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Originally posted by Tim Stamper I like the durability of the spring steel plate, but what I didn't like was the consistancy. I run stock with all 3 screws in the t-plate with the medium and medium stiff ss bar and the car was more consistant lap after lap with the fiberglass. I could turn some faster laptimes with the medium-firm bar though. What I also noticed is that I left a couple of spare ones in my glove box and they rusted. That made for an interesting look. It's still up in the air, but I only broke 2 fiberglass t-plates this season so far and the ss plate is around $30. I raced at least 2-3 times a week and practiced 2 days a week so there was a lot of running on those plates. Tim |
Re: Re: Re: 12l4 project completed
Originally posted by revzalot Thanks JD. Yeah the teflon is good stuff. The rear suspension moves much smoother added that I sanded the top plate with 2000 grit sandpaper. Don't go any lower than 2000. |
Re: Re: Re: Re: 12l4 project completed
Originally posted by Hondaguy Where did you purchase the Teflon tape? |
Originally posted by primusblowsgoat revzalot, when you say you blueprinted the rear axle and plates, what does that mean exactly? |
Originally posted by WVRACER came up with another question for you guys. man the more i dig the more i find on these 12th scales spring steel t-plates yes no maybe is there any bennifit to having this option or should one stick with the fiberglass thanks Rob My only knock on spring steel T bars is that I wish I could get one thinner than .070 to soften up the rear of the car more. Even so, I will never run fiberglass T bars again. |
CRC also makes the 2 pod discs (the 2 round black plastic pieces) in white teflon as well. Makes a damn smooth movement. Click on my sig pic of my old YRX-12 and you'll see it. The teflon circle sticker I used for my rear pod plate was made by some company, and it has little dimples on it, so the oil/grease can retain on the sticker/disc better. If you use just flat teflon tape, it works, but after awhile, all the oil/grease disappears.
Dom |
ok one for and one agenst
i run carpet have you ran the ss on carpet and with the same success thanks rob |
Originally posted by WVRACER ok one for and one agenst i run carpet have you ran the ss on carpet and with the same success thanks rob |
I have played with teflon disk a lot lately. They are good to have in your box as a tuning tool. I came this conclusion as far as dampening.
Softest to hardest: Stock disk with 100 wt. oil Teflon disk with Trinity Red Stuff Stock disk with Trinity Red Stuff Of course everything in between with different oil and grease and different weight of springs, but those three combinations seem get me everything I need. They didn't seem any smoother, just changes the dampening. I couldn't use oil with them though. My top plate has holes in it to retain oil, the teflon disk are to small and oil goes everywhere. They are a little smaller than stock. They are fine with grease though. revzalot - if your using double sided tape to put the teflon on that adds some thickness, did you shorten the springs to keep the same spring rate? take care john |
Originally posted by JohnB revzalot - if your using double sided tape to put the teflon on that adds some thickness, did you shorten the springs to keep the same spring rate? take care john |
Originally posted by Crashby No. Not yet as I run a Speed Merchant Rev.4 on carpet but... I am building a Trinity Reflex 12 and I will be running a spring steel T bar on it. My team mates keep telling me that for mod I should run a T bar car so I am building the Reflex 12 to test their theory. Although I am a bit skeptical of their reasons why a T bar car is superior to a link car in mod. But we will see. |
Originally posted by revzalot What about carbon fiber? CF provides great dampening characteristics as fiberglass. I have some cf lying and will give it a try. Doesn't the CRC T-Fource have CF t-plates? Originally posted by Crashby I ran a Silva .071 spring steel T bar in my Yokomo/CRC/IRS hybrid out doors on asphalt all last summer with great results. I rarely had to adjust the tweak and when I did it was just to compensate for uneven tire wear. The problem with the fiberglass T bars is that even though you may not break one, they do begin to loose their memory. Meaning that a fiberglass T bar will not return to center due to the fibers in the fiberglass breaking which can sometimes be seen by a white mark where the T bar makes the transition from the chassis to the motor pod. Most often though there is no outward visible signs of degradation. So determining when to replace a fiberglass T bar becomes a guessing game. Before spring steel T bars came along, I was changing my fiberglass T bar about every 16 runs unless I took a very hard hit at which point I would change it then, even if it wasn't broken. My only knock on spring steel T bars is that I wish I could get one thinner than .070 to soften up the rear of the car more. Even so, I will never run fiberglass T bars again. I actually bent two. I don't know how, but one incident happened right before Cleveland '03. I also bent one real bad before cleveland '04 and this was a medium-firm. I checked my new ones and 2 of them were bent a little right out of the package. Tim |
Originally posted by Tim Stamper I actually bent two. I don't know how, but one incident happened right before Cleveland '03. I also bent one real bad before cleveland '04 and this was a medium-firm. I checked my new ones and 2 of them were bent a little right out of the package. Tim |
Originally posted by CypressMidWest Pesky T-bars......:lol: |
so is the thickist t-bar from associated the way to go for carpet or is there a different manufacture you guys recomend. i just started with these and i need to stock up on parts
Rob |
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