and once we made sure the Thrust bearing was oriented correctly, the problem went away.

You have to think of one thing, it does matter what way the diff is in cause if it is allowed to spin counter clockwise, then there is a change that it will help un-thread. for this reason on full sized cars they use a reverse thread on one side of the car when using a mono nut to hold the wheels on.

cannon

iTrader: (35)

Here in Australia I sell parts etc. To date we have seen virtually every M05 ball diff fail. They are built correctly and placed in the car correctly.

The only ones that have worked are those that have used the TRF alloy winged nut and threadlock on the screw.

I feel that the FF03 diff may have similar problems. It is interesting that the TRF201 guys are not reporting diff failure and their diffs have balls and plates and TRF alloy winged nut

tamiyarcracer

Well, here in the states, I have not seen or head many problems. Not sure what is so different.

Like I said I've seen flipping the thrust bearing over, made a huge difference in the TB02, and that is the only way I build my diffs now.

jebolution

been runnin my FF03 PRO here in Dubai's hot weather almost everyday for two weeks now and i dont have issues with the diff nor the idler gears. i am using the aluminum diff halves and stock shafts. only issue now is my right bottom king pin that keeps coming out during right tight turns. i guess its time to buy the aluminum ones. haayyzzzz...

cannon

iTrader: (35)

Good to hear. Maybe the idler gear is not as suspect in an onroad car as in the offroad buggy

rtypec

iTrader: (2)

The issues that cannon have been mentioning are non-existent in my area as well. Perhaps there is something going on in your local. Statments about substandard parts, materials, design, etc. are not entirely true nor do they reflect what most drivers are experiencing. The "poor quality of nyloc nut" with plastic nut holder have been around for ages and survive the power of 6-cell 3.5 Turn Brushless monsters so they should handle most applications with no trouble.

NiMo

I have tried every possible placement of parts
running old style ball and plates lasted 8 runs before failure, much longer than original thrust bearing.
Have even used Hot Bodies diff bolt and nut/wing unit, but still it gives in.
What puzzles me is that in goes suddenly, and at any power setting.
I am running with the HPI Firebolt motor, this is less punchy than a 17.5 and not quite as fast.
Diff is fine until you want it that little bit tighter then it fails, yet there is no sign of threads stripping or slipping.
Just so annoyed at this diff, rest of car is great.
just wondering if universals and alloy diff cups will cure it?

NiMo

I see at Speedtech they list these shafts for the:
416 series, TA05 IFS/V2, TB03, etc.

Wonder if that includes the FF03 as well?




Also thinking of widening the car, and wonder how wide it would be with X holders in place of the XD holders? or if I need to go wider? (think there is a limit?)

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

you can probably go REALLY wide.. since tamiya does make a 48mm swing shaft. (at one point set ups had D/D up front)

not to mention you can use the old long arms.

(to answer your question.. not sure what the EXACT measurement is in terms of width when you go from XD to X.)