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-   -   1/12 forum (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/37-1-12-forum.html)

petenis 02-12-2002 01:35 PM

darnold- I run a 12x2 aurora and a 11x2 fantom Ti, which just plain rips. I don't have that many mods since I am fairly new to the mod scene. For a while I was running a old nasty carpet knife that, well let's just say it had issues or was possesed or something. So I wasn't as worried about the motors and speed as I was the handling. I ditched that thing and am running a rc 12LC now, which is awesome. So now that I've got a car that actually handles like it should, instead of changing tweak every turn I took, it is time to worry about speed. Actually it is past time, because Brustad (ffej) and Mitch wallop me all the time, but that's cause they drive incredibly well, unlike me, I can't seem to stay constistent with a mod yet, it'll come in time, i hope!

back on the mod thing, I have recently been running reedy 733x's I guess they are for single winds though, and 738x's or 728x's I am not sure of the part number. Thanks for your help, i hope I'll see you at the norrca nats! do you know how much the entry fee is. I don't have a norrca membeship either. Thanks

FoamDonuts 02-12-2002 01:56 PM

darnold,
OK I am off to buy the '02 Spaghetti Edition Switchblade!!!!!:) now is the Protoform Speed 8 body as good as Cyrul says it is?
IKE
P.S.Do you know of any on-line places that sell the 02 version?

Dragon Slayer 02-12-2002 03:25 PM

Evening all....1/12 motor question....we are going to start running mod 1/12...i have an 11 double-D4....any suggestions on brushes and springs?????we are running 8 minutes...36' by 60' track...thanks lotsa good info on here.

Dave S 02-12-2002 08:03 PM

Foam Donuts,


My brother Petenis runs a Speed 8 protoform and he seems to like it. I have heard, however, that it lacks some rear downforce. Petenis runs the Gurney lip on there and he said he can notice the difference. Have you by chance seen the Parma version of the Speed 8? I just picked one up this past weekend and it looks like it should be banned, but I heard that they were used with some success in cleveland this year... They look really swoopy, have a real tall rear spoiler with an option to cut out a spot in the middle for less rear downforce. Definately worth a look. I also have a prototform speed 8 but have not tried it yet.

Dave S:weird:

FoamDonuts 02-12-2002 08:40 PM

Dave,
Thanx for the headsup on the bodies. Anyone have any idear where I can buy the new Switchblade online?
IKE

darnold 02-12-2002 09:32 PM

Petenis- Hey how are you doing? Just got back from practice about an hour ago. Concerning your H.P. issues, you probably want to try a 10turn and for that big track up there I geared mine at 24/100 on 1.90" rears (same as 25/100 on 1.85" rears). Mitch can setup an 11turn to run as fast as a 10turn. Brush wise Integy 3%silvers are really good for club racing along with Trinity Dual shunt "e" brushes and Reedy Quasars. Regarding the Kife: Many people don't realize that after every race day or two they should probably take the motor, tweak plate, front tires and rear axle out of the car and re-adjust the side links. This would be done by placing the car on a flat surface and loosening the two nuts on the "football" and then re-tighten them. This makes sure that those one piece links are parallel so that the car can tweak out better. Also, those one piece plastic links should probably be replaced every so often. Since you don't have this car anymore however just remember to change the T-bar out once a month or so and if the car ever starts to handle badly check either the T-bar (look for "stress" marks around the T part) or a bent front axle or King pin.

darnold 02-12-2002 09:36 PM

Foams- To my knowledge, could be wrong, Josh runs the Parma Speed 8 body and not the Protoform one although I think he has tried the Protoform one already. I just switched from the standar Protoform P35 to the Parma Speed 8 and there is a HUGE difference. The Speed 8 turns-in noticably better but the car feels more planted than the Protoform P35 does. The results thus far for me are more consistent lap times and the car is a little easier to drive because it is more consistent in how it handles.

darnold 02-12-2002 09:41 PM

Foams- Try www.venturehobbies.com (they own my local track here in Illinois). At the track they just brought in a new 02 Trinity TONIGHT! It was $189 I believe and their phone number is on the site if you can't find the car to order. I think they would be able to accomodate a phone order if need be.

darnold 02-12-2002 09:44 PM

Dragon S- Try Integy 3% silvers or ASQ's, Trinity "e" brushes for mods or Reedy Quasars. Green Spings with 12deg timing.

Dragon Slayer 02-13-2002 03:32 PM

Darnold...thanks

Rick Vessell 02-13-2002 05:27 PM

Hey Dave,

Yep, looking forward to Indy. I haven't run full mod yet, just 19T. I'm going to step it up this coming week though. I need some track time before Indy to get my "finger" sorted out. I have my 12L3 setup fairly stiff, .022 front springs, .075 t-bar, 35wt oil, red spring, light Hydra on the pucks. The car turns in pretty hard and carries lots of corner speed with the heavier front springs.

Dragon, how much motor were you thinking of running? I've got some major horsepower and would like to get used to it.

darnold 02-13-2002 05:28 PM

So, how is everyone's 12th scale racing going? How fast is everyone compared to the local hotshoe? Has anyone other than Johnny Sako been to any of the U.S. Triple Crown Series races and if so what did you think of them and the competion?

darnold 02-13-2002 05:37 PM

.22 front springs! Wow I can't get my car to turn enough with them that's why I use .20's. How much of the front tire are you doping? BTW what's the "mad" hp you have? Is it a Ti or P94? Have you or anyone else tried these and what do you think of them? Oh, Sako, when do you plan to go to Indy for practice? Maybe we can coordinate and run some mod up there because my understanding from them is that if you don't have at least 5 people for a class they won't run it during their normal club racing dates so we may want to show up to one of their open practice dates.

FoamDonuts 02-13-2002 06:04 PM

darnold,
got my 02 SB on the way, I need a setup for it on Ozite 4-cell mod. Most likely I will end up using one of my TI double motors. I also need an idea on what diameter to turn my tires down and some gearing help. My track is fairly open and flowing with an 85ft straight. What compound as well would help me a ton. I am going with the PROTOFORM Speed 8 body just because it is readily available. Thank you in advance for your help. BTW what speedo are you using? I am thinking of going with the Quantum since I am only pushing around a 1/12 scale and not a big heavy TC.
IKE

darnold 02-13-2002 06:29 PM

Foams- Here's my setup If you want it for my 02 Trinity.
4deg Caster, .20 front springs, Trinity Red Stuff in the front pivot balls (4 total). -2deg camber. One .010" spacer under the steering block and .035"-.040" spacer on top of the steering block. No washers behind the front wheels on the axle. Chuck the kingpins in a dremel and spin them for 2sec in the steering blks to smooth things out. You may have to take a reamer like I did and slightly ream out the bottom and top arms so that the pivot balls move freely but aren't loose. Locate the linkage ball studs on the inner hole for the front and outer hole for the rear(front is towards the body post). I am using the Tall ball stud (.390") in the front holes for a high roll center and the medium ball studs (.380")in the rear holes with a .050" shim under each rear ball stud for some reactive caster.

Make sure you get a Thick T-bar either an Associated .075" or the Trinity .074". If you use the Assoc. you will have to use their cups and maybe their balls as well. I put a .014" shim under the rear T-bar ball and a .020" shim under the front T-bar ball. This keeps the T-bar from hitting the chassis and the slight angle gives a little more turn-in. I use Trinity Red Stuff in the damper tube ala Cyrul. You can also try Losi Hydra Light and see what you think. Make sure the dampers move freely in the tubes, one of mine didn't and it took some time to fix it during assembly. I use 3 screws in the T-bar along with a fiberglass spacer (.070" thick) that Assoc used to sell seperate for$2. You can use an old T-bar that you cut off or the 3 plastic spacers in the kit.


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