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-   -   1/12 forum (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/37-1-12-forum.html)

rayhuang 02-01-2005 11:56 AM


Originally posted by WVRACER
so is the thickist t-bar from associated the way to go for carpet or is there a different manufacture you guys recomend. i just started with these and i need to stock up on parts



Rob

Power push has a new fiberglass t-bar with more choices in thickness adn there is the thick and thin t-bars from Associated. Nothng wrong with them.

So much in 12th is driver preference. YOu can run a thin t-bar on carpet too. Especially on bumpy or wavy tracks or low grip tracks.

Jay Boyd 02-01-2005 11:58 AM

Powerpush t-plates
 
These are sweet! More thickness choices too. http://www.teampowerpush.com/catalog.html

JohnB 02-01-2005 12:02 PM

Re: Powerpush t-plates
 

Originally posted by Jay Boyd
These are sweet! More thickness choices too. http://www.teampowerpush.com/catalog.html
YES THAY ARE! Get up in the .08 range and it really adds a lot of steering. I haven't tried the rear tweak holes yet, but I imagine that will add even more.

WVRACER 02-01-2005 12:07 PM

Ray i know Tonys stuff is good but is it justified paying the 9.99 vs. the 4.50

also what other parts are needed as in hi replacement stuff

thanks rob

rayhuang 02-01-2005 12:16 PM

This last weekend was weird. Traction was med-high???? It was Ozite-but only Niftech was being used. I had a thick-tbar, silver center spring, Magenta fronts sauced 3/4, CA on the rear Grey tires and that was just about enough steering. A tad too much when the d/r was too high-as i found oout the hard way one run (BANG!!) But this set-up would normally be undriveable for me! I usually run thin t-bar, green spring and Purple front and Pink or big Grey rears in back in med to med high bite.

wvracer-just get a few rebuild kits for your shock, extra fron springs because in a crash or just over time they lose there strength and collapse. Body posts and the black plastic pillow balls in the arms. Those you want to fit snug-but not binding-but definatley not sloppy. Yu might break a lower arm on occasion, but get the lowered arms to get more life out of you tires. You can buy thin washers or shims (IRS has them in different thickness) to space the arms back-up.

Ray

revzalot 02-01-2005 12:32 PM

Cutting the rear axle
 
Has anyone cut a little bit off the rear axle to reduce rotational mass on their l4? If so how much to cut off?

rayhuang 02-01-2005 12:35 PM

Re: Cutting the rear axle
 

Originally posted by revzalot
Has anyone cut a little bit off the rear axle to reduce rotational mass on their l4? If so how much to cut off?
I wouldnt risk damagng the graphite axle. All the weight is in the center-so it takes very little to accelerate it. And trust me-that axle takes some serious abuse-yo dont want to create a stress riser, etc.

Crashby 02-01-2005 12:44 PM


Originally posted by CypressMidWest
Crashby: Link cars were PREVIOUSLY outshone by T-bar cars in Mod, because link cars tend to be more "free" in the middle of the corner, in mod they would sometimes lose rear traction. Your Rev. 4 has been designed to address those issues, and I've watched them equal or better T-bar cars in Mod. At last years Carpet Nats, Jake Pritchard's car looked AMAZING, as did Brian Jucha's. I'm willing to bet that you'll like it every bit as much, if not more, than the Trinity car in Mod.
I agree with you CypressMidWest. Carpet provides the highest grip out of any surface we can race on. Therefore, you would think that the car with the lowest polar moment would out perform any other car with a higher polar moment. But maybe it has more to do with driver skill and the speed difference between stock and mod. Maybe a T bar car feels lazy or neutral in mod because it has a higher polar moment than a link car which in turn makes it easier to drive for the person with average driving skills. Right now I feel like a T bar car would scrub off so much speed in the corners due to their higher polar moment than a link car, that it could not possible be faster but... I could be all wrong. It will be several days before I get the Reflex 12 built and I think I will try softening up my Rev 4 in the meantime to maybe let the weight transfer more to the outside. Make it think it is a T bar car and see what that does. I still firmly believe that a link car should work better than any other car design on carpet. But that is what testing is all about. Just have to be careful about how much driving skill factors into the results of the test and if the driver is more comfortable with a lazy car vs.: an aggressive car.

WVRACER 02-01-2005 12:56 PM

thanks Ray i will stock up. still not shure about the 10 buck t-plates but what the heck i'll give them a try. you would not have suggested them if thay where not good.

i went with the irs lower pod plates and threaded king pins and i got the parma threaded stub axels hope these where good choices.


why do the 12th scales use 1/8th diff balls instead of the 3/32 i use in touring. is there a reason or just a prefference

thanks

rayhuang 02-01-2005 01:23 PM

remember-12th scales came first!! LOoong before Sedans!!

brianrice 02-01-2005 02:01 PM


Where did you purchase the Teflon tape?
Email Bud at BRP, he has some teflon tape. It works great!

StephenSobottka 02-01-2005 02:06 PM

Brian- u making the birds?

revzalot 02-01-2005 03:49 PM

Re: Re: Cutting the rear axle
 

Originally posted by rayhuang
I wouldnt risk damagng the graphite axle. All the weight is in the center-so it takes very little to accelerate it. And trust me-that axle takes some serious abuse-yo dont want to create a stress riser, etc.
Ok thanks. I'll better stop tweaking the L4 and start racing it. :)

Crashby 02-01-2005 05:49 PM

Re: Cutting the rear axle
 

Originally posted by revzalot
Has anyone cut a little bit off the rear axle to reduce rotational mass on their l4? If so how much to cut off?
If you want to take rotational mass out of the rear of your 1/12th you can do the following:

Replace the axle with a hollow Niftech axle.
Replace the diff washers with Niftech Rocket Rings.
Replace the diff balls with ceramic diff balls.
Replace all of the bearings with ceramic bearings.
Replace the wheel screws with titanium wheel screws from Lunsford
Use an IRS left side clamping hub.
Use Parma or TRC wheels as they are the lightest without giving up strength or straightness.

revzalot 02-01-2005 05:59 PM

Re: Re: Cutting the rear axle
 

Originally posted by Crashby
If you want to take rotational mass out of the rear of your 1/12th you can do the following:

Replace the axle with a hollow Niftech axle.
Replace the diff washers with Niftech Rocket Rings.
Replace the diff balls with ceramic diff balls.
Replace all of the bearings with ceramic bearings.
Replace the wheel screws with titanium wheel screws from Lunsford
Use an IRS left side clamping hub.
Use Parma or TRC wheels as they are the lightest without giving up strength or straightness.

I'm starting to like Niftech. Thanks for the info.


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