Tire sizes maybe? How far away are your tires from side to side?

Sometimes it's difficult to see the damper tubes binding up.

Maybe you had a piece of rubber lodged under your chassis during the race.

Did you check the tweek of your car before you tore it apart? Sometimes you can take a hard hit and things will shift just enough to put a tweek into the car. Also, as crimson eagle said, check your tire diameter. If you don't rotate your tires regularly one side can wear more than the other and throw the car out of tweek.

-James

When you say very loose on one side, you mean car hooking while turning one way and push turning the other way?

Dom

New axle ride height adjusters
 

IRS just released new axle ride height adjusters. The adjusters are molded from a stiff composite plastic to reduce flex during side loading. The best part is that they come in 0.5mm (~.020") spacing steps. The stock associated adjusters give over 1mm between steps. No more getting stuck between spacer heights when your tires wear... They are packaged and sold as a set of 8 pairs for $9.50 retail.

http://www.teamirsrc.com/images/irs1167.jpg

http://www.teamirsrc.com/podplates.html#rideheight

tire diameter ?

new to the 12th scale what is a good starting diameter

also pinion spur for a very tight track and for a med. track

thanks,
chris

anyone run their 12th on asphalt tracks? im looking for a good tire combination.

These axle / ride height adjusters don't seem to get it for me. The concept is fine but the execution suffers. I have tried several methods to free up the axle but it still rolls tight. The best method so far has been reaming but still is to tight.

I fabricated a pair from carbon fibre sheet and the axle now runs free. I just don't feel like fabbing a full set by hand.

So the big question is, other than the HG's are there any other precision machined adjusters. Or better still a set of bulkheads that have adjustable ride height with no plastic spacers.

And for what it's worth, in regards to the front carbon brace tweaking the chassis, I just enlarged the holes in the carbon at each end. Size was increased a couple of number drill sizes from original.


PK

PMK - The trick is to ream the spacers in the car and at the same time. Use a long reamer that stretches between both spacers while they are mounted in the pod plates. Reaming axle spacers individually may free up the axle, but it usually causes too much slop. I'm sure you could use a 3/8" drill bit if you don't have a straight reamer long enough.

Purple fronts/Pink rears with .018" front springs.
Good luck,
P2

Is that what I'm running P2? If you wouldn't have posted it, I would have never known that.:D

Speed Merchant REV3
 

- yes I usually always rotate the tires frequently.
- no I checked the car after the race, nothing hanging or anything
- It was doing 180's one way, and basically fine the other way other than a little bit of push.

I ripped it down early today and put it all back together a little bit differently;
- Put Corally Hard lube in dampers to stiffen the back end a little bit
- Changed rear springs to harder ones, I think they're .22
- Changed ball cups in steering to make sure it's free
- stiffened the front susp. a bit - running TRC front end

So I'll have to see next Tuesday. Thanks for your help fella's!

Re: Speed Merchant REV3
 

I have had this happen before. It was caused by the batteries moving over to one side and resting on the side link. This unbalanced the car to one side, causing major tweak of the chassis. And the O-Ring didn't come off, either.

Swayze,

Do you use locking diff rings? If not, a slipping diff ring would do that. And minor things to look for are....your wires binding the tubes up? Is one tire rubbing on the body? Do both front wheels rotate freely when you are all the way turned on your steering wheel?

Dom

I got my L4 in the mail today. I can't wait to get it put together and run it. Any tricks I should know about for assembly? I like the way the parts are in seperate lettered bags and the instructions look pretty straight forward.
I've heard two way to mount the electrics to the chassis, double sided tape and sho-goo (?). What's the opinion here on which is better?

Double sided tape always works for me. Clean and degrease both mounting surfaces before applying the tape. Trial-fit before actually installing your electronics. That will save you time and tape.
For tips on the L4 car have a look here:
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/mlufas...2l4/index.html

At the very least put a layer of CA on the edges of the carbon parts to make them last longer.