actually after seeing the new REV4 I know I should of taken a picture. it's got some intersting ideas. looking at an old carpet knife chassis right now and where do I start dremeling:nod: I know frank don't like tape but I don't mind it on my six pack. it's all part of the game. and yes preference does make a difference and I prefer CRC because I don't drive smooth enough in mod to run a link car.

Re: Re: Front tire chatter
 

Springs could be it! I haven't changed those. I do lub the kingpin though. I'll start with springs them maybe a thicker lube on the king pin.

No on the purple tires. Our carpet does not have good traction at all. Green seems to work the best. I've had Pink work pretty good in the front.

take care
john

Robert you and skeeno going to Ktown this weekend?

EA

Doug thanks... I just sent you a email... it went through this time... darn puters:lol:
I just tried your web page and its still down unless I have the wrong address...
http://www.powellracingcomponents.com/
Right?

You have the right address because I clicked the link and it works.

I am thinking of trying a t-bar car though.. if my LHS still has a used L3 I will get it and get the Q12 conversion for it and try it as well...

Re: visualize whirrled peas
 

Oh, I didn't want to force people to take drastic actions like that. You could have just bought another car. T-plate cars have another advantage related to this topic that no one has mentioned. It has to do with that piece of wire that connects the batteries from one side of the t-plate to the other. The link cars don't have this piece of wire. Anyway, that wire is an antenna that is operating with incredible current flow. That antenna is parallel to the racing surface and the direction of the flow sets up a force vector for the field generated in the direction of the carpet. Viola, more force on the tires, therefore, more traction. It is important to note that this wire must be at least 1.5 inches long to work. One could say that the link cars also have the wire between the batteries that span the width of the car, but they are not at least 1/5 inches long. Since they are split into many small sections that are stagered by the length of the battery, the distribution of the downforce from the field is not balanced within the wheel base or the track of the car. How about that:nod: :sneaky: :confused: :cool:

Conversions
 

Im looking for a 4 cell conversion for my 12L3 was looking into the following:-

* IRS Rugrat
* CRC T-Fource

I have been hearing about the PRC Quad 12 but cant find any information about it hopefully some one can provide me some info even some pics. I recently sold my Yoke YRX i want something equally the same performance wise, will be mostly used outdoors. Worst comes to worst ill get a Tech Racing Slits ;) :D :lol:

Re: visualize whirrled peas
 

Uh, dude? He's yanking your chain.

but then....

If you can get the orientation of the batteries and the grain direction on the carbon fiber laid properly, then you can take advantage of the "dark matter" that is the cause for the universe to be expanding at a faster rate rather then slowing down. This entropic effect will make your car actually accelerate through the corner as you begin to apply an angular acceleration during a turn. Bottom line is that if you re - build, or have a custom plate made (I'll charge you $400) you will cut seconds off your lap time.

I also have a bridge to sell....

(Sorry, but I can't resist :lol: )

Re: Re: visualize whirrled peas
 

Oh come on-your so full of cr@p-everyone knows blue graphite is faster than black!!

http://www.powellracingcomponents.com/
otto man i am a team driver for doug powell aswell if you cant get in contact with adam or doug i can reach him for you.

his cnc milling machined flipped out on him and had some calibration issues he has had it corrected and a fresh of the grill quad 12 is on the way for your driving pleasure.

ottoman out of all the companies out there not just because i drive for doug he is probably one of if not thee most trustworthy person(company) in the buisness.

once you have his car will be a quad 12 driver for life just wish a lot more people would see the light. this car is the bomb.

fuk wrx! i like writing that:D fuk wrx here is the link for prchttp://www.powellracingcomponents.com/
if you have a problem contacting doug pm me with you contact numbers and i will contact him personally for you and have him call you. i am one of his drivers and i am here to help.

thanks; Hector

Re: Re: Re: visualize whirrled peas
 

No! Black Rules! :lol:

Was trying to read this thread from page 1 and found something that is confusing me.

Is caster, and reactive caster the same thing? or are they opposites.

Caster is when the top of the kingpin lean towards the rear of the car, right?

Does reactive Caster mean the the top of the kingpin leans towards the front?

also, How far should i thread the tweak screws(evenly) into the T-Plate before I even start checking the tweak? I am afraid that they are not in far enough....

Caster
 

Caster is having the upper arm, ball joint or king pin behind the lower. As you turn your wheels the camber changes more as your caster increases. This can help you in corners keep the front tires flat on the track for best traction.

Reactive caster makes the caster change more as the suspension is compressed. If you have one washer in front and one in back of the upper arm mount your caster is 4 to 2 dagrees. 4 when it is sitting still and 2 when fully compressed. That is why the reactive caster arm mount is on an angle. When you turn, the car transfers weight to the outside wheel which compresses the spring and this decreases caster. This helps in the turn so your tire bites in better. It makes the front end more agressive.

More caster makes it easier to drive straight, Less makes it corner better. With Reactive caster you get the best of both.

Tweak screws should touch the chasis on both sides with almost no preload. If you have to turn one in 1/8 turn, you would have to turn the other one out 1/8.

David Root