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Old 03-03-2004 | 10:25 AM
  #7006  
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From: it's a dry heat
Default HPI conversion kit

anyone tried the HPI conv for the 12L / Yok stlye cars?
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Old 03-03-2004 | 10:34 AM
  #7007  
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got a link?
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Old 03-03-2004 | 03:40 PM
  #7008  
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Cats do not like r/c cars.just an observation
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Old 03-03-2004 | 07:13 PM
  #7009  
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taken from a post the first page:

Tires.. I ran purple fronts size 1.73 I ran pink rears size 1.90 I also used paragon for 15 mins on the tires wiped them off then applied coppertone 45 sun tan lotion until the heat before i was up then wiped dry and much as possible...
Hope this helps you guys
Mike Blackstock



I have to ask, what's the deal with Coppertone SPF 45 after the Paragon?
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Old 03-03-2004 | 07:16 PM
  #7010  
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Originally posted by rayhuang
DavidL and MikeD-some questions for you guys.

I ran a Rug Rat (first T-bar car in 3 or 4 years) and its so different than my Speedmerchant rev3's that I am a bit lost on set-ups. I am used to the quicness in steering feel and on-power / exit steering of the Rev3. What are some of the general changes to be made on the Rat for more steering in general? But-not making it edgy. I hate edgy feeling 12th scales.

Thanks,
Ray
Ray - It sounds like the Gate traction has been a little different lately... The following is where I would start on setup for stock:

Irs front end (10 degree reactive angle, all caster shims foward, .020 springs, 1.5 degrees camber, trinity red stuff lube on king pins), silva spring steel medium-stiff t-plate with 3 pod screws, silva center shock with 40 wt and blue associated spring, tweak screws and no springs on damper tubes, 10,000 Associated silicone in damper tubes, batteries in rear position, 3.5mm ride height, Jaco Grey rears (@ 1.85") and Jaco purple fronts (@ 1.71"), full front and rear compound. I run the servo flat on the chassis with mid-height ball studs on the steering blocks and kimbrough mid-size servo saver. Steering lock at about 4 foot turning circle.

The first changes I would try to the above setup are .075 t-bar and silver center spring. I like the steering of a lot of caster on low traction tracks. A lot of caster cause problems on high traction tracks. I agree with you on car feel - I try to make it steer as much as possible without getting edgy. I hit everything in sight if my car is too aggressive.
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Old 03-03-2004 | 07:20 PM
  #7011  
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Mike-thats a lot of info to process-hahaha!! Thanks!! See ya in a few weeks!!

Ray
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Old 03-03-2004 | 08:29 PM
  #7012  
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Can someone recommend what kind of ratio for a 10t, 15t and a stock 23t motor??
I am running a CRC v3.1
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Old 03-04-2004 | 05:57 AM
  #7013  
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Default Notchy diff

Last night I was re-building my diff with the new ceramic balls I got. Cleaned everything, sanded the diff rings then polished them, lightly lubed the diff balls then put everything back together. Now the diff has a very notchy feel to it. I tore it back apart and put in a new set of steel diff balls. Same thing. tried different bearings, different spurs, different axles (one new CRC big ring diff even), everything and is still feels the same.

Any thoughts?

Blake
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Old 03-04-2004 | 06:16 AM
  #7014  
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Default Notchy Diff

When I rebuild a diff, I take some time and "sneak-up" on the right tension. What I mean is, as I put it together, and start to tighten the diff nut, right when it makes the diff come together, I start turning the wheels making the diff operate. (tires move in opposite direction) I'll do this for about 30-seconds to a minute. Then I'll tighten it up a little more, turn the wheels again. I keep doing thiss till I have what I think is the right amount of pressure on the diff. I was "TOLD" that it's possible to "dent" the diff balls or the diff rings if you just tighten the diff all the way all at once. Weather that is true or not, I don't know, but my diffs go together pretty smooth. Hope this helps.
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Old 03-04-2004 | 06:21 AM
  #7015  
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Would it be possible to dent the ceramic balls? I've re-sanded the faces of the diff plates twice now? Nothing visible there, diff balls look fine as well.
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Old 03-04-2004 | 06:25 AM
  #7016  
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Default notchy diff

blake,
it could be the thrust washers and balls. i have seen them wear out before the main balls/washers
mike lindsay(non 12 scale driver)
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Old 03-04-2004 | 06:27 AM
  #7017  
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Default diff

I'm not sure, I kinda doubt it as I think the hardness of the ceramic is harder then the rings. When I 1st purchased ceramics for my Tc3, I was trying to find diffrings that mached the hardness of the balls. I ended up buying Niftech diff rings and using Acer ceramic balls. I'll be rebuilding my 12th diff this weekend using ceramic balls. I'm waiting for new rings to come in. Where the diff rings you used new?
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Old 03-04-2004 | 06:36 AM
  #7018  
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Yes and no. I had put a new big ring diff from CRC together but hadn't run it yet. I pulled that apart and re-built it with the ceramic balls.
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Old 03-04-2004 | 06:36 AM
  #7019  
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Blake-if you havent changed the bearing thats next to the adjusting nut-then thats most likey your problem as sedanaddict has said. I'd start there.

Ray
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Old 03-04-2004 | 06:39 AM
  #7020  
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Tried 2 different sets of bearings. I'll run up to the shop tonight and try some new ones.
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